Snapper

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Just to add some clarity, if you do have an engine with PCV from block then this is activated by inlet manifold vacuum, if you vent the PCV to a catch tank it won’t work as there is no vacuum to operate the valve. Remove the PCV and pipe crank case and rocker cover to a vented and baffled catch tank

The final article with my home built 2.1 Pinto where Graham Bahr (Penguin motors) did a final comparison, the journey to get this far was very difficult as 1 set of bike carbs were fitted with a dynojet kit and the diaphragms had shrunk slightly, still perseverance paid off in the end. I found 2 very old Classic Ford magazines from Summer 2009 & September 2009 where Classic Ford build a project 2.1 Pinto and was the inspiration for my build some years later. I beat their dyno figures by some margin but Graham said my Pinto head (ported, big inlets standard exhaust) could have been better.

Second article with my home built 2.1 where Graham Bahr and I really struggled with the bike carbs, Graham had run the engine up on Weber 45’s and a modified distributor but I was going to run bike carbs and Megajolt.

First article using my home built 2.1 Pinto where Graham Bahr (Penguin motors) used it to test exhaust manifolds and the beginning of, in my opinion, an incredible, challenging and interesting journey.

There is a very big difference between a 285 and an FR30 The FR30 was designed as a high torque cam which revs to standard Pinto design and the 285 or FR33 will rev to 7500 and you would want fairly high compression to make the best out of it. First thing you have to do is find out what the compression ratio of your engine currently is then you can plan for a cam

I have a set, can’t remember when I last used them. would never drive a car up them, have jacked a car on to them but most of the time I need a wheel of for access.

Which ever way it goes it’s going to cost us, I mean you and me, add Coronavirus to it all and we are financially F*****

They changed the rules you need an mot from 1st August

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312929698581 talk me through this one!

I run V6 Type 9’s in my kit cars using a spacer between bellhousing and box 1 Kit car runs a 3.9 diff and 195 60 14 tyres yes the 3.3 1st is still low but engine goes to 7500 so I can sort of mask the gap

It’s all about the price Type 9 price for secondhand is heading north of £250 and that’s with nothing more than a visual check by taking the lid off. i have seen recon boxes on eBay for £750+ again no way of checking quality except eBay rating. BGH Geartech is well renowned, been in the business forever and will build to any spec or ratio’s Take a deep breath when you look at prices.

Tins of Slimfast and you’ll save 5Kg for little money and feel better at the same time. weight saving on a heavy car needs to be everywhere not just 1 bit, alloy hubs, alloy engine etc. etc. etc.

On my Lotus 7 replica the 4 Branch manifokd wraps round the drivers footwell. I glued glass heatmat to the outside of the engine bay bulkhead and inside the footwell . for your application andbif you have space a simple ally sheet heat shield with an air gap between the exhaust pipe and pipe tunnel will help reflect heat, glueing silvered heat mat to the tunnel helps with transmitted heat and another layer of heat mat under the carpet should reduce conducted heat. its never one solution

V6 Type 9 is stronger and has better ratios longer 1st 2nd and 3rd standard 1:1 4th and slightly longer 5th just need a 30mm spacer and an in-line bellhousing

R,L or P stamped on the head back end on the exhaust manifold face 2.0L 48cc combustion chamber 1.6L 38cc combustion chamber putting a 1.6 Head on a 2.0L block makes the combustion ratio far to high and a skimmed 2.0L injection head is a much better base to work with

Well the joy that is the current POTUS is certainly enriching the UK’s special relationship like never before. mind you making the Queen wait which she has never been made to do by the previous 12 presidents (she did not meet Lyndon B Johnson) has somewhat dimmed our view of you current democratically elected President.... Or was he, he rather like Putin does he not?

reality check pls After resetting the gaps to 0.025 inlet and exhaust to 0.030 we shoukd be 0.25mm for both with RL21 or 0.010”

Whilst I agree the rule is crass I also think Vettel/Ferrari untypically quick and clever to exploit the advantage. then I fell asleep

I think we may be going about this the wrong way and perceiving a problem that may not be there. if you’ve not had the rocker cover off, take it off and look at the back of the cam which should have RL21 stamped in it ultimately if it’s not producing the power you would expect and a second compression test confirms the low compression you have to take the Head off

What sort of spec is the Head? if standard I would first do a wet compression test, oil down spark plug hole on the worst cylinder and see if the compression increases. are you able to do some mechanics yourself? If so you could pull the head off and check a number of things. Head gasket Valve seats, upend Head and put methalated spirits in the combustion chambers to see if it leaks past the valve seats you don’t say how long you’ve had the 2.1 or how many miles it’s got on it.

The RL21 is an older version of the RL31 I have in one of my 2.1 engines. longer duration cams with more overlap will reduce compression as the valves close later meaning compression of gas starts later as piston is further up the bore when both valves are closed. This is why racey cams need more static compression. If your engine is standard you will have lower compression test readings than the same engine with a standard cam i run 10.7 on my RL31 engine and 9.7 on my FR32 engine

You don’t need to strip the engine just yet, suggest you warm it up then compression check each cylinder with the throttles open. the most important thing is consistency over all 4 even if low then a spoon of oil down 1 bore and see if the reading goes up, if so do the same on the others. if not swing the cam timing a few degrees (not many) see what the readings are IMHO if readings are consistent and the car runs ok, try another rolling road and stay with the car

I don’t see why 8 to 6mm would stop you balancing the carbs as that is purely a mechanical function done at idle. compression pressure is dependant in a number of things but should be done with a warm engine, throttle open. a 2.1 engine will give a little more than a 2.0, cam duration and overlap can reduce this u think they are pulling your dangler, unless the engine was in danger of going bang any rolling road would at least run it up on the rollers and get a lambda Reading

I spent 11 days solid outside on the drive all weathers, rain, wind cold then bloody snow putting another engine in the Fiesta ST. it is a sort in itself that I wind bore you with. i suffer from SAD (seasonal affected disorder) but it’s getting harder to tell weather it’s SAD or grumpy old curmudgeon