Jump to content

Kenbex522

Members
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Kenbex522 last won the day on November 29 2017

Kenbex522 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

28 Very Good

About Kenbex522

  • Rank
    Old Skool Regular

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lincs

Recent Profile Visitors

717 profile views
  1. Did you not sell this to someone in Bedford?
  2. Edit meant to quote Katana's post! The original pre x flow Ford ones were just that Oilite bronze (not normal bronze) which as the name implies for those who dont know are impregnated with oil. They can dry out over time say like the 50+ years most of the originals are now, and is often why you can get the occasional screech which people can mistake as thrust bearing. The originals were a snug fit, I have found in the past new old stock, and they're not slack fits by any means. Obviously these days the way to go is fit a roller bearing. Even for the later smaller 15mm dia input shaft boxes, the last few Anglia's i had, i simply machined the old oilite bearing out to take the standard x flow/pinto/zetec spigot bearing Katana mentions.
  3. So many times I've said to people on FB and other forums that I've lost count now, dont make Spigot bearings from brass or ordinary bronze. But you always get the "my mate is an engineer he knows what he is talking about" Sorry you had to find out the hard way. Hopefully you can move on from this set back. Incidentally did you know you can buy a proper roller bearing for the 17mm input shaft. Its 40mm OD for the crank hole and 17mm internal SKF bearing number 6203 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKF-6203-2RSH-Bearing-BNIB-17x40x12/222302122101?epid=1246920427&hash=item33c23d3075:g:Lj0AAOSwn7JYEg-f
  4. Got the 6" variety on mine.
  5. Ended https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Rostyle-alloy-wheels-13x5-5J-pair-1960-70s/303165002760
  6. They're not Cosmics, they're Roadmax wheels and there are two more on Ebay currently.
  7. Nope not a clue. The axle its going in is still at the blasters atm, so not got round to fitting it, sorry.
  8. Kenbex522

    Struts .

    Your Anglia top mounts should be a direct fit on to the mk2 Cortina strut given the strut shafts are both the same diameter. (unless different inserts have been fitted). But:- The Mk2 Tina struts have a different kpi angle to the 105 strut, so it means you cant use the Anglia TCA's as they are simply too short and increase the positive camber. One way around is to use the Cortina mk2 TCA's which give you the right amount of negative camber, or you can convert the Anglia TCA to adjustable type. You can get issues with the front wheel being pulled forward slightly if you use Anglia adjustable TCA's, as you have to stretch the arb outwards to fit. This can (but not always) cause issues with certain wheel/tyre combinations catching the leading edge of the wheel arch. The other issue is the mk2 strut steering arm is not right for the Anglia geometry. It gives very poor lock to lock and slow steering. Milton Race sell a proper made arm just for this purpose and corrects the other issue of incorrect Ackermann. The other way around the camber issue is to use offset top mounts, but you wont get the mk2 struts in with the original springs fitted. This is because they are bigger diameter and will foul on the inner wing, hence why most people go with the coil over conversion on the mk2 struts.
  9. Not exactly identical and you'd need to tap a thread as Ford ones are pressed in, but a landrover one will do the job. similar size dimensionally. Just bought some myself though not fitted as yet. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-and-Rear-Axle-Breather-Set-Land-Rover-Series-2-2a-3-515845X2/371916556629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  10. Yea mine was a Chrysler 180. Think i paid about 250 for it which was way over the top even back in 1979. I thought I knew it all back then. A lesson was learnt very quickly when the engine permanently broke about 3 weeks later beyond economical repair. I did manage to keep it a secret from my Dad though, as he would have blown a head gasket !!
  11. It might be a local lad who's bought it and hasn't yet told his Mum and Dad he's just blown his Grandparents inheritance.... Not that I know anything about doing something like that.....
  12. You'll be lucky to find new or even new old stock. The front hub is part of the drum too which is why no one does them, or bothers to reskim them because you need a jig to do it. If I were you I'd be checking out the Milton Race standard leg disc brake conversion kit. For the price, its the easiest solution and improves the braking. Insurance companies usually accept this as an acceptable mod without additional premium too.
  13. Yes given how long these have been around for now, relatively little seems to have found its way onto the classic car market as yet. As mentioned I guess its lot to do with choosing and finding the correct materials and set up/programming time.
  14. 1st Motion in Letchworth did mine. Cant give you an exact price for normal reconditioning, as I had a long first gear set fitted and a heavy duty layshaft bearing conversion as well. Thats was over a grand. Cant fault the work though.
  15. As i understand it the RX box top/6th gear isn't that much different to the 5th on a type 9 either. All you are gaining is a (currently cheaper) stronger box with an extra gear in between. Dunno exactly what diff /engine combo you are running, but I run a T9 in my Zetec Corsair with a 3.7 diff and I can sit at 70 /80 all day long and still get between 35/40 to the gallon and it doesn't sound busy at all, I dont think anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...