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Everything posted by Scortedvan

  1. Yeah, no doubt where ever I put it, it will be easily accessible. Although I should need to look at it far less often than I did with the ceramic fuse box, a ritual on the car used to be to re tension them! Behind the dash is very much 'open plan' in my car so I can get to it fine. Though in general I must admit, I am a sucker for trying so hard to hide things away, I make life more difficult
  2. Yet another small update! I'm just working through a few little bits that are outstanding whilst I wait to have enough cash saved to buy the engine management. This time it was the wiring. Firstly where I moved the original fuse box to inside the passenger foot well, there wasn't much spare cable to fit it nicely anywhere, plus it was pretty fragile anyway so I replaced it with a standard blade fuse box. This has enough spare slots to take the output from the fuel pump relay, and also a main relay output to power up the ECU on ignition on. I needed to extend the cables that originally connected to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the rest were ok. I just need to tidy the wiring up to it (still pretty messy in the pics) and fit the cover for it, then find somewhere neat to fit it permanently, initially I'm thinking under the dash out the way. Then the ECU and relays can live there aswell. The wiring to this fuse box I've done exactly as standard with the fuse positions the same as they are in the original fuse box, so the original wiring diagram is still applicable. This means the fuse ratings can be kept the same (the 20A fuses in the pic were all I had at the time so I could test). I also got hold of a battery terminal fuse box from a Renault Megane Scenic, so that I can fuse the main power line to the front of the car, and also the independent battery lines (one for the fuel pump relay and one for the main relay). This is really neat and I've been meaning to do it for ages. Its silly there never was a fuse to the front but this was how I bought the car and I never got round to sorting it before. So I'm very close to the end of the actual work at this stage... i still need my radiator back (6 weeks to swap the inlet and outlet connections over and leak test it!) and then the front of the car can go back together. Then the management fit, should take long as I'm preparing the connections for it in advance, then hopefully start it and go through the preliminary checks and snagging... and then hopefully I can get it over to NMS for mapping!
  3. One of the more exciting packages arrived today - the exhaust from HPE/Piper. It took a little under a week to arrive which is pretty good considering everything, and was packaged really well. Ive had the manifold and 2 1/4” system. I immediately offered the manifold up, as i have been looking at the gap the down pipe has to fit through, and to be honest i couldn't see this bit being straight forward, especially after previously trying an ashley manifold which (no exaggeration) did not fit anywhere, even the head flange was bent and the holes were out. I neednt have worried though, it fits perfectly! I dont think it could fit any better if it had been made on the car. Its absolutely perfect. And the rest of the system was just as simple, it all just slid together in no time and hung perfectly. You also get a cotton reel mount for the centre pipe which i think mk2s use, for the sake of 1 hole in the rear floor pan i will fit this as it will make the hole thing much sturdier, not that it really needs it. In other news, the type 9 us filled back up with oil, and ive fitted a new cambelt kit. I dont normally use the locking tools on these and zetecs, but as Ive never heard this engine run i thought id better. It was out, but not by much, and to be fair its easily done on these due to the VVT pulley not locking when there is no oil pressure (so when you tension the belt it pulls the pulley round a touch). I still dont havey radiator back which is a pain as i could finish the engine bay cometely if i did but there we go! Only big purchase left is the ME221, and if things go well in the next couple of weeks i may be able to get it this month :)
  4. Small update on this, again just to keep things recorded as much for myself as anything else! The throttle bodies are now bolted down hopefully for the foreseeable! I have roughly connected the throttle cable for now, it needs cutting down properly but I just wanted to see where things sat initially. I have also sorted the ht leads and coil mounting out. This is one area where as great as RF are, they could probably do with reviewing thier prices a bit. I got an under inlet coil bracket for £20 delivered from D A Engineering, RF are closer to £40 delivered and they are obviously identical. The longer HT leads to suit the new coil are around £80 delivered from RF though which i find hard to swallow. I ended up getting them from MR Retro Leads - £33 delivered. These leads come with the sparkplug boot fitted and 24” of lead, so you can route them however you like. You also get the coilpack boots and terminals so you terminate them yourself once you have cut the lead to your required length. Once the leads were done, a cut a small slot in the Sparkplug cover so, everything looks neat and tidy. I have also managed to prime the fuel system to check for leaks and ensure the static pressure is correct. Thankfully no leaks were present and i got a nice steady 3.2bar which should suffice. It was really nice to hear the pump run actually, with that and the engine cranking from the key now it feels very close to being complete. Finally i have just ordered my exhaust - a HPE manifold and HPE full 2.25” system - very pleased! I spoke with James at length and he was really helpful. For those that don't know, the system and manifold are produced by piper and they get really good reviews. The only alternatives are mega bucks for a bespoke systems/TLE/Simpson, or an Ashley which is gramted cheap but will (guarantee) just not fit. That should be with me within the next 2 weeks and I’m really looking forward to fitting it!! Im hoping to be able to order the me221 management in the next week, so there is a small chance before July is done ill be able to go for a start but we shall see - Im in no rush really. In preperation for that im running in a decent supply to a small fusebox with a main relay for the ECU, and a fuel pump relay. The main relay will just be aux controlled, and the fuel pump relay will be operated by the ECU.
  5. Another week and a bit more done. The fuel system is complete now, the nylon braided teflon lines are all in up to the regulator which i have had to put on the o/s inner wing due to the throttle bodies making bulkhead mounting difficult. The outlet from the tank will suffice for now, but i have the technical drawings back for an adaptor, I'm just waiting on making an order as i need to order 10 @25 a go! The cooling hoses arrived from RF, makes life very simple to be honest as everything just fits. The heater matrix pipes were the only slightly tricky part as where the copper matrix pipes were cut flush with the bulkhead, trying to get the silicone hoses through the bulkhead hole was tight. I ended up slackening the heater box mounts to give a bit of wiggle room. Im just waiting on my radiator which Im having repaired for now - id like a big alloy job but its not immediately required, something for the future once its running. Decided to order a HPE exhaust manifold and system, it works out cheaper than RF, piper etc and the manifold looks fantastic! Hopefully ill get that in the next few weeks. And then, i just need the ME221 management, but i suspect i need another pay day to arrive before i can buy that! In the meantime I’m just tidying up bits under the bonnet and making things as neat as possible.
  6. The biggest advantage I can see with it is the pressure reduction in the system - and this was the reason a customer asked for it. Without the pipes/heat exchangers under constant pressure/stress the likelihood of leaks will be reduced to an extent at least. But the con to me as I said before is; what happens should you have a leak and you don't have a waterless coolant top up bottle to hand? Putting water in is essentially writing of ~£60 worth of fluid, and then needing to go through prep work again would be irritating. That said I am very tempted by it, and at the minute I'm swaying towards using it, and just making sure I have a top up bottle in the boot as Katana mentions! Nice to hear different peoples opinions on the subject though.
  7. Sorry, not bspp and not tapered so not bspt or npt. The closest you can get that I've found is 1 -1/16” -12TPI which is an sae fitting but the 1/16” means it just wont fit. Its undoubtedly 1” -12TPI (someone on turbosport had an old parts page that showed the fitting and ford referred to it simply as ‘1” fitting’). You could get away with M25/2 but again you might aswell be looking for unicorns! Im more than happy to have these made, and im getting more and more people each day ask about them, so if everyone asking buys one ill have none left! Clearly something a few people have pondered in the past.
  8. Exactly this - i really want to have the engine bay as clear as possible if i can, by the time regulators, catch cans and expansion tanks are fitted it all starts to look a but cramped! Theres a pic online of a green mk1 engine bay with a black top zetec, you can see nothing but the engine intake and exhaust and it looks brilliant. How are you finding the waterless coolant? I carried the conversion out on a customers car and i was quite impressed by it, however the inability to carry out emergency topups i always found a bit of an issue! Kind Regards Joe
  9. Thanks for the heads up - im not on Retards Club but I'll get the missus to get in touch with him later. Ive just looked through some pics a black cossy mk2 and the combined brake and clutch reservoirs he built for it is exactly what I'm after for coolant and oil catch! Thanks again
  10. HI all, Little bit more progress made! The plan was to complete the fuel system after getting the engine in, so thats what ive been concentrating on. I have the pump and filter fitted in a very nice cradle, and I also got a bit of a deal on a superb pump/filter manifold from Torques_UK (who are fantastic by the way, cant say enough good things about them - everything's next day delivery, everything's quality and he answers all questions). I then started getting the supply and return line ran in, which went well. The black lines and fittings against the green car look really good in my opinion (also in the picture ignore the fact that I only go one of the P Clip eyes over the bolt I noticed after looking at the picture I took and sorted it!). The lines are in the engine bay now, just need to decide where the regulator will sit. I really wanted it on the bulkhead by the brake res, however there may not be enough room, and it may end up living on the inner wing. I need to work that out. I also got the return line fitted into the sender which is great, to be sure i half filled the tank with fuel and hung it upside down so the sender was the lowest point and nothing leaked (better safe than sorry!). I also sorted the supply to the pump fitting but this I'm less happy with. Its fine, it doesn't leak, but I really want a proper adapter. So being unable to locate one, I've commissioned a company to make them. I have managed to muster some interest on another forum, so I should be able to sell a couple to cover the minimum order cost of 10. Finally one thing I wasn't expecting to get this month was a set of throttle bodies, which also came up at a very respectable price (half what I expected to end up paying). They are from a Hayabusa and came with a manifold to suit and the injector harness. Next steps now will be to wait for payday! And then order the cooling system parts I need. I'm going to use RF pipes, although costly, it will be nice to just have them fit without messing around.I am still trying to source an expansion tank that I like, lots on ebay but I just haven't seen one that I think will suit properly yet. Id like a cylindrical one that I can get tucked into the nearside corner really. I am half thinking of running waterless coolant and no expansion tank, but ive also thought there are some fundamental flaws with doing that so im undecided as yet. From that point, I will just need engine management and an exhaust - everything else should be done! I had the engine turning over on the key the other day which was good to hear, though I still need to put a cam belt kit on it so it was only a brief flick!
  11. Got you, that does look good. What I have done is cut off the nut from the top and opened the hole out to 13mm from memory. I've then welded an An10 fitting on top. The thing thats frustrating is that i cant find an adapter that fits into the large threaded part of the tank. Its really odd - nothing matches. Its SAE ,JIC, ORFS, etc etc. And no one seems to be know either!
  12. That looks really neat! Im going to use an an10 90 fitting from the bottom of the adapter. So what does the banjo bolt on yours thread into - have you opened the hole in the large threaded part that goes into the tank and tapped it to suit?
  13. Hi there, Im in the process of fitting an st170 engine so i wanted to open the diameter up. I also wanted to use off the shelf AN fittings - really for no more than asthetics if im honest. Thats where this all started and I'm afraid now, finding an adapter to fit the large thread, and convert to an AN fitting has become an obsession! The original fitting i have modified and welded an AN fitting on which will do, but I'm awaiting some technical drawings back from a company that are going to custom make what im after. Ill have 10 @ £25 each if you are interested!
  14. Hi there, im in the middle of doing exactly this, i have a bit of a mini thread running about 8 posts below this one - “Mk1 Escort - St170 Conversion - To be or not to be..?”. kind regards joe
  15. Evening all, i hope everyone is well? I was wondering if anyone has ever successfully sourced a fitting for the large threaded outlet on a mk1/2 escort (and presumably some other models)? Many people seem to believe its a 3/4 bspp, but the diameter is not quite right and also 3/4bspp is 14tpi whereas the original fitting is 12tpi. In fact I make the required thread exactly 1”-12unf, and for love nor money i cant find any adapters that will fit... ive spoke to many hydraulics companies, fuel tank restorers, pre war steam engine restorers ... and no one has ever heard of anything that will suit. I do have a temporary solution in place but trying to find something that fits has become an obsession! Ive attached a picture of the original fitting for reference. If anyone is interested, i can get some custom adapters made (1”-12male -> 10AN male) but i need to order 10 @£25 each so i can only do that with interest from elsewhere! kind regards joe
  16. Hi all, Im currently working through an st170 conversion on my mk1 and i now need to plumb the fuel return back into the tank. If anyone else hd an original sender with the return connection then please let me know. I can modify my original but would be nice to use an original part if possible, Kind Regards Joe
  17. Managed to get some time yesterday to get the engine and box mated together and dropped into the car. The grp4 tunnel certainly makes fitment far easier than with a standard tunnel, and im really pleased with the retroford mounts and sump. There isn't much tolerance around the bulkhead and subframe, yet everything fits perfectly. They also look factory finish which is pleasing! The only thing that needs adressing is the gearbox mount which has ended up a few mm from where it sat before but to be honest thats a complete non issue all things considered. One thing that may come back to bite me is my choice if starter motor. All research pointed me toward an lrs707, when using a zetec flywheel. And thats what ive used, but i went cheap and it doesn't seem very good... i did power it up whilst on the floor and it engaged the ring gear and span the engine over but it doesn't fill me with confidence to be honest! Plenty of stuff i can do now, but i do need to save some cash aswell - outstanding items now are exhaust, throttle bodies and engine management so not exactly cheap!
  18. Evening all, few more bits done. The cam cover has been modified to trim some unneeded excess from the back of it, move the breather port. Ive also painted it, and despite it turning out well, its mot really the colour I was after (much too dark). But it will certainly do for now! The breather, i just cut the original port of the back of the cam cover, drilled it out from 10mm to 10.5 and ran a m12 tap down it, to take a odd slim bolt i had lying around. I then drilled a new hole to take an an6 fitting on the side. It has to go right in the corner so the original splash plate in the cam cover can retained, and continue performing its function. I will probably end up with a catch tank somewhere but id like to avoid tanks all over the place under the bonnet - i was hoping to find a combined unit so coolant expansion tank/oil catch tank in one, but they dint seem readily available. If anyone has any suggestions here, they would be welcome? The new spigot bearing is in, so its just a case of bolting the box to it for hopefully the final time and planking it all in. I can do this Friday fingers crossed.
  19. Few jobs done over the last week then. Firstly the engine kit arrived from retroford, and its all really good stuff. Very well made and will suit me down to the ground. The engine got a check over, cleaned and paint and then the sump, mounts and water manifold fitted. I then gave the flywheel, clutch and type 9 a test fit and everything seems good. The lrs707 starter appears to be correct, the clutch release arm is sitting in the same position as with the pinto and the clutch cable bracket fits nicely. I am still waiting for a new spigot bearing so thats all i can do for now. I then turned my attention to the wiring and fuel system. The wiring under the bonnet is already in good condition as i have worked on it previously, really it was just a case of taping the no longer required coil and dizzy wiring into the loom ( so everything is always reversible easily!) and moving the temp sender connection to the bulkhead. I already have a kenlowe electric fan fitted with a relay, which was activated by an inline sender. Ive removed this, and ran the earth for the relay also to the bulkhead where the new rad fan switch will live on the water rail. I plan to use the rad fan switch to switch the relay earth, because that way i will also be able to use the me221 management to also switch the same earth (probably via a diode but ive not looked at the me221 wiring yet) so i can fail safe the circuit. With the fuel system Ive took the original fuel tank outlet out, cut it back flush and opened the feed hole up. Now i can weld an an10 fitting to it once i have some gas! The return, im just going to run a pipe through the sender, replicating the original setup on the senders mk2 escorts came with i think!) Still need to strip the cam cover back and paint that, its a real eyesore at the minute, but i also need to block the breather port on the back and fit my an an10 fitting on the side. I also moved the fuse box off bulkhead to the passenger footwell to ensure clearance, and cut the heater matrix hoses back flush with the bulkhead for the same reason.
  20. Hi All, After a set of throttle bodies, preferably with a manifold to suit an St170 engine. Let me know if anyone has anything suitable! Kind Regards Joe
  21. This is the one, i don’t have a part number for it, but it is adjustable between 1-5 bar so should be fine for my application. Do you have any views on this?
  22. Evening all, little update just to track things for my own record if nothing else! The new engine has been stripped of ancillaries, cleaned and the block given a decent coat of ford grey engine enamel. Its come up really nicely to be fair! Ive had a look under the cam cover, which has pleased me as it looks brand new, and the oil looks really fresh which is a good sign. I will inspect the bottom end at the weekend when the sumps being swapped over for the RF one - my fitting kit should arrive tomorrow so if all goes well id like it sitting in the car on the mounts by Sunday evening. That said I'm not in any rush really. Regards the breather, Ive done a bit more digging and i think its fine to leave the original one as is, the engine mount should clear fine and it seems much better than some of the aftermarket solutions. Thats been cleaned and painted also. In regards to the fuel system I've managed to sort that now i think, i found a reasonably well rated pump from a company called racing lines - it was new but never fitted so I got that for a great price. And I got a bnib Fram filter for £3 which was nice, and a malpassi regulator and pressure gauge bnib. Fuel lines wise, Im using an-8 nylon braided line for the supply, an-10 for the pump supply line and the same but an-6 for the return, all from an ebay seller named torques_uk who seems highly regarded. To be honest its cost a fortune but its not an area that should be scrimped on.
  23. Evening all! So some more progress made and as always another question :) The packages have increased in both size and frequency, and most pleasingly my engine turned up. This was duly stripped of things no longer needed which are now on ebay. I also got the flywheel modified, which in all honesty i ended up doing myself, both to save a couple of pennies and also because I wanted to. It turned out well, all holes drilled and tapped in the correct places, to identical depths etc so it will certainly work to an extent. Im happy in the future to re adress this if I need to. Todays question though, is regarding the crank case oil breather/separator and pcv valve. Can the original setup be retained with the pcv modded to flow without vacuum - does it physically fit in that location with the starter and exhaust in the same area? Alternately i have seen a plate that i could make myself with a 10mm barb connection - is this more suitable in terms of physically fitting? i have no real preference, and im happy to leave the original setup in place if it fits. Thanks everyone ! Joe
  24. Thanks for that - I've found him on the internet so I'll call him in the morning and see what he says. Thanks for the suggestion!
  25. Not at all - all thoughts/suggestions/criticisms are more than welcome. Balancing is a consideration, but I've made a few calls and I'm struggling to find anyone available to do it for months. So in the interest of getting some progress and getting the engine in the car in a timely manner this seems like the best approach. Obviously if the cover isnt perfectly centered then it wont get fitted but I feel confident I can get it right. And ultimately - if i get it in the car and there are vibrations when I come to drive it, I will hopefully be in a better position to spend the money on a pre-drilled one from retro ford
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