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katana last won the day on June 10

katana had the most liked content!

About katana

  • Birthday 26/05/1962

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    Camberley, Surrey
  • Interests
    All the wrong things!

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  1. Really? Being left or right handed, you can't just 'flip them over' as the mounts would be upside down - surely?
  2. Oh Dear - sublime to verging on the ridiculous! LOL! Next you'll be building a trike!
  3. Yeah, I did the same with mine. Its stance with the blocks wasn't bad but as I was swapping the old tired RS leafs for a set of singles I left the blocks out - mine were 1.5" - and I think its look is fine without. Don't know about g/box costs now as mine was done about 8 years ago! I came across a local guy who used to do a lot of gearbox work for hot rod / stock car guys and he had it for about a week, stripped, checked and replaced worn bearings, changed to the larger needle rollers and swapped the supplied tall 1st gear set in, all for £200 which was fine by me - I have a phobia about gearboxes - too many ickle bits for me so always leave to a pro!
  4. They look like 2x2" timber - hope they aren't LOL! But yes, they are lowering blocks. I sort of agree with the smell of gear oil - it stinks!
  5. Find the wire on the Ign. switch that goes 'hot / live' at key posn. 3 (ie starting) Trace it out and disconnect anything attached to it. It needs to be fairly heavy gauge wire as starter soli draws a few amps OR run this wire to a separate relay coil terminal (85 or 86) with other side to ground. Then connect relay 30 to Battery + and remaining relay terminal (87) to starter motor solenoid. The Battery and one to solenoid should be heavy gauge 3.0 or 4.0mm2 would be good. This should eliminate anything not required to energise the starter motor. Ford used to wire the starter solenoid direct via the Ign switch which is a lot of current through the switch and volt drop through the wiring, introducing the relay takes that off the switch with the relay taking the brunt.
  6. Could this also be a case of 'spoilt by modern brakes' syndrome? We all get spoilt by the ease of used and 'immediate effect' of modern brakes when compared to those old 80's agricultural fitments, we thing there is something wrong when they are actually performing as well as designed and we have to readjust our driving style to allow for longer stopping distances etc. I think your leak is more likely the rear crank seal rather than a gearbox input seal.
  7. katana


    Sucks to be the Ka owner - 'no fault write off' and I bet their insurance premium goes up!
  8. Never seen 'seat recession' occur so quickly - actual seat movement maybe but that's through poor installation or defects + seat recession will always tighten gaps not loosen them. I'd possibly looking at valve train geometry or spring binding?
  9. Its not original though is it! Its a race car and race cars (and rally cars as well) often had a matt black painted bonnet to avoid glare etc.
  10. From what i've seen / heard - buy a new rubber then you can cut the face off the old one to make glass removal easier and less likely to crack it! It can be done the 'hard way' but risk of cracking goes up massively! Its not a job I'd want to tackle so i'd bottle it and get an AutoGlass guy in!
  11. Lots of engines have been tried - Mk5/6? RS2000 - reliable, powerful, heavy and limited tuning parts, Regular Zetec's, 1800 or 2000 preferred, will work with carbs, loads of tuning potential, good aftermarket supplies, EFI equipped will get around 170hp or if you use the ST170 derivative over 200+hp is possible without going mad and then there is the 2.0L Duratec engine - similar to a Zetec but everything swopped sides, very reliable, excellent HP potential - good basic 220+hp up to 'full on send it' mode 300hp NA And then turbos on all are an option. Engines cheap to buy, spendy to install and tune though. All Type E and Type 9 gearboxes fit, Mazda gearboxes work particularly well with the Duratec's as that was based off a Mazda / Yamaha product. Any engine swap now doesn't seem to have as much stigma attached as they did 5-10 years ago - reliable, fuel efficient and powerful - what's not to like!
  12. There seems to be a strange Aussie dingo in the car - I thought they were bigger LOL!
  13. That's a good looking bodyshell for a restomod - it'd be a shame to loose its racing heritage! Love the flares on the rear bubbles, just for that little extra width - nice!
  14. The 'youtube' 308 was tested by a guy who had a rough but passable 308 with 'normal' powertrain and I believe he went into the test with an open mind and found the car to be better in most respects than his own except the 'involvement of driving' This I can understand - I like a racket from the mechanics when driving an old car, having just a whine + acceleration wouldn't do it for me. Apparently that car had been owned for a long time and was due an engine overhaul which if true was a potential 20k bill and the conversion was touted at 40k. Now as regards obsolescence - it uses Tesla technology and no one seems to be worrying about them being obsolescent in the near future. As regard range I was being a bit mean - the owner estimated 170-180 miles which the tester guy admitted was only a little shy of his 308's 200 average miles. Weight difference between the two was about 5kg's so nothing there and the weight split was equal 50/50 with most of the weight carried low so helping balance and grip. The owner has a Tesla as a daily so seems to be a 'committed tree hugger' and so the 308 makes a bit more sense - i'd certainly be tempted to give it a drive just to experience 600Nm torque @ zero rpm & restricted 450hp ! ! !
  15. Its maybe been installed without removing the glass and rubbers? Ideally, you get the body of the headliner taut all over and wrapped over the window rubber body flanges - some people glue, some hold with clips whilst installing the rubber seals. This traps the vinyl and the glass reinstallation locks it in place. I've never done one just seen how after removing windows.
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