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Delbert

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Delbert last won the day on October 14 2016

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About Delbert

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Essex

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  • Yahoo
    rs2del@yahoo.co.uk

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  1. Why do you need to use an alloy bell housing as I’m sure I’ve seen alloy sumps fitted to iron bell housings
  2. Hi all got asked a question the other week that I didn’t know the answer to at the time. But it’s got me thinking about sumps and my question is are the Alloy sumps that are fitted to the MK1 RS2000 the same as the standard Pinto sump pans ( tin can type I call them ) or is there a difference ( obviously the metal is different I do realise that ) but is there any other differences. Reason for asking is if your building a new pinto engine and haven’t got a sump pan could you fit a standard one and fit in a Mk1 escort especially if you wanted to save money by not buying an Alloy Sump Pan
  3. Thanks for the advice snapper but this has already been done in the past. As for seals I buy mine from a reliable engine builder that is just up the road from me which advertise in classic ford mag which many people on here would have probably seen and their name is Specialised engines in Grays Essex and I’ve always been happy with any of the spares I’ve bought from them in the past.
  4. Don’t think that crankshaft pressurisation is the case as I should have said the catch tank is vented to atmosphere and I’m assuming it’s all down to crankshaft wear but no tell tell signs are showing as far as I can see, and catch tank has been in situ well before the rear seal started to leak, seems like as soon as you fit a new seal it’s leaking straight away which was the same scenario with the front seal hence spacer fitted and now leak free
  5. yes think its going to be fine so long as i make the bore of spacer no more than 0.040" up, as i did with the front one which gives enough clearance for crankshaft rotation but stops oil from leaking through, Dont have a Crankshaft/PCV valve in situ as i have a take off that runs into rear of the cam cover and a take off from the oil filler cap to catch tank, which ive never had any issues with. so there you have it all plain and simple, just need to measure the od of the rear seal for size and then i can knock a few up at different thicknesses between 1mm and 2mm up on the lathe, so i can see which thickness of spacer suits best.
  6. Can’t see any grooves that are oblivious if there’s any wear it’s so minute it’s very hard to see but by shifting the seal back by fitting a spacer should cure the prob like it did with same issue I had with front seal
  7. Need to make some spacers ranging from 1mm to 2mm thick as got Constant leak from rear seal tried changing seals but leaking with every one I’ve changed. Had the same with the front seal so made some for that and cured the leak
  8. Many many thanks dt36 that’s excellent and a bonus For me with the other measurements as well cheeRS Delbert
  9. Hi Guys just a quick question I hope, I need to find out what the diameter of a 2 litre pinto crankshaft is at the rear where the rear seal fits and as I’ve no crankshaft at hand I’m unable to measure, so can anyone measure and tell me if they have one at hand or can tell me where I can find out what the diameter measurement is many thanks in advance
  10. what is the rule of nine never heard that one before for valve clearances, the only thing i can think of is that your referring to is what order to adjust the valves by counting to nine each time, IE no1 open adjust no 8 no2 open adjust no7 and so on,
  11. Hi All, Does anyone know if you can get hold of replacement plastic printed circuit that is found on the back of the MK2 RS2000 Dash Clocks of which there are two fitted im looking for the smaller one of the two, the one that has the circuit for the dash clock lights, does anyone know if you can buy these anywhere, or is it just purely a case of being very lucky and finding a good one on good old Ebay.
  12. Have had an edge one fitted to my pinto for a good few years, i know there not cheap but had no issues with starting hot or cold, which was purchased to replace the standard starter which i experienced starting problems like you have spoken of, its also worth checking out that the battery leads are sufficiently thick enough to carry the power ( mine are 35mm 240AMP ) especial if your battery is located in the boot like mine, plus also make sure that the battery that your using is in good state of health along with a good amount of CCA ( mine is 72ah 680 cca ) hope this will help if you still have any further probs after fitting your new acquired starter, ( hopefully you wont )
  13. Thanks for your reply and help on this subject I'm now getting to grips with what's what and it's looking a whole lot clearer to me. So it's make a list of what to check out once legs are off the car and take it from there and hopefully they will be greatly improved and the drive will be even more enjoyable.
  14. Many thanks for the info. It all sounded too good to be that easy. So seems I've a lot more to take on board before I carry out any refurb just to be sure of all things. Was thinking whilst refurbing to also change springs as I've -1" ones fitted at mo but they seem too hard for the road but don't know their lbs/ft so need to find out what lbs/ft of origanils would be. Plus not sure if I get the original lbs/ft at -1" whether this would alter front ride height to what it is now.
  15. Thanks for your reply. Didn't think is was going to be that easy to be honest. Plus I thought the strut was filled with oil. As you say kyb do an insert would you know where the best place to buy them would be. Also I assume as you say that it's listed under 3lt Capri then the legs are all the same no difference in fit size ( bore ) between these and 2.8 lt ones
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