I think I have found the problem of found this on a forum
've got the ESC running on my ignition tester. I can't go past 5000 RPM so don't know how much it retards or even advance again. Need an other trigger wheel (double). I'm also missing the water temp sensor (air is connected). I could not turn it out of the car or it would loose all the water (I'm an honest thief) I've not been writing down every degree advance/RPM yet but have some basic idea of max advance and where it start and end. From what I've seen here is that this advance curve is far from realistic for a Zetec engine. I'm not saying it will not run but sure incorrect advance. The max advance came in to late (between 4 and 5000 RPM) and is approx 28° + the static advance at idle (which I don't know but if the trigger is set at 90° first teeth after missing (falling edge)) then the static advance at idle will be approx 10°. So total advance will be 38° and that sound a lot to me. But you can get it lower with tweaking the temp sensor and playing with the wires 6 and 7. But you also lower the advance where it is already to low!!!! Problem!!!!!What more I can say is that it does response more than a little to the air temp sensor and you can see it take some time so there is a real ECU that calculate the advance. If you take out the temp sensor it slowly react with taking out some degrees (takes about 4 or 5 seconds). Not a fixed number, it depend on the RPM it is running how much he is taking out. Cutting the wire 6 -7 made no different at all ( that's why there is no info given, it does not matter) but if you ground them one by one or both together there is a different advance (retard in all situations and in the case of n° 7 only, lots of retard). I need to fit potentiometers first to replace the temp sensors and simulate the temp I want. Than I can start taking realistic advance data but if the advance can not come in sooner and you can't stop it from over advancing your Zetec at the higher revs I never believe this is the right ignition. Than I would rather prefer the EDIS running fixed ad 10° and readjust your trigger wheel on the crankshaft until you got your right maximum advance (I know, not easy when the trigger wheel is in the engine). Running it fixed is also not OK but for races it will be better than nothing.