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1300 x flow ignition woes

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Hi guys,

I've a fiesta with a 1300 xflow in it and electric ignition.

Worked fine, then all of the sudden its stopped sparking.

 

All the cables are pushed home, ive tried another coil. There is no spark from the coil or from the dizzy.

Where does the coil get its + feed from?

 

All the fuses look fine - very annoying.

 

Jon

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What sort of electric ign is fitted i had this a couple of years back the electric ign module just gave up on me. also another time i had a Rotar Arm fail and go open Circuit both resulted in no spark.

Have you tried connecting a plug lead into the coil and checking a spark is coming out of the coil to the dizzy cap

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Hi,

 

Tried dropping the king lead on the a plug - no spark when grounded on the shell.

 

86bf12100Ba is the dizzy

1 227 002 017 is on the side of the dizzy unit module

 

 

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dizzy cap is fine as is the rotor. car turns over fine but no spark at all :()

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Some images.

 

What is the green and black wire, is it important - it was floating about the engine bay

The male spade on the dizzy body - is this important to have something connected to?

IMG_20171123_122235.jpg

IMG_20171123_122155.jpg

IMG_20171123_122229.jpg

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The green and white wire could have been for auto choke, the spade on side of dizzy only an earth. You should have a feed to coil on plus side and from memory you should also have a feed to one of the wires on the module plug. Did used to be a favourite for the module to go down causing loss of spark.

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Thanks mate.

The coiil + when the ignition is on, is not getting anything.

I'm assuming this should have 12v at the coil+?

This to me would suggest a problem elsewhere, fuses all look to be fine. Starter kicks over properly with the key.

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Had a quick look round the net to try and refresh my memory, should be three wires to module 1) earth 2) + coil  3) - coil so theoretically you should be able to put a 12v supply to + on coil and should start if so then it's from there to switch which has a break its then just a case of tracing wire back.

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Hi, thanks!


I kind of assume that but when I tried to out 12v to the coil it didn't seem to help.

I guess I could disconnect the 12 v feed from the ignition and try direct from the battery only.

Anything else I can try please?

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Have you got everything else working ? If I remember correctly there are two red wires on the battery one is supply from battery to starter and the other thinner wire is feed for ign feed ( fuse box )

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2 hours ago, colr6 said:

Have you got everything else working ? If I remember correctly there are two red wires on the battery one is supply from battery to starter and the other thinner wire is feed for ign feed ( fuse box )

colin, the thin red wire goes into the loom and becomes a fused link wire that joins to the alternator, and up to the ignition, if the fuse link blows or is missing like it is on an autosparks loom, the engine will turn over but will not fire

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13 minutes ago, Ray said:

colin, the thin red wire goes into the loom and becomes a fused link wire that joins to the alternator, and up to the ignition, if the fuse link blows or is missing like it is on an autosparks loom, the engine will turn over but will not fire

Thanks for that info Ray, my memory gets a thin seeing its 20 something years since I had to do any fault finding !

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Thanks chaps. Where on the alternator woukdnthisbread wire go to please?

 

Still, to confirm when ignition is on I should be getting 12v at the positive side of the coil?

 

Cheers!

 

Jon

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Hi Jon, you should have 12v on coil, can't see it having a ballast on electronic but coil will tell you that should be marked 9 or 12v which wire are you referring to on alternator ?

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the wire goes from the battery into the loom, it then connects / soldered to a brown fuse wire (its marked as fuse wire once you have undone the loom tape) that in turn connects to the wire running from the alternator to the ignition via a crimped and soldered joint

for test purposes, the alternator should have a constant 12 volt supply at the back, regardless of ignition position

other thing to check is, on mk1 fiesta, plugged into the loom is a ballast resistor wire, if this breaks, breaks down or fails, again you will loose the positive feed to the coil

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2 minutes ago, colr6 said:

Hi Jon, you should have 12v on coil, can't see it having a ballast on electronic but coil will tell you that should be marked 9 or 12v which wire are you referring to on alternator ?

my wifes old MK1 fiesta, had a ballast resistor, and that was always failing, whether you do away with it on an aftermarket electronic ignition I know not, if i remember, it was plugged into the loom on the offside inner wing round to the front panel, but was left as an external grey wire rather than tucked into the loom, it was quite long and folded round due to its length from memory

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Just now, Ray said:

my wifes old MK1 fiesta, had a ballast resistor, and that was always failing, whether you do away with it on an aftermarket electronic ignition I know not, if i remember, it was plugged into the loom on the offside inner wing round to the front panel, but was left as an external grey wire rather than tucked into the loom, it was quite long and folded round due to its length from memory

it was just connected by the typical ford grey bullet connectors

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11 minutes ago, Ray said:

it was just connected by the typical ford grey bullet connectors

If you 'hot' wire the coil with a 12v feed from another source it should start if all past coil is ok. As on starting its supplied with 12 v even on a ballast system then returns to a 9v through ballast on running when you return key to ign only position.

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Hi guys,

So spent the weekend working on this and I can't work it out at all.

Tried another coil, though the one ive tried im note sure if its any good.

I'm getting spark at all plugs- the timing is about right firing as no1 comes right up to the top on compression.

the coil, weirdly is getting 12v on the - side?! - what the hell.

 

Does anyone have an old points set, coil, dizzy etc that I can borrow/buy to put the car back to basics and get it to try and run?

 

Thanks,

 

Jon

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