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Delbert

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Delbert last won the day on October 14 2016

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About Delbert

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    Old Skool Veteran
  • Birthday 07/11/1954

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    Essex

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    rs2del@yahoo.co.uk

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  1. I have the same set up 74 degree mini thermostat plus fan switch with 85 degree on and off at 80 degrees, fitted to a custom made thomstat and switch housing as shown, works fine never had an issue even on very hot days that we experianced in summer 2018. may need to zoom in a bit on photo to get a better view
  2. Well the gamble didnt pay off so not much expense lost. I've found out that the Gauge i have is the old Spanish made one, newer ones are made by an american company, which use 1/8 npt thread on sender, and seems you can get hold of these very easy such as Burton, Demon tweaks. Whereas the older gauge uses a 5/8 unf thread on sender and are only available from racetech, but are much cheaper than the £16 mark i quoted. So I have purchased along with an inline top rad hose adaptor, so should be all sorted and reading correctly very soon. The only thing that worries me about having to use one of these adaptors, rather that it fit into the cylinder head as per norm is (if i'm thinking correctly) if the thermostat were to fail to open when it should, would the gauge show in the red zone ( danger zone ) to alert a potential overheating before any boil over occurred? As it's now fitted on the cool side of the system, unless I'm thinking wrongly?
  3. Will take a gamble and report back once fitted with the results
  4. I think the Racetech one that I've seen advertised is around £16 Mark so quite a bit of difference hence this topic
  5. Just fitted a New Racetech 52mm Water Temperature Gauge to replace an unbranded one that was fitted, but i forgot to change the sender hence new gauge is not reading correctly, have seen this one for sale really cheap compaired to the ones that are advertised as suitable only for the Racetech gauge, and stating that its universal and covers the temperture range of my new gauge see here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-NPT-Sensor-Unit-Oil-Water-Temperature-Temp-0-C-to-150-Sender-Electric-Gauge/122741428622 was wondering if anyone has fitted one of these universal senders and if they are any good in giving the correct reading of the gauge, or whether its simply a case of buying one dedicated to this gauge.
  6. No have not fitted a throttle stop but I will look into what a throttle stop is like and how to fit one
  7. just reporting back after having a go yesterday found that by just trying to adjust via the screw as shown and suggested in photos above, that this resulted only by increasing more air in carb 2 as mentioned above in my first question, that was registering 5 on synchrometer, it would not adjust down to carb 1 reading of 4 on synchrometer, so found that the only way to get carbs to run at the same readings 5 in this case was to adjust air bypass screws on carb 1 to register 5 on synchrometer the same as carb 2. so i now have both carbs running at the same readings and ticking over rock steady at 1000 rpm. checked condition of plugs once they were adjusted via mixture screws, and they seem like they are fine by the colour of them, took for a run and all seems well, so hopefully appy days ! !
  8. Ok thanks sorry if I seem to be a bit thick but where should the float level be and how do you adjust if nesscesary.
  9. Thanks for info colr6 will give that a go and hopefully they will be in balance with each other. Still can't get it in my head why in classic Ford they are saying to adjust the air screw to balance if the above method is all that is needed
  10. Hi Guys Been checking over the engine whilst car is off road for winter eg the plugs which were found to be running really rich. Also checked balance of twin 40's and found slight difference carb 1 which feeds cylinders 1&2 is reading 4 on synchrometer and carb 2 which feeds cylinders 3&4 is reading 5 on synchrometer so hence need to read the same as I've never balanced carbs before and reading the latest copy of classic Ford it's says to unlock the air bypass and adjust plus I think the tickover will need readjusting is this correct when both carbs are reading 4 on synchrometer can anyone tell me if this is correct and all that is needed to be done in order to balance carbs. Also when adjusting the mixture screws I assume the tickover adjustment will need adjusting as well. Also thinking about checking ignition timing think I'm running 12 degree btdc but not sure if I alter this would this have an effect on the above hence needing further adjustment again
  11. thanks for replies guys, reason for asking is that i had some vinyl stickers made up years and years ago for some reason that i cant remember why now, was told what it was at the time by the printer but i never noted it down, but printer now is long gone out of business, ive tried a couple of other printing places but they said they didnt know, perhaps the one i used years ago was really clueded up or i was just lucky they knew or perhaps i was just quoted a name to make them look good but as i never followed it up im still none the wiser whether it was true or not, just felt it would be handy to know just in case it would be useful for any reason at anytime in the future, if you get my drift.
  12. Hi All. Does anyone know what the name of the style/font like the names of eg, Times New Roman, Arial Black, Courier, Style/Fonts or what ever its called of the RS Badge is that is used on our Mk1's as shown here, or is this just another one of closely guarded secrets kept by Ford Motor Company. as i can find no info to name of etc etc of this on the web, RS Badge.pdf
  13. Good call colr6 have tried a different way to start as you suggested and yes result it started on all 4 cylinders, i must have been much to eager in the past to turn the engine over before letting the fuel fill and pressurise the system, it just goes to show yes cars do have there own quarks.
  14. Thanks for your responses Guys, yes i was assuming what Hotrodmatt stated as being the case, but it does still seem strange to me why theres no way of keeping the pressure even to both carbs when standing say over night, to eliminate the non running on some of the cylinders for a few seconds, where as if its been running during the day and then left say for a couple of hours, it still strarts as if the engine had only been stopped 5 mins previous, perhaps i could run a test to see how long after running it would give the exact start up symptons as experianced when its cold, maybe its only after when a certain amount of fuel is remaining in the filter/reg that causes this, ( wonder if a smaller fuel bowl on filter/reg would cure )
  15. Since fitting twin 40's to my pinto some years ago, which ive never been bothered with until now, ive noticed that when im starting from cold, it always seems to take quite a few seconds before it runs on all 4 cylinders, once fired up it starts fine as you would expect all day long, but leave over night and you get the same again starting from cold that morning and every morning there after, first of all it looked like it was because of lack of fuel in fuel filter/regulator and to the carbs, as fuel can be seen filling up the filter/reg once ign is turned on and pump starts to run ( possibly running back in the fuel line me thought when left standing ) so i fitted an inline non return valve, just before fuel enters the filter/reg which is mounted right next to carbs, but has made no difference, ( filter/reg still drains back when stands over night ) have checked non return valve and alll seems ok with that, have seen that on most twin carb set ups that fuel line is fed into a Tee Type union into the carb that feeds nos 1 & 2 cylinders then runs to carb feeding nos 3 & 4 cylinders, and some feeds are run the opposite direction 3 & 4 first then ! & 2. mine runs 1 & 2 first, but i dont think this makes any difference as to curing my problem, ( unless someone knows better than me ) was thinking would it make any difference if i were to feed the fuel via a Tee fitting to the fuel line that connects the carbs together, ie fit a right angle fuel union at each carb, instead of the normal Tee and right angle unions that are used in the above set ups, ( reason behind the thinking is that possibly the carbs would both be fed at the same time and rate of flow, rather that one having to fill first and then run to the other ) or is there something else not quite right with my set up or am i missing something. thanks in advance Guys.
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