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Ray

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Ray last won the day on August 16

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425 Old Skool Hard Core

About Ray

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    Old Skool Tool

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  1. i have qty 3 indoor Hamilton cair o port car tents, no longer needed 2 medium one large, 2 of the 3 need zip repairs, one has the fans missing, and all the fan power supplies missing, as I never needed to use the fans, If I find the power suplies I will include them, just lost them in the move, some of the poles need straightening, the one without fans, I don't have the fans as I bought it second hand without the fans ideal if you want to make 2 from 3, tbh easy to make 3 from 3 no longer needed now ive moved collection only from SS3 due to size and awkwardness to pack, no courier would take them job lot £100.00
  2. ok, we all know you cant beat the genuine seals, but a few tips to try first where the seal joins at the bottom, leave a gap, don't butt it back of the seal where its bonded, the D section on the ford seals has 1-2mm holes about every 10-12 inches, drill these holes in your pattern seal if your car has had new floors and sills etc, remove the seals, with the window open, shut the door and look for the tight spots, straighten the seam with plastic mallets to open the gap back up, use a rag to protect paint the best pattern door seals I found was from works escort, but not tried the above, but you still cant beat ford if you can find them a lot of pattern seals are just far too fat end of if you have wood on the door cappings, too large a seal catches the wood, causing additional shutting problems
  3. also ref using expansion tank from the rad overflow, original rads had a nylon insert just pushed into place for the overflow pipe, this would not hold any pressure at all and neither was it designed to, and would spu the water everywhere, later and re-cored rads, they changed the neck to a metal soldered in piece re waterless coolant, i have heard horror stories if your using silicon hoses, not sure what the issue is as I don't use waterless, but had that from a few sources now
  4. things I knew weren't quite right needing sorting lol, just my ocd, I only just finished re putting the blue one back together after doing same thing, except that was a tad more major
  5. been thru this a year ago with Colin and again this year with a 1300E expert, (still a crossflow) as I had both cars done differently, and having just taken the purple car to bits again I had forgotten which way was right, long pump hose goes to the top, Colin has a brilliant theory from his mechanics training that explains why that way round, which I cant remember tbh, the other man just said, that's the way ford did it, but it stems from early mk1 escorts having the heater hose running up and along side the rocker cover, this was dropped and re introduced on mk2 escorts, he said as an aside, one advantage was the additional warmth cut down the oil milking (condensation) in the oil, inside the rocker cover, but the hose position never changed as an aside, the one i have wrong, does get exceptionally hot compared to the other one, may not be related though, both have crystal clean cooling systems, one has modern antifreeze, the cool running one has the old stuff, so that maybe a clue
  6. from what ive heard, and a friend with experience of their product, autosparks looms should be avoided at all costs
  7. anything like my classic car policy and the premium is so cheap to start with that I doubt its worth their while tbh
  8. as a base model, i wouldn't have thought it worth much more than that as a complete running serviceable car tbh, whats still to be put into it would far out weigh its worth, and ive only heard the words rolling shell so far, what about the V5, vin and body plates, without those, the DVLA wont entertain a new V5, just been through this with Nicks car, we also had to have a completely assembled car as is was made, sending over photos off of all the areas they wanted, the engine number also had to match their records
  9. https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/262374000
  10. not had the problem personally, but if it were me, i would use RP,s tissue method, using a strong tissue available in most supermarkets, usually around £2-50 a roll (expensive but holds together on saturation), and soak it is the spray liquid glass cleaner, poke it in and use something to manoeuvre it around, alternatively the same glass cleaner and an artists brush
  11. are you still supplying the members free oil this year Kellye, or did they all mop it up last year
  12. and make sure the pump face and block face are spotless, you will be surprised what you can leave behind on the face
  13. there is normally a trickling supply of genuine ford gaskets come upon e-bay, and no doubt about it the quality difference is visible, if not treat yourself to a gasket set made by Victor Reinz, the genuine ford head gaskets are victor reinz, and they are about the best quality there is, but to get that one I think you need to buy a gasket set, coat the gasket in multi purpose grease and bobs your uncle, make sure you torque load the bolts properly, a silicon sealant can also be used, but on that seal I've found it to be fairly ineffective for some unknown reason, and seems to cause a leak rather than prevent (just personal experience on several occasions), but Wurth sealant seems to be the mechanics favourite, and their cans are a lot easier and far less messy than trying to dispense the ford one, on the transit engine mentioned above, the sealant is the gasket, its designed not to have a gasket, just the sealant, so it becomes the gasket rather than compliment the gasket
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