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Kenbex522 last won the day on November 29 2017

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About Kenbex522

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  1. They have a big Achilles heel. Its called a fibre timing wheel. You can buy steel replacements, but they should come with free ear defenders! as they're pretty noisy. The only part worth saving on those new 1700's would be the fibre wheel! My Brother had mk1 V4 Capri back in the day, and the engine was ok in that, it was just the rest of the car that fell apart. I owned two British mk1 transits back then both with 2 litre V4's. One was brilliant and never gave any trouble, the other however got swapped out for a V6 pretty quickly. The V6 ironically died two years later when the fibre timing wheel gave up the ghost. I now own a Corsair but it was never a V4 being the earlier 1500 Kent version originally. But at shows I'm continually asked about V4 and told their Dad had a V4 back in the day, so plenty of people still remember them. Dont forget that the old NSU RO80's were also fitted with the Ford V4s in abundance, as the old Wankel rotary engines gave up the ghost after a relatively short space of time.
  2. The only comment I'd make is if you are intending to get it set up on a rolling road, worth checking with them what ignition system they are happy to work with. Not all of them will work with certain systems, as I found out a few years ago.
  3. I used an AP racing FWD clutch kit so didn't need to redrill my flywheel. But you need either a thicker thrust bearing CT133, or a spacer on the thrust bearing that came with the kit which is what I used. Its worked fine for the last 4 years. It probably lighter than the Pinto clutch up as well.
  4. If he's running a Zetec why will he need a trigger wheel and sensor? its already on the flywheel.
  5. Which recovery firm was that Munch? My Corsair disgraced itself for the first time in the 4 years I've had it on the road and not at the most convenient time either. I'd made the decision to trailer it to the NEC partly as we were not stopping, just leaving the car on display stand all weekend and coming back Sunday to drive it home, so it would have meant driving two cars on the Thursday. The Corsair started ok to get it on the trailer, it started to get it off. We unloaded up in car park N10 what seemed a fair way away. It also started when i drove it down to get to the correct hall. It was filthy from the journey there, so i I washed it down outside the hall. Got called into the hall, do you think it would start?? would it hell. Appeared to be either battery or the starter motor itself. Managed to get a bump start so it could get in the hall. I only had the trailer hired for the Thursday, so when it came to home time on Sunday, the lads on the stand bumped it again and I had a fraught journey home trying not to stall it anywhere!! We had to fill up with petrol from cans as I dare not turn it off. I do have AA recovery but i didn't really want to be messing about with them if I could avoid it. The starter has blown basically was the issue.
  6. I used to carry a very small trolley jack in the boot. Fitted under my lowered car....just, However what I'd overlooked, when the tyres go flat it drops the car by the amount of tyre sidewall height obviously, so the trolley jack was completely useless as I found out on a hard shoulder one day. My mate I was with following, had one of those cheapy ebay scissor jacks which fitted under perfectly and did the job. So I also bought a similar smallest height scissor jack I could find off Ebay, only cost a few quid, perfect doesn't take up hardly any space. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-TON-TONNE-SCISSOR-JACK-LIFT-WIND-UP-FOR-CAR-VAN-GARAGE-HOME-EMERGENCY-QUALITY/292140705425?hash=item4404f16691:g:7GEAAOSw9NhbB7vd
  7. Edit meant to quote Katana's post! The original pre x flow Ford ones were just that Oilite bronze (not normal bronze) which as the name implies for those who dont know are impregnated with oil. They can dry out over time say like the 50+ years most of the originals are now, and is often why you can get the occasional screech which people can mistake as thrust bearing. The originals were a snug fit, I have found in the past new old stock, and they're not slack fits by any means. Obviously these days the way to go is fit a roller bearing. Even for the later smaller 15mm dia input shaft boxes, the last few Anglia's i had, i simply machined the old oilite bearing out to take the standard x flow/pinto/zetec spigot bearing Katana mentions.
  8. So many times I've said to people on FB and other forums that I've lost count now, dont make Spigot bearings from brass or ordinary bronze. But you always get the "my mate is an engineer he knows what he is talking about" Sorry you had to find out the hard way. Hopefully you can move on from this set back. Incidentally did you know you can buy a proper roller bearing for the 17mm input shaft. Its 40mm OD for the crank hole and 17mm internal SKF bearing number 6203 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKF-6203-2RSH-Bearing-BNIB-17x40x12/222302122101?epid=1246920427&hash=item33c23d3075:g:Lj0AAOSwn7JYEg-f
  9. Got the 6" variety on mine.
  10. Ended https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Rostyle-alloy-wheels-13x5-5J-pair-1960-70s/303165002760
  11. They're not Cosmics, they're Roadmax wheels and there are two more on Ebay currently.
  12. Nope not a clue. The axle its going in is still at the blasters atm, so not got round to fitting it, sorry.
  13. Kenbex522

    Struts .

    Your Anglia top mounts should be a direct fit on to the mk2 Cortina strut given the strut shafts are both the same diameter. (unless different inserts have been fitted). But:- The Mk2 Tina struts have a different kpi angle to the 105 strut, so it means you cant use the Anglia TCA's as they are simply too short and increase the positive camber. One way around is to use the Cortina mk2 TCA's which give you the right amount of negative camber, or you can convert the Anglia TCA to adjustable type. You can get issues with the front wheel being pulled forward slightly if you use Anglia adjustable TCA's, as you have to stretch the arb outwards to fit. This can (but not always) cause issues with certain wheel/tyre combinations catching the leading edge of the wheel arch. The other issue is the mk2 strut steering arm is not right for the Anglia geometry. It gives very poor lock to lock and slow steering. Milton Race sell a proper made arm just for this purpose and corrects the other issue of incorrect Ackermann. The other way around the camber issue is to use offset top mounts, but you wont get the mk2 struts in with the original springs fitted. This is because they are bigger diameter and will foul on the inner wing, hence why most people go with the coil over conversion on the mk2 struts.
  14. Not exactly identical and you'd need to tap a thread as Ford ones are pressed in, but a landrover one will do the job. similar size dimensionally. Just bought some myself though not fitted as yet. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-and-Rear-Axle-Breather-Set-Land-Rover-Series-2-2a-3-515845X2/371916556629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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