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  2. Xp197777
    Watched a couple Steve ,love the GT70 concept ,watch some more tonight
  3. Today
  4. Rally Pack 2000
    Thanks Ray. The poor idling and stuttering acceleration are exactly what I experienced with the DGV version I tried a number of years back. I thought getting rid of the auto choke would be better at the time but I got a host of other problems instead. I put it either down to quality or the fact that it has no anti stall device that was somehow affecting idle and the stutter. I was assured that this was more an emissions required device rather then needed for smooth running but I could never get it to run smooth and that was with all standard the jetting out of an original that had just come off the car so there was absolutely no difference to the jetting Spanish one clearly without anti-stall device An Original with anti-stall device Clearly the place where the anti-stall device goes is still in the casting but I don't think they can be made operational as the place for the vacuum pipe is completely filled in and I would guess the fuel galleries for the pump itself haven't been opened up either. The Standard fuel return is also a bit bizarre on the originals but that doesn't bother me too much compared to the Spanish ones as you can see the original has a feul return that sticks straight out whereas the Spanish ones are angled down. The extra bizarre part is that you can see there is provision for the return line outlet could have been angled down if they had wanted it too. I never understood what that was about! The other brass outlet that you see there in the images is probably one that you guys haven't seen before. That was for the Australian emission devices to be attached so that can be removed and blocked now. By the sounds Ray of Im going to have to find someone competent to rebuild this thing with a host of new parts like you did. I'm annoyed the one on the car with the sticking secondary problem wasn't picked up when I had it done professionally. The one that was swapped off the car in the pictures above its secondary is still smooth as silk and you can barely feel it when the secondary engages.
  5. Ray
    absolute junk mate, steer clear, fitted 3 of the 32/36 for the 1300GT, all 3 suffered the same problems, poor idling, stuttering acceleration and lack of power, in all 3 cases the answer was to revert back to the original carb after re building with new webcon parts, this cured the problems, making no doubt that the new ones are no good, after contacting the supplier, he admitted that the new carbs weren't tested on escorts, they were tested n Toyotas, and then jetted slightly different for the ford, but no tests carried out, as the mods were not done by weber, and they would need setting upon dyno to the car, he promised me the money back on all 3, but refused on 2 because the original ford washers had marked the bodies they look nice, but that's as far as the niceties go
  6. Rally Pack 2000
    After a box full of old 32/36 DGAV I have been tinkering with to keep an original Weber on the car I decided through another thread to just bite the bullet and get a new one. I would have done this previously as the there were previous doubles on the quality of the Spanish made ones. Myself included as I tried a manual choke one that would never idle properly a number of years ago. Having just spoken to the Australian importer of them he did admit to some quality issues with the early transfer to Spain but now that's a thing of the past. So I thought I would open a discussion how people have found them? Im specifically curious about 32/36 replacements naturally but more than happy for this to be a broader discussion about all types and Spanish Webers in general. So what have you guys tried and what do you think? I noticed some design differences between the original ones that came on the Escort and the Spanish ones for sale now and will post some images. (such as the fuel return being in a slightly different spot)
  7. Steve Saxty started following New Ford design videos
  8. Steve Saxty
    Hi there. I've just emerged from spending two years writing a book on classic Fords of the 70s, 80s and 90s. It's been exhausting but it has been awarded Book of The Month in the world's two most prestigious car mags, C&SC and Octane last month. Not bad for a book on Ford in that rarified world. I've just had time to start uploading some of the book's material that I intend sharing here. First up - videos. This link has six videos for each decade of Ford design. If, like me, you're into the artistry of design and love seeing Ford's original sketches of the cars back in the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s then sit back enjoy. I spent hours making these (well my wife did) and they are great fun to watch. I hope you enjoy them! Steve
  9. Rally Pack 2000
    Remembered I had some of this in the shed I bought for dodgy seat runner. It definitely helped being alot thicker. Stains like copperslip though only silver. It gets everywhere! lol Definitely an improvement but the issue still there but this will tide me over until a new carburettor comes up for sale. As mentioned above its possibly the secondary throttle control lever (That's number 86 on your exploded diagram) it seems to stick but cant tell if that's from the shaft its connected too or its slide has a wear notch in it. Annoyed that it wasn't picked up by a so called carburettor specialist the one time I go to one, it was for that reason to pick up any little issues I hadn't considered before when I used to simply put a kit through it which apart from a sonic clean is all I think he did as well. Classic Carbs in the UK seems to sell the Spanish 32/36 DGAV with the proper water choke (not electronic), anyone tried these with their Pinto's?
  10. Yesterday
  11. notenoughtime
    No chance then, like col said tbh no gain will be experienced anyway
  12. colr6
    A couple of things could do it if lube on external linkage doesn’t cure it. Hopefully and exploded view will help with explanation 🤞 bushes 20 binding on throttle spindles ( worn oval ) and grabbing on spindle at one point. linkage no 82 the pin has a groove worn in it on the lower part of it and nipping linkage 86 the carb really needs stripping to make sure each butterfly opens easily independently. If once connected back together it’s either the linkage between the two 82/86 causing the problem or with the pressure exerted by the linkage could be causing either spindle to nip in bush 20. You may be thinking its no two choke causing the problem but the pressure to open choke two on choke one spindle could be the culprit. Hope your getting my drift.
  13. Elphick started following Mk5 Cortina Rear Axle upgrade
  14. Elphick
    Evening All. My Mk5 cortina estate running Rover V8 what are my options for the rear axle upgrade. Would I be better off leaving it standard and doing a disc conversion or upgrade complete rear axle - if so what too?? Any help appreciated.
  15. notenoughtime
    Maybe take the linkage off and check for roughness where they slide together sounds like the issue
  16. Rally Pack 2000
    I did try some spay on lithium grease which helped a bit at first then went back to being notchy. Will try something thicker before taking the whole thing off again may get lucky.
  17. Rally Pack 2000
    I just tried having a closer look, Its not choke or butterfly related, its difficult to tell for sure being at the back but there is a sticking down in the secondary shaft or possibly there is a wear notch in the secondary throttle control lever. I had a box full of these and this one seemed the best but its not right either as it seems. I would get a new one but had issues with a Spanish Made manual choke one that would never idle properly. So have stuck to the old Italian stuff ever since. I will whip it off and try swapping the lever over for one of my spares and see if that makes a difference. If anyone sees an original Italian made 32/36 DGAV in a box let me know.
  18. colr6
    If you look in the Venturi around the second choke butterfly area when shut, is there any evidence of it scraping on one side? It maybe the butterfly needs centralising. if it’s on auto choke set up try disconnecting the choke mechanism levers to eliminate that.
  19. notenoughtime
    Have you greased the linkage part on the outside, not with wd40 but proper grease
  20. notenoughtime
    5/8 if tank is 2 metres or less from pump or 3/4 if in boot etc
  21. Rally Pack 2000
    Over the years I have been noticing a really substantial notch when engaging the 2nd throat of the standard Weber 32/36 DGAV. Especially when you prime it for the first time. There was always a defined firmness there when the second throat engaged but not as notchy as it is now. I even for the first time in 30 year splurged and had it professionally rebuilt rather than me just whipping a kit through it. They sonic cleaned it the whole works (Even charged me for gasket kit that I supplied because the rebuild fee was fixed apparently regardless of whether you supplied your own kit or not but never mentioned that beforehand!) Anyways the notchy secondary issue is still there regardless. Anyone encounter or have solutions for this? I have heard of people putting tiny bearings or something in them but that was a long time ago and may be confusing it with bearing replacements for the butterflies that got loose. I also have to consider its somewhere in the linkage too so open to suggestions there as well.
  22. colr6
    Unless your intend on rallying or tracking it, no real need for one.
  23. notenoughtime
    Bought some 8x13 banded steels from eBay at the weekend and had some old 205/60/13s which I stuck on them for now
  24. notenoughtime
    If you was really ingenious could you not go through the inlet itself with a fabricated brace
  25. Mexican Gerbil
    With 3 months to go, we have a handful of camping places left. Don’t miss out of what is set to be our biggest tour gathering yet.
  26. Rich T
    I live by that motto 😜
  27. Xp197777
    Rare as in good condition best bet is to get an original recovered by a professional trimmer then at least it will fit unlike the copy’s
  28. katana
    Found this with a Google search and it does look pretty congested on the inlet side of the bay! I think a welded up bar is going to be your only option!
  29. Billy78
    This is mine I have tried tat type of strut brace various ways but because of the EFI chamber fouls it from the top of the inner wing it sits about 2” higher
  30. 2litreScapri
    Yes it's been underway for many years & I'm pretty late to posting it on OSF, but with a potential 250-300 Capris attending it's going to be a great event to finish off the anniversary shows
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