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Everything posted by Sultzi

  1. Thank you! Here is couple videos from Dyno a while back, redline at 8500rpm https://youtu.be/6QusQE4j6T4 https://youtu.be/1XdPPHzyR4Y
  2. Finished hammering the hole edges, they came out pretty good, i'm not an bodywork guy at all. Some finishing touches before paint. Friend of mine did come and paint this, i'm not so keen on painting (I can do it tought, and pretty decent quality also, but he likes this kind of stuff to do, so better this way). In the end this is success for me, like I said i'm not a bodywork guy and it was little bit intimitating to start cut that front valance.
  3. Okay, made small progress (been just lazy) Got those support brackets for the throttle linkages machined from aluminium. At the same time adjusted each butterfly mechanically as close of each other as possibly (little bit tricky with these atpower bodies) Got some "MOT" mufflers to get the noice down to an reasonable level for the inspector. These are just some dynomax superturbo mufflers, ugly as hell and restrictive also. Just welded them on the car with mig, no need for any better. Black paint was needed to get them look little bit nicer (ugly still) Started to make a vent holes in the front valance, to help radiator and mainly two electric fans to get more air and be more efficient. Copied the style from escort mk1 front valance holes. I was bit nervous cutting this NOS replacement front panel, but this was needed. It's now roughly cutted and then hammered to shape. Made a jig from plate steel which I then used to hammer against. Came out pretty good. Still need to finish the angle of the lip and continue that center "support" lips upwards more.
  4. Yeah, that launch video is from v6 twinturbo days (if you meant actual launch control testing). Or this v8 first start vid? 🥴
  5. There is couple videos in the previous page
  6. Thank you sir Small updates for this. Did take the gearbox off the car in October to be sent to Quaife for their assembly mistake repair. Got the box back in December, took a bit long time because they didn't have the part in stock and manufacturing it did take a long time. But main thing is that I have the box now and it's as it should have been from day 1. Did throw the box back in place and made small correction with prop shaft front cv-joint. I had mounted it backwards (oops) and it was missing end cup (i didn't find it at the time). Hopefully grease will now stay better inside the joint than earlier. Main reason was that the joint isn't same size on both sides, so the boot cup was bigger than the joint itself -> grease came out in between. Hopefully fixed oil breather problem with the box, added bottle and breather filter to it. Seems to be known problem with these gearboxes to leak oil from the original breather cap (screw on) Made couple upgrades for the throttle linkages. Replaced those old loose ball joints with m5 rose joints. Made couple adjustments for the linkage and their angles to get more linear torque needed to turn the throttles. Hopefully this helps with DBW calibration and also blade calibration between the banks. Second problem with the linkages is that there is no support in the middle. This does make the shaft flex before it starts to turn. I designed small bracket which will be bolted next to the lever and has 8x16 roller bearings in them. This should also help with the DBW. Added some Redline fuel additive to protect injectors and fuel pump during this winter when car is not going to be used. Did run the engine little bit to get the additive through the injectors. After this I did loosen up rocker arms to let all the springs come to installed height (just to make sure not to give any more stress to them during winter). Also retorqued the intake manifold when valve covers where off, it was pretty loose after several heat cycles.
  7. Hi, Thank you for guys for the positive comments, nice to hear 😎 Yeah, 4.88 mostly because did find one second hand for reasonable price and I wanted to use that expensive gearbox and it's ability to shift fast. But also that Windsor is pretty revvy engine when you look it dimensions. Hoping peak power to be over 8000rpm, we will see.
  8. Then some engine building. Due some wrong information on piston manufacturers site, compression ratio is only around +13:1. And finally time to put it where it belongs. Exhaust is made from 3" stainless with x-pipe and Spintech "mufflers" (yes, they are loud) Some oil pressure priming before closing the engine with freshly painted valve covers. Needed to print mounting plate for the air filter, this is just prototype made from PETG which isn't good for all the heat. And runout of filament around 80% done after 3days, that was fun So made plate from steel for the filter to mount. And this is what the engine bay looks finished pretty much, I do like it afterall that filter blocks all that itb goodness.. Back on it's wheels and outside from the garage to get it washed after couple years. Looking nice still Then couple short videos, first one is from the startup only with headers so it was little bit loud https://youtu.be/OqRsdwkHsHs This second one is just idling finally out the garage ready for some testing and tuning. https://youtu.be/JVRoR-2p8VQ I did drive with the car around 200-300km this year, but due some transmission problems I didn't have time to dyno the car. Basically the transmission (Quaife 69G, brand new, just unused from 2013) had wrong shifter drum (for 2 overdrives, this box only has one) so the gears where not in order. So first was actually third, and second is the first. Third is second and fourth is fifth. Fifth is fourth and six is six. I did manage to drive it after I memorized the order:banana: At the moment the box is at Quaife, they did confirm that is was their mistake from the pictures I did send them (also from the sealed tag to confirm I haven't opened the box earlier). Here is couple pics inside the tranny, that front part of the shifter drum is the wrong part for this box. I was pretty upset at the time, when you pay this much money for gearbox and then they clearly been slacking with quality control on the assembly line. But they are fixing the mistake, that's the most important thing. So the car is sitting and waiting at the moment, so probably next spring is the dyno time and we will see what it does really.
  9. So it's been a while from last update, sorry guys. But here is short summary with some pictures and videos of the car :) Last pics did show some front control arm fabrication, they are finished and all painted and also the front subframe has been blasted and repainted after some modifications. Did also put new steering rack because the old one was leaking and didn't find correct repair kit for it. I did redo all the car wiring using local made PDM style distribution boxes, made by SPLeinonen. Basically I have one master unit under the dash and then there is two slave units, one in front and one in the trunk (these talk via can interface). They do replace mostly all the fuses and relays, I only have couple bigger fuses at the battery for the boxes, power steering, brake booster, water pump pwm module and starter solenoid. Here is couple pictures from wiring the car which was a mess time to time :D Engine management is Maxxecu Pro. Also did wire in couple speed sensors, one in front and one in the rear end (just needed to add reluctor ring for that lock unit). At the same time I did change gear ratio from 3.54 to 4.88. Some of the first tests with the wiring, luckily all went pretty straight forward regardles the amount of sensors etc. I did put an std block and head engine together and it was already in the car when I did find out I was leaking coolant somewhere (first time pouring fluids in). Problem was finally that I had ported some of the intake ports too much and water was leaking to the intake ports :doh: I was little confused when I saw water dripling down from itb's on to the intake manifold and behold there was water over the butterfly already :lmao: So after this I decided to make the real engine straight away. So Dart SHP block and RHS aluminium cylinder heads etc. First thing was to make some headers from 48.3x1.6mm stainless tubing. It was very tricky due some space limits between the engine and chassis (+starter motor, steering shaft and so on). But they came out pretty good, we did spend alot time with my friend fabricating these and welding them (back purged also). Lastly they went to get some coating on them (inside and out) with Cerakote. They also have 8x egt sensors welded right next to the heads. Only way to get the engine installed, is with headers and clutch bell already on the engine. Next up was the get the engine bay painted after couple modifications to the rails etc.
  10. Hi guys, been a while from last update. Some intresting things happened, sold the old v6 engine and also the bmw gs6-53dz gearbox. To replace these I bought stock sbf 302cid from truck (f-150 probably or a bronco) and gearbox will be that quaife 69g (quaife makes bellhousing to fit 302 ford motor) which I have own for couple years already (just been sitting in my bedroom all this time) Don't worry, this std motor will be only used to get the car pass the inspection for bigger engine, because now I can use australian 4.1l model as a reference car. With that I can put 189,3hp engine with max capacity of 5111,25cc in the car legaly, which windsor 302 fits perfectly. Plan for the motor after inspection is: -Dart SHP block -RHS 205cc heads with 2.02" inlet valves and 1.6" exhaust valves. Will port these slightly -8x2" itb with jenvey dbw servo -stainless headers (will be making these by myself), 48,3mm pipe -Ross high compression pistons -Autoverdi connecting rods -Custom Bryant Racing lightweight crankshaft with smaller 2.0" rod journals -Jesel belt drive for the camshaft -Peterson fluid systems external r4 wet sump pump -Twin disc quarter master 7.25" clutch -Lightweight flywheel for the combo -Quaife 69G sequential transmission And so on.. Plan is the rev the engine to 9000rpm to get some sound out of it Here well be pictures, a lot of them indeed. Donor engine RHS heads and valve covers Peterson fluids r4 pump and remote filter leg and their drive system for the ati damper The chinese made itb and manifold Jenvey dbw servo for the itb's Jesel Belt Drive Camshaft sensor to replace that ugly distributor LS coils Trigger wheel for the crank Quarter master clutch Ross pistons, these will give compression ratio around 14-14,5:1 with those rhs 58cc heads Flywheel, around 4,8kg with starter ring Siemens Deka 668cc injectors, e85 compatible (will be running only e85) Some billet stainless steel collectors for 48,3mm pipe with 3" v-band outlet, made by Elmer Racing here in Finland. Some bended 304 stainless 48,3mm tube for the headers, two different radiuses Custom radiator core, size is 450mm x 600mm x 88mm and top of the core is 18fpi and lower part 14fpi. This is because lower part of the core don't get any straight airflow and smaller density core passes air more easily than top of the core which has higher density core to get more heat out where is straight air flow. Bell housing for the quaife and ford 302 engine Trial fitted block and oil pan to the enginebay and noticed that I need to get the engine lower. So modified rack mounting points to get it around 20mm lower. And this gives problems with bumpsteering, so this will be sorted with cromoly tie rods and bumbsteer kit. Then I thought why not make new lower and upper control arms too from cromoly and put some gaz gold coilovers to the front. And then this means i can cut those original bumbstops out of the way and make the front axle more "pretty" looking.. Now with modified front axle the engine sits lower and I was able to fit that nice quaife 69g behind the engine. Just needed little cutting from the tunnel, nothing major (already made it bigger last time for the zf gs6-53dz box). Now I can make engine and tranny mounts. Engine mounts and gearbox mount So plan is to use petersons external oil pump so needed to make solid wet sump pan, bought moroso one and modified it to fit this car (should have made the pan completely from scratch) Mounted Intake on Needs shorter trumpets to clear the hood Exhaust collectors in place Started to make transitions for the header flanges from square to round pipe. Firstly I bought small wise and welded plate with same opening that exhaust flanges have. The wise worked perfectly After all 8 where done friend of mine did some tig welding (all are stainless) and finally we sanded them flat and grinded inside of them to look nice. Here are the lower control arms been made Upper control arms Lower and upper arms done and ready for mockup Progress have been slow due some house renovation at the moment, but maybe next summer I will get the car inspected with the std motor
  11. Yes there is bmw clutch slave cylinder pushing that sierra/scorpio/cosworth style abs cylinder (without the abs of course). Just made bracket to hold them together:
  12. Friend of mine did call at wednesday that they would need a car asap to a car show which was taken that weekend. So I decided to back him up and bring my car there, because the another car did cancel just before the show, so they where in bad spot.. Here is the pic when we got the cars inside and placed where we wanted them to be Random pic from driving around last night..
  13. Rolled the arches little bit, still need to buy 225/45x15 r888 to the rear to see how much more is needed. Also have been working with the head too. Bought 1mm bigger supertech valves and started to port the head too from inlet manifold and exhaust faces. Local head guru will be doing valve seats and openings, just need to buy camshafts etc for him to do valve lash adjustment at the same time too.. After that it's pretty much done. Friend of mine did weld that egr takeoff shut.
  14. Hooked laptop to the ecu and drove with my friend so we could adjust all the cruising cells at the maps to leaner. They were pretty rich after dyno, different thing to drive to downhill, uphill or level road with same tps and rpm. So we made adjustments to map correction table to get those most used cruise cells leaner, so after this I made the closed loop control to work. Maybe I get little bit smaller mileage with the tank Also finally made ball valve bottom of the breather tank, so draining it is now much easier than earlier. I always needed to take the wheel and inner fender out to open plug at the bottom of the tank. Now i just open this little hatch to open the valve and breather drains through small hose which is routed down between the fender.
  15. Thank you This is how the car looks at the moment
  16. Hi. Update on this, i have now changed new turbos and have made 2-piece propshaft. Its now at the balancing Shop. Did try at the same time when i made the propshaft what would the car sound with only open downpipes -> Made me think again To add some cutouts to the exhaust
  17. Thanks. Haven't been doing much with this, but started to port the head by myself. Will be intresting to see how far I can push it.. And prototype water inlet made
  18. Problem solved with new Cherry made hall sensor. Car is now resting over winter, new turbos are arrived and also bmw propshaft too. Will update those in the spring first thing before driving more. Small soundcheck before putting to rest. Launch at 5000rpm and normal limiter at 7200rpm. Sounds pretty nice I think
  19. All sierra abs versions and Scorpio too. Very simple and seems to give very nice brakes (not the best feel, but powerfull). I have 0.75" master and slave cylinders for the primary side, seems to work nicely. We can continue via pm if you want more info in finnish.
  20. I did it like this And sierra booster to trunk Do you write in any finnish forum miska?
  21. Thank you all, nice to finally drive again. Today car is inspected again for full year Nope, too low. But main thing now is that engine itself works perfectly. Bigger turbo's are now ordered and will dyno with them again at spring time. Then well see what kind of figures it really pushes out Also will update that driveshaft to 2pieces to get critical speed high enough for highspeed passes (haha ).. Signal wires are rfi protected, original haltech flying leads. And some wires I have had before without any issues. Will change sensor next and look if something need to be done for the mount (which is same as last setup had without any problems)..
  22. So, today was dynoday and engine itself works beatifully, no problems with leaking head gaskets anymore. Just some mysterious rpm signal lost at 5600rpm. Will need to try with another sensor if it helps. Last time in the dyno it worked without any problems all the way to redline 7200rpm. But results measured to 5600rpm and from rear wheels are 338hp and 458nm at 0,8bar of boost. With 11% loss engine power would be around 375hp (we didn't measure losses in these runs because of that rpm signal loss problem..)
  23. Nice, thank you for all the kind words! Car have been dynotuned now for off boost areas without boost pipes. It made 174hp at the crank and over 220nm. Small tuning where also made with spring pressure (0,6bar) all the way to 4000rpm where it started to push little bit coolant out from the expansion tank, so we stopped the tuning at that time. I decided to take the heads of to see what is the problem and see how the o-rings crushed to the head gasket. Biggest problem was that I didn't retorque head studs after few heat cycles, all where loose, turned maybe 10 to 20 degrees with same torque setting without opening nuts. Engine is now assembled back with new head gaskets and mopar head glue to help with the seal. I have now also retorqued the studs after heat cycle, all of them turned pretty much more. Need to check them maybe again after few heat cycles. Those o-rings make it hard to get right torque instantly. Next week back to the dyno to see the results Oh, also ordered new turbos because these what I have now are leaking oil through the seals.. But will go to make baseline tuning and we'll see what the changes are with the new turbo's They are garrett gt2860rs (discopotato) with ar .86 turbine housings. Car washed and idling again..
  24. Had 16" steelies with original steel caps on my w123 merc, they were spot on. 8,5" wide in front and 11" rear. Ok, not osf, but old school anyway
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