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  1. Today
  2. Hello, My name is Steve Saxty and I'm a recovering Ford enthusiast who's just spent two years writing a book on classic Fords of the 70s, 80s - I'm better now, thank you. If you don't know about my little book, well OK it's 165,000 words and twice the length of a novel you can read about it here. I'm excited to share all the material I have in the book since I have been hoarding hundreds, if not thousands of photos of prototypes and design sketches. There's a few hundred in my book but I've got videos and all sorts that I'd really like to get out there. Me? well you can read a little more here about me but I worked as a designer at Ford in the 80s and still a retain a soft spot for the company today although I later moved on to Mazda, Porsche, and Jaguar. I tended to drive a mix of company cars and my own back then, Cosworths and two Tickford Capris and as company cars I'd usually run Scorpios or XR4x4s - although I did manage to grab an RS200 for a day on the road which was a rare treat. Anyhow, I'll happily answer questions and happy to post, what I hope will be some interesting material in the future. Steve - and here I am with the last Capri the other month!
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hi has anyone fitted a strut brace to a mk2 Escort that has a 2.0L EFI Pinto fitted with big hole strut tops I purchased one from Peter Lloyd Rallying a loop type but which way I tried it wouldnโ€™t fit so it went back if anyone has fitted one can I ask if you can post a photo of it and where I can get one thank you for your time and help in advance
  5. Thanks for posting, sounds like a great day out, not to be missed if you have a Capri. Only 50 once....
  6. needs lightly blasting or dipping ยฃ300 ono
  7. Hi eeb, It has 681F6015HA cast into the block
  8. Thanks, Al. I'll have a closer look. I thought I'd seen the ring in there, but it might have just "looked" like it was there, if you know what I mean.
  9. what casting number is the block? 681? 691? 711?
  10. Hi Jimbonic, Just looking at the photo of your exhaust down pipe to exhaust manifold connection, have you got the round fire ring seal in-between the pipe and the manifold !!??. Your picture looks as though the pipe cast flange and the manifold flange are just facing each other without the sealing fire ring in-between them. The seal ring is a cast metal round "doughnut" shaped item with male bevelled edges on that sit in-between the female bevelled edges of the two items to be bolted together. If you look at Ebay item number -: 333119923620 That is what you should have (or something very like it) between the pipe and manifold. Regards. Al.
  11. Hi eeb, I listened to what you were saying regarding the engine and thought it would be a good idea to do some more checking. From what I understand, all xflows have the same bore ~81 mm. Is that right? So, I thought I'd check the stroke. Now, I will admit it wasn't the most scientific approach, but it should give something pretty close. I took No 1 plug out, stuck a pencil in the hole and pushed/pulled the car (in gear) to find top and bottom dead centres. Using a ruler across from the top of the head, I marked the pencil in both positions, then measured the distance between them with my calipers. I got a stroke of 64 mm. The 1300 has a stroke of 63 mm, so I'm guessing that's what it actually is. So, my question, particularly given how certain you were, is what the **** have I got? You'll see below that I've had a problem with the exhaust manifold not mating up to the (genuine - from a manual saloon, not an auto) 1300 Mk2 Cortina exhaust. Plus, the carb is not a Mk2 Cortina one - it's a Weber 34 ICH. Plus, the water pump was longer than the new one I've fitted, which is purportedly for a Mk2 'Tina. I'm starting to lose what little remains of my hair! So, any advice or thoughts would be most gratefully received. Thanks, Col. The 1/4" UNCs worked a treat! ๐Ÿ˜Š What I didn't expect was that the new water pump is shorter than the old one! I may try and make a spacer of some description, but at the moment, four washers on each bolt (between pulley and water pump) gets all the pulleys lined up. Also unexpected was the amount the system leaked when I filled it up with coolant. Without even running it, there was water out of the thermostat housing (well, the join between housing and head) and the radiator core in a couple of places. Looks like the 2nd hand rad was not such a bargain! Thermostat housing is most likely old, mating surfaces. I'll pull it apart and have a look. Having been disappointed with the cooling system, I turned my attention on my nemesis - the exhaust. Last attempt ended in a lot of swearing and nicely bruised finger. This time, I got the car up higher (once I'd worked out why my 2 tonne jack couldn't lift my 850 kg car!) and attacked it with greater vigour - and more kicking! Hurrah! The exhaust is now attached to the car and my loved ones are no longer tripping over it in the hallway. Not so hurrah, it doesn't fit up to the manifold. It's long enough and in the right place. It's just the exhaust seems to be bigger than the manifold connection (see photo). Bum! So, I gave up on that to re-group and think of an alternative plan. It's entirely possible that I have an Escort engine masquerading as a Cortina one (the radiator I took out has the word "Escort" written on masking tape down the side....). Is the 1300 Cortina manifold larger than the corresponding Escort version? Do I have an 1100 head with 1100 manifold? Do I have an 1100 manifold on 1300 head? I can't tell from the manuals I have or interweb searching I've done. Any ideas? There seem to be a lot of knowledgeable sorts on here. I had a couple of hours spare, so I thought I might as well see if I could fit the inertia reel seat belts front and rear. I started at the rear, as that is where my most precious people will be travelling. This actually went remarkably smoothly (once I'd located the bolts holding the seat back in place). OK, I am missing the threaded fittings for the bolts to, erm, bolt into. But, there were holes in the chassis in all the right places. So, a few quid on the right fittings for underneath and Bob's your mother's brother. The fronts didn't go quite so well. I got the inertia reel bits fitted to the B pillars no problem. But trying to get the old bolts out of the transmission tunnel for the clippy inny bits is proving a bit more troublesome. They just won't move. I had a quick look underneath and wonder whether they've been undersealed in place. I've liberally doused them in WD40 from both sides. So, I'll leave them for a bit of a soak and come back to them next weekend - maybe with the bastard bar! All in all a bit of a mixed bag this weekend - same as the weather so there must be something in that. The confusion with the engine (and the gearbox) is my main concern. I'm slightly worried that I could spend 'kin ages and shed loads of cash chasing the problem / incompatibility through the car. I don't have much in the way of spare cash. So, I think I need to have a listen to any info / advice on what I've actually got in there and decide whether it's really worth it.
  12. So with lots of 50th anniversary Capri events taking place this year Surrey Capri Club has been working on building from the 45th event to bring this one bigger & better. SO many things still need to get sorted. Sunday 8th September - Starts 10am. Capris only unless by special request! Entry fee is standard Brooklands fee ยฃ14.50. As soon as you drive in you will be guided by our marshals with many other Capris of all models and styles. Our merchandise is available on the day. We will be drawing the raffle for the banking photos and everyone can come to view this. Test hill will be open to those registered and paid (see our website for full details on restrictions & cost) so watch the Capris go up a hill steeper than you think! We'll give everyone time for lunch and then awards will be presented. And, as a treat, Steve Saxty has spoken with myself & Calvin last week (thank you very much for that teleconference) will be providing the heritage 280 Capri and others as he states above and will give a talk about Capris. This and more will make this one of the best events to remember, turning 50 is a massive celebration so let's do it in style! We want you there as part of the Capri collective! More info & updates on www.surreycapriclub.co.uk or Instagram @surreycapriclub Any questions anyone has please do not hesitate to shout!
  13. It should be said all this came about cleaning the Redback Spiders out from underneath the car as I didnt want them biting the dog who goes under it sometimes and spotted the perished bushes and boots on the arms while I was at it. I moved some Mk2 doors the other day out of the rain and their were full of them and got bit myself. Just stings for a few days but no so good for a little dog if it happened.
  14. Found them! My search parameters excluded them when I needed to abbreviate. (Yes I see they irony so no comment from the gallery LOL) They look pretty good. German made too. It will save me having to take them off a perfectly good set of control arms. Would still like to get the arms you have Ray in case the joints on these have had it after 50 years. I fear them sitting idle without the car moving with split boots hasn't preserved them very well. I think the replicas will suit me fine. If Im ordering these boots from Burtons then are their Tie Rod ends good quality as well? There was mention Ray that you may be having some issues getting correct or decent ones?
  15. You know I looked at Burtons before posting here just to see what they sold and all I saw listed was QH complete control arms for MK1/2. There was no boots listed. I swear these search engines dont give everyone equal results. Those new original control arms you gave me the link to Ray they dont come up in any search even when I go through Ebay UK. So I would never have seen them if you had not provided the link. Its like their best match feature determines if its best for you or not. It happens alot actually. I bet most sellers dont realise their items arent reaching the eyes of as many as they think. I used to blame the old computer but cant do that any more. Maybe its just me, technology crumbles in my hands, its why I keep Escorts!
  16. I did try other routes, but that one came up first. Sorry๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
  17. though I hate to say it, I think colins Burtons route would be better RP
  18. You had to get that Burtons bit in didn't you lol, you do it to me every time lol
  19. CA rubber dust seal: Ford Escort Mk1/Mk2/Mk3/Mk4 & Capri Mk1/Mk2/Mk3 TCASEAL No Tax, Each ยฃ2.29 Taxed, Each ยฃ2.75 Available From Stock Qty: ADD TO CART -OR- Add to Wishlist Add to Compare Email to a Friend Share Retards Club Share on Twitter from burtons ๐Ÿ˜œ๐Ÿ˜œ
  20. I found a few auctions like this but not sure if any of the sizes would be right. The writing wouldnt matter so much with them being squished down once fitted I would imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-BALL-JOINT-TRACK-ROD-END-RUBBER-DUST-COVER-KIT-GREASE-FITS-ALL-CARS/181641052280?hash=item2a4aa68078:g:D94AAOSw1ZBUuQjl
  21. Well if itโ€™s a flop this year, it wonโ€™t be happening again. A lot of time and effort goes into organising events. Even though you are all ordering tickets yourselves, staff will need to be there early to set up, direct cars into position, sales stand, Q&A ....... and then pack away at the end.
  22. point me in that direction mate, as I couldn't find any
  23. Replacement boots are available, though they will have no markings on them which no doubt the oe ones would have.
  24. That's really very useful information. I hadn't placed much importance to the slight differences in control arms especially to the uniqueness of original Mk1 Ford ones before. This site and your posts makes one re-evaluate the value of the attention to smaller details. Having owned them so long its hard for me to sometimes get into the mindset they are valuable classics now and I need go that bit extra effort with originality. I was just going to go with the run of the mill generic ones but after your post I think its important to at minimum get a set of the ones styled like the originals. The car as it happens still has its original arms from 1970 which are clearly the same as the ones you have bought. I often get amazed what original parts are still on the car even the rubber brake lines. I think the ball joints may be ok (need to get them completely off to be sure) but certainly the bushes have gone and the boots split. 500 pounds though is a bit over the top I think though so my choices are both the ones you took previously. Fit the complete replica ones or try re-bushing the originals and put on new boots. If the rally design ones that you have still have intact boots (which I gather from your post you cant buy separately) then either way maybe grabbing the ones you have would be the way to go and decide when I have them in my hands whether to fit them complete or use the boots off them? How much were you wanting for them?
  25. Last week
  26. In some years past I haven't put them in the store this early. I do wonder if there's a general reluctance to accept the new venue. Many liked the Drag scene at the Pod.
  27. Tiger seal is the best, wont shrink and you can paint over it, silicone will shrink ,fall out and can't paint over it.
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