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terribletaj last won the day on February 2 2016

terribletaj had the most liked content!

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About terribletaj

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  1. Hi It is nimbus grey, although it no longer belongs to me, the new owner is just down the road so i still see it a lot.
  2. Yeah I agree, but then some people say RF mounts fit fine, seems to be hit or miss if they work or not, of all the parts I got from RF only 2-3 actually fitted or worked as it should without having to modify it in some way, don't want to seem like I'm bashing RF but that was my experience with all their parts. Your tunnel will be the standard small tunnel, the auto tunnel is really the way to go, gives you so much more room to get everything sitting right.
  3. When I replaced the RF sump for the G19 sump, I had to cut the rear lip off the crossmember and notch a small amount off the crossmember behind the drivers side steering rack mount to get clearance for the sump. I suspect you will have to do the same. Once its all welded back up its not any weaker than it was originally so didn't bother me. I also had problems with the RF mounts, it was either too low and the sump hit the rack or too high and angled like yours, I had to use the smaller rubber bobbins and make spacers to get the engine sitting right, with the larger rubber bobbins it was too high so needed to be somewhere in the middle of the two to sit right. I used the same gearbox mount and it was all the way to the top, your gonna have to give the tunnel a bashing wherever it hits, needs an auto tunnel really in my opinion.
  4. Yes there's a machine shop local and I was going to take them there next week and see what they think, the manufacture said they couldn't machine them as they wouldn't be able to get it 100% true again. I can measure them and find out how much needs machining, it measures around 1.8-2mm out so doesn't need much taken out of it.
  5. Yes I have been refunded for the hubs, the supplier said I could keep them.
  6. The inner larger bearing seat is not deep enough in the hub so the hub doesn't sit in the correct place causing the disc to hit the inside of the calliper. I tried a friends cast hub, it fits fine on my strut and my alloy hub sits wrong on he's strut too so I know its the hub causing the problem. I contacted the manufacture and they said they couldn't re machine them, it seems a waste to just throw them away but I don't know anyone who could sort them, so I was after standard hubs so at least I know it will fit fine.
  7. In desperate need of a pair of rs2000/capri cast hubs, my alloy hubs have been machined wrong and don't fit so want some genuine cast hubs. Thanks
  8. Yeah thats mine, thanks. It's in bits at the moment, sorting out the engine mounts and whatnot.
  9. i've got a zetec fitted in mine, the previous owner fitted chassis mounts and i hate them, makes everything rattle and works bolts loose. I've just cut them out and have bought retro ford mounts to bolt up to standard crossmember. If your using your car as a dedicated track car than chassis mounts could work but if your using it on the road then standard mounts all the way.
  10. I've also got a Tran-X LSD, funny enough it was also JWE that done mine, it made a lot of noise when I first put it in, I changed the oil and added some redline friction modifier to the oil (castol b373) and now its almost silent yet locks up perfectly. It might be worth you trying that first before you go to the expense of buying another diff.
  11. hopefully that will work for you, unfortunately i don't have space/time/knowledge to build things myself so would rather pay for a quality part that fits first time, but i respect the people who make bits them selfs and the effort put in.
  12. He's already got a mx5 engine and early box so we are good there, but thanks for the info. I'm using a alloy version of the polo rad, you can see the thickness difference between the two. the standard one couldn't keep the temp down on track/hot days, was ok on the road in cooler weather. It had a cheap ebay fan before, I got a proper spal fan now, blows a lot more air and is quieter as well. The retro ford mount works really well, it comes with the reinforcement plates so they are fitted too. its height adjustable so you can get the box sitting where you want it, was the only reason i got it really, rather than a fixed mount and hoping it would it be in the right place.
  13. yeah using a xr2 alternator mount, i'm still using the servo tower so no room to have alternator on the inlet side. the exhaust manifold was from 105speed, i highly recommend it, fits perfect, was around £360 for manifold, down pipe and P&P if i remember right. I had it ceramic coated recently so thats why its black instead of bare stainless steel.
  14. heres a pic: Before i had the y connector the other way round so it was pumping around from the heater up into the tank and overflowing on hot days, once i turned it round so it flowed into the bottom hose, the tank level stays the same. One day i will get round to fitting a longer heater return hose so i can take that other bend out.
  15. Yeah its quite a lot for 1 hose but its fits perfect and saves messing around trying to make something fit that won't work as well. Both header tank and heater return are connected to the hose outlet, I fitted a y connector into the bottom hose, the straight part goes up to the bottom of the header tank, and the angled part is for the heater return, I angled it so the heater return would flow down into the bottom hose, if its fitted the other way, the heater return pumps into the header tank causing problems. Kind of hard to explain, I will try get a picture showing it next time i get the car out.
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