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Rally Pack 2000

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Rally Pack 2000 last won the day on February 22

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703 Old Skool To The Bone

About Rally Pack 2000

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    Blue Mountains - Sydney Australia

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  1. Thanks Ray. The poor idling and stuttering acceleration are exactly what I experienced with the DGV version I tried a number of years back. I thought getting rid of the auto choke would be better at the time but I got a host of other problems instead. I put it either down to quality or the fact that it has no anti stall device that was somehow affecting idle and the stutter. I was assured that this was more an emissions required device rather then needed for smooth running but I could never get it to run smooth and that was with all standard the jetting out of an original that had just come off the car so there was absolutely no difference to the jetting Spanish one clearly without anti-stall device An Original with anti-stall device Clearly the place where the anti-stall device goes is still in the casting but I don't think they can be made operational as the place for the vacuum pipe is completely filled in and I would guess the fuel galleries for the pump itself haven't been opened up either. The Standard fuel return is also a bit bizarre on the originals but that doesn't bother me too much compared to the Spanish ones as you can see the original has a feul return that sticks straight out whereas the Spanish ones are angled down. The extra bizarre part is that you can see there is provision for the return line outlet could have been angled down if they had wanted it too. I never understood what that was about! The other brass outlet that you see there in the images is probably one that you guys haven't seen before. That was for the Australian emission devices to be attached so that can be removed and blocked now. By the sounds Ray of Im going to have to find someone competent to rebuild this thing with a host of new parts like you did. I'm annoyed the one on the car with the sticking secondary problem wasn't picked up when I had it done professionally. The one that was swapped off the car in the pictures above its secondary is still smooth as silk and you can barely feel it when the secondary engages.
  2. After a box full of old 32/36 DGAV I have been tinkering with to keep an original Weber on the car I decided through another thread to just bite the bullet and get a new one. I would have done this previously as the there were previous doubles on the quality of the Spanish made ones. Myself included as I tried a manual choke one that would never idle properly a number of years ago. Having just spoken to the Australian importer of them he did admit to some quality issues with the early transfer to Spain but now that's a thing of the past. So I thought I would open a discussion how people have found them? Im specifically curious about 32/36 replacements naturally but more than happy for this to be a broader discussion about all types and Spanish Webers in general. So what have you guys tried and what do you think? I noticed some design differences between the original ones that came on the Escort and the Spanish ones for sale now and will post some images. (such as the fuel return being in a slightly different spot)
  3. Remembered I had some of this in the shed I bought for dodgy seat runner. It definitely helped being alot thicker. Stains like copperslip though only silver. It gets everywhere! lol Definitely an improvement but the issue still there but this will tide me over until a new carburettor comes up for sale. As mentioned above its possibly the secondary throttle control lever (That's number 86 on your exploded diagram) it seems to stick but cant tell if that's from the shaft its connected too or its slide has a wear notch in it. Annoyed that it wasn't picked up by a so called carburettor specialist the one time I go to one, it was for that reason to pick up any little issues I hadn't considered before when I used to simply put a kit through it which apart from a sonic clean is all I think he did as well. Classic Carbs in the UK seems to sell the Spanish 32/36 DGAV with the proper water choke (not electronic), anyone tried these with their Pinto's?
  4. I did try some spay on lithium grease which helped a bit at first then went back to being notchy. Will try something thicker before taking the whole thing off again may get lucky.
  5. I just tried having a closer look, Its not choke or butterfly related, its difficult to tell for sure being at the back but there is a sticking down in the secondary shaft or possibly there is a wear notch in the secondary throttle control lever. I had a box full of these and this one seemed the best but its not right either as it seems. I would get a new one but had issues with a Spanish Made manual choke one that would never idle properly. So have stuck to the old Italian stuff ever since. I will whip it off and try swapping the lever over for one of my spares and see if that makes a difference. If anyone sees an original Italian made 32/36 DGAV in a box let me know.
  6. Over the years I have been noticing a really substantial notch when engaging the 2nd throat of the standard Weber 32/36 DGAV. Especially when you prime it for the first time. There was always a defined firmness there when the second throat engaged but not as notchy as it is now. I even for the first time in 30 year splurged and had it professionally rebuilt rather than me just whipping a kit through it. They sonic cleaned it the whole works (Even charged me for gasket kit that I supplied because the rebuild fee was fixed apparently regardless of whether you supplied your own kit or not but never mentioned that beforehand!) Anyways the notchy secondary issue is still there regardless. Anyone encounter or have solutions for this? I have heard of people putting tiny bearings or something in them but that was a long time ago and may be confusing it with bearing replacements for the butterflies that got loose. I also have to consider its somewhere in the linkage too so open to suggestions there as well.
  7. Isn't that the Royal Coach for Harry and Megan's Wedding? A symbolic clash of cultures.
  8. There wasnt just one choice of insert for the Bilstein struts. There was the standard one which presumably is the softest but its specs arent listed. Then for competition there was the harder 300/70 Tarmac racing one and and softer 260/60 Forest one. Added to that there was a shorter version of the Tarmac one designed for track cars. When I was getting inserts for the pair I have the standard option wasn't available so I went the softer 260/60 Forest ones. I notice now Burtons list standard ones although they have a thicker bottom thread (obviously standardising with the competition ones as the originals had a very thin shaft prone to bending). The trouble I always remembered was when guys would select an insert for these struts they would confuse Tarmac Spec thinking it was Tarmac for the road. I would bet money yours has the 300/70 inserts in it. The solution is fairly simple though now they standard ones are available from Burtons. Just change out the inserts or if you want a bit sportier you can always go the Forest 260/60 although I would have gone standard for a road car had they been available at the time.
  9. It should be said all this came about cleaning the Redback Spiders out from underneath the car as I didnt want them biting the dog who goes under it sometimes and spotted the perished bushes and boots on the arms while I was at it. I moved some Mk2 doors the other day out of the rain and their were full of them and got bit myself. Just stings for a few days but no so good for a little dog if it happened.
  10. Found them! My search parameters excluded them when I needed to abbreviate. (Yes I see they irony so no comment from the gallery LOL) They look pretty good. German made too. It will save me having to take them off a perfectly good set of control arms. Would still like to get the arms you have Ray in case the joints on these have had it after 50 years. I fear them sitting idle without the car moving with split boots hasn't preserved them very well. I think the replicas will suit me fine. If Im ordering these boots from Burtons then are their Tie Rod ends good quality as well? There was mention Ray that you may be having some issues getting correct or decent ones?
  11. You know I looked at Burtons before posting here just to see what they sold and all I saw listed was QH complete control arms for MK1/2. There was no boots listed. I swear these search engines dont give everyone equal results. Those new original control arms you gave me the link to Ray they dont come up in any search even when I go through Ebay UK. So I would never have seen them if you had not provided the link. Its like their best match feature determines if its best for you or not. It happens alot actually. I bet most sellers dont realise their items arent reaching the eyes of as many as they think. I used to blame the old computer but cant do that any more. Maybe its just me, technology crumbles in my hands, its why I keep Escorts!
  12. I found a few auctions like this but not sure if any of the sizes would be right. The writing wouldnt matter so much with them being squished down once fitted I would imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-BALL-JOINT-TRACK-ROD-END-RUBBER-DUST-COVER-KIT-GREASE-FITS-ALL-CARS/181641052280?hash=item2a4aa68078:g:D94AAOSw1ZBUuQjl
  13. That's really very useful information. I hadn't placed much importance to the slight differences in control arms especially to the uniqueness of original Mk1 Ford ones before. This site and your posts makes one re-evaluate the value of the attention to smaller details. Having owned them so long its hard for me to sometimes get into the mindset they are valuable classics now and I need go that bit extra effort with originality. I was just going to go with the run of the mill generic ones but after your post I think its important to at minimum get a set of the ones styled like the originals. The car as it happens still has its original arms from 1970 which are clearly the same as the ones you have bought. I often get amazed what original parts are still on the car even the rubber brake lines. I think the ball joints may be ok (need to get them completely off to be sure) but certainly the bushes have gone and the boots split. 500 pounds though is a bit over the top I think though so my choices are both the ones you took previously. Fit the complete replica ones or try re-bushing the originals and put on new boots. If the rally design ones that you have still have intact boots (which I gather from your post you cant buy separately) then either way maybe grabbing the ones you have would be the way to go and decide when I have them in my hands whether to fit them complete or use the boots off them? How much were you wanting for them?
  14. I was more curious than anything since they can be used on both MK1s and 2s did they go with UNF or Metric with these generic control arms? The thread doesn't both me so much but I would like the split pin look for a Twincam. UNF I guess would be helpful because one day I will go back years in the future and wonder how a metric nut got on there. I have never had an issue with anything QH so if there isn't anything stand out better than theirs then I would get a set of them. Did you solve the Mk1 tie rod end mystery you were having?
  15. I once had a ginger cat called blacky too.
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