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katana

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katana last won the day on March 2

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297 Old Skool Hard Core

About katana

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  1. I don't think the cost makes it a 'premium' product - they are designed to do different jobs. The weld through is a metal preparation that will protect the base metal whilst allowing more work to be carried out ie. welding additional metal in without reducing the protection provided by the paint. An etch primer is really used after all the work is done to provide a really well bonded coating over lots of material bases, steel, braze, filler, weld material, stainless and aluminium metals where normal primers coat the base but don't 'bond' to it. It should be harder wearing and provide the best base for finishing paint. Hope that helps a bit.
  2. As above or Rally Design - were a bit cheaper when I did mine...... count the pennies and pounds accumulate LOL!
  3. Not so - the process in both cases is liquid based - acid / alkali, rinse, zinc based dip, rinse, e-coat, rinse, low temp bake. The e-coating is similar to powder coating ie. the 'paint' is attracted to bare metal which has a negative charge, once it has a film depth it can't accept any more as it can't bond. Whilst soda or other blasting will remove paint, filler, rust it is an external only process - the hidden bits aren't addressed! This is exactly the reason our classics rust out - the hidden / non accessible voids that were never painted / protected - sills, chassis rails, door cavities etc. can't help themselves but rust! Personally if I was tackling a resto to the extent of bare shell that was badly externally rusted, I would dip and e-coat if the process replicated OEM and flipped or rolled the body otherwise I'd have to accept rust would be likely again - bummer when the cost is so high!
  4. Tend to agree with ^^^ as you can swop to the retro DCOE bodies with injectors fitted will get equal / better power, better low speed running and majorly improved MPG. Traditional DCOE's are pretty unsophisticated devices even compared to bike carbs!
  5. No axe to grind here but it occurs to me that if the 'E Coat' doesn't get to all the places it should then surely the acid dip isn't either? So it may not be a coating failure but essentially just plain rust on original metal. I've seen the E Dip process in OEM factories where the car body does a complete flip whilst submerged ie big, deep tanks - maybe the aftermarket can't match this extensive dipping?
  6. Man after my own heart! Excellent video Vista - that made I larf!
  7. Or re-engineer the plenum - its only a box connected to each inlet after all with a throttle body at one end!
  8. Well you could always bag the lot of them up, drive down the nearest clay skeet ground and have 10 minutes of fun, chucking the 'pies' skyward !
  9. That's normal - new oil will always be thicker, but wear that excessive ie. once through the white metal bearing surface, the clearances are well outside normal tolerances and bigger gaps will always give lower pressures! You may have only saved the situation through sufficient flow - if the pump had been moody then crank wear would have been likely. As regards the RS pressure gauge - yes it shows pressure but how much is guesswork, just like relying on a light - these are usually tripped at 5-10psi pressure - woefully inadequate for useful indication of pressure! I far rather have a light flickering with a 30psi pressure switch for safety!
  10. Indeed - and all variations - mk3, mk4 and 5!
  11. Hmmm - surprised that you still had oil pressure with those bearings and no damage to the crank? Possibly lose the fan and go electric - good for a few hp and better cooling?
  12. No specifics but 16No. studs are about 14.50 quid and wheel nuts just shy of 18.00 obviously if you get into longer studs or car specific nuts then costs escalate! I think I paid about £20 for long M12 studs for my RS with RS wheels and disc conversion - had the correct nuts and cost about an hour of my labour - need a deep socket and a vise!
  13. Close but studs are cheaper just not so easy to fit so call it a draw!
  14. A few contradictions there RP! The OP has nuts that are wrong - nothing will change that unless he a) changes the nuts, b) the studs or c) the wheels! Adding an adaptor washer / seat is still buying something else and is more of a bodgy than any of the above! Whatever it costs - its learning by experience......... measure twice, buy once LOL!
  15. Love the '69 - Never been a great fan of Capri's except the mk1's - proper boot and that swage line from bonnet to rear wheel arch with the vents is just so stylish!
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