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Snapper last won the day on November 12 2016

Snapper had the most liked content!

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About Snapper

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    Old Skool Veteran
  • Birthday 25/01/1957

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    Kit Cars, DIY, Quantum mechanics, Beer, Engine building

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  1. I’ve done a quick and dirty calculation on compression ratio for you engine. now there are some assumptions because I don’t know your piston deck height and I don’t know you actual chamber volume, that said it won’t be far off...ish i use Rheinz when I can and they have a 1.3mm thickness compared with 1.63 standard. so with all that said my calc put your compression at 10.65 to 1 at most ok if you make sure you ignition timing is ok
  2. Thanks for the info im getting carbs refurbished and fitted to a manifold that will give a bit more access then I’ll go to one of them.
  3. I took a look at your profile as I’m suffering with bike carb problems to but Wales is a bit far to go for a RoRo tune. The original spaced and horizontal set are massively overfueling and other sets are just not right, my thoughts are to either get one set refurbished then tuned or sell the lot on eBay and start again with a new DanST setup and get it tuned in His place in Bingley or at Northampton Motorsport. ive even got a set of bike throttle bodies on a Pinto manifold but need a new fuel tank, fuel lines with return, fuel pumps and ecu to make it work....Aaaaarh
  4. Car Builder Solutions do a selection of servo’s and I note they do a twin servo setup, it’s a beast and probably needs fitting in the boot.
  5. I run V6 Type 9’s in my kit cars using a spacer between bellhousing and box 1 Kit car runs a 3.9 diff and 195 60 14 tyres yes the 3.3 1st is still low but engine goes to 7500 so I can sort of mask the gap
  6. It’s all about the price Type 9 price for secondhand is heading north of £250 and that’s with nothing more than a visual check by taking the lid off. i have seen recon boxes on eBay for £750+ again no way of checking quality except eBay rating. BGH Geartech is well renowned, been in the business forever and will build to any spec or ratio’s Take a deep breath when you look at prices.
  7. Tins of Slimfast and you’ll save 5Kg for little money and feel better at the same time. weight saving on a heavy car needs to be everywhere not just 1 bit, alloy hubs, alloy engine etc. etc. etc.
  8. On my Lotus 7 replica the 4 Branch manifokd wraps round the drivers footwell. I glued glass heatmat to the outside of the engine bay bulkhead and inside the footwell . for your application andbif you have space a simple ally sheet heat shield with an air gap between the exhaust pipe and pipe tunnel will help reflect heat, glueing silvered heat mat to the tunnel helps with transmitted heat and another layer of heat mat under the carpet should reduce conducted heat. its never one solution
  9. V6 Type 9 is stronger and has better ratios longer 1st 2nd and 3rd standard 1:1 4th and slightly longer 5th just need a 30mm spacer and an in-line bellhousing
  10. R,L or P stamped on the head back end on the exhaust manifold face 2.0L 48cc combustion chamber 1.6L 38cc combustion chamber putting a 1.6 Head on a 2.0L block makes the combustion ratio far to high and a skimmed 2.0L injection head is a much better base to work with
  11. I would think you were told to do a dummy build not a dry build but that’s just semantics. i would do a dummy build with an old gasket to check for valve to piston contact. If your using original springs then the cams won’t have much more lift than standard and measuring spring binding can be difficult with bucket lifters but you can measure lift with the standard cams and then the new cams. i would always use oil when fitting components when I building an engine
  12. The only real options available are the Type 9 and MT75 Ford boxes both have different input and output size and spline count meaning you wil need a new clutch plate and shorten the propshaft with a new nose to fit the gearbox
  13. There is a thread on LocostBuilders builders on how to use the OEM ECU for a Zetec instal its an extensive thread with forensic deconstruction of wiring and it is just that, no opening the box just rewire
  14. RL of FR ? there is a massive difference between FR (fast road) or RL (Rally) The FR32 is a very good road cam once set up properly The RL32 is very peaky only really pulling from 4,000rpm
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