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Everything posted by Kenbex522

  1. Got the 6" variety on mine.
  2. Ended https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Rostyle-alloy-wheels-13x5-5J-pair-1960-70s/303165002760
  3. They're not Cosmics, they're Roadmax wheels and there are two more on Ebay currently.
  4. Nope not a clue. The axle its going in is still at the blasters atm, so not got round to fitting it, sorry.
  5. Kenbex522

    Struts .

    Your Anglia top mounts should be a direct fit on to the mk2 Cortina strut given the strut shafts are both the same diameter. (unless different inserts have been fitted). But:- The Mk2 Tina struts have a different kpi angle to the 105 strut, so it means you cant use the Anglia TCA's as they are simply too short and increase the positive camber. One way around is to use the Cortina mk2 TCA's which give you the right amount of negative camber, or you can convert the Anglia TCA to adjustable type. You can get issues with the front wheel being pulled forward slightly if you use Anglia adjustable TCA's, as you have to stretch the arb outwards to fit. This can (but not always) cause issues with certain wheel/tyre combinations catching the leading edge of the wheel arch. The other issue is the mk2 strut steering arm is not right for the Anglia geometry. It gives very poor lock to lock and slow steering. Milton Race sell a proper made arm just for this purpose and corrects the other issue of incorrect Ackermann. The other way around the camber issue is to use offset top mounts, but you wont get the mk2 struts in with the original springs fitted. This is because they are bigger diameter and will foul on the inner wing, hence why most people go with the coil over conversion on the mk2 struts.
  6. Not exactly identical and you'd need to tap a thread as Ford ones are pressed in, but a landrover one will do the job. similar size dimensionally. Just bought some myself though not fitted as yet. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-and-Rear-Axle-Breather-Set-Land-Rover-Series-2-2a-3-515845X2/371916556629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  7. Yea mine was a Chrysler 180. Think i paid about 250 for it which was way over the top even back in 1979. I thought I knew it all back then. A lesson was learnt very quickly when the engine permanently broke about 3 weeks later beyond economical repair. I did manage to keep it a secret from my Dad though, as he would have blown a head gasket !!
  8. It might be a local lad who's bought it and hasn't yet told his Mum and Dad he's just blown his Grandparents inheritance.... Not that I know anything about doing something like that.....
  9. You'll be lucky to find new or even new old stock. The front hub is part of the drum too which is why no one does them, or bothers to reskim them because you need a jig to do it. If I were you I'd be checking out the Milton Race standard leg disc brake conversion kit. For the price, its the easiest solution and improves the braking. Insurance companies usually accept this as an acceptable mod without additional premium too.
  10. Yes given how long these have been around for now, relatively little seems to have found its way onto the classic car market as yet. As mentioned I guess its lot to do with choosing and finding the correct materials and set up/programming time.
  11. 1st Motion in Letchworth did mine. Cant give you an exact price for normal reconditioning, as I had a long first gear set fitted and a heavy duty layshaft bearing conversion as well. Thats was over a grand. Cant fault the work though.
  12. As i understand it the RX box top/6th gear isn't that much different to the 5th on a type 9 either. All you are gaining is a (currently cheaper) stronger box with an extra gear in between. Dunno exactly what diff /engine combo you are running, but I run a T9 in my Zetec Corsair with a 3.7 diff and I can sit at 70 /80 all day long and still get between 35/40 to the gallon and it doesn't sound busy at all, I dont think anyway.
  13. You must have HID for sure because the normal Mazda 6 estate 2009 I had until recently it was like it had cataracts. Common problem which the manufacturer refused to deal with along with several other known faults. So i splashed out on some PIAA bulbs, bloomin expensive but improved the original poor lighting on that. I recently sold my Mazda as another issue with that of the power steering getting a mind of its own. Again another dangerous common fault the makers didn't want to admit too...but thats for another forum. Just recently I've bought some rather "jolly bright" bulbs for my Corsair, not been out at night as yet but they do appear much brighter than the original H4 halogen. I've recently seen one or two Classic Fords with the expensive 7" LED lamps, but tbh they really do look out of place on a classic. I'd just try different bulbs- the various bright white versions, or PIAA that sort of thing or as already mentioned the cough cough illegal wattage ones.
  14. Just fit one of those period spotlights on the rear like the rally boys did. I used to use my Anglia Van as a daily and it never had any reversing light on it. But i had so many near misses with people walking behind the van, even though it was moving mind, they used to shout out your reversing light aint working!! I did reply to one doris once with like your friggin eyesight. She wasn't impressed. I fitted a small period Lucas light in the end, I'd already fitted a 2000e box so fitting the switch wasn't an issue.
  15. Idiot/telltale light on the dashboard. I forgot to mention bit irrelevant now but some, but not all, very early mk2 before they went to single rail may also had reverse light hole too.
  16. Stock MK1 Cortinas with the 3 rail GB didn't have a switch hole unfortunately, so you will have to rig up either a manual switch/micro switch somehow. The only 3 rail boxes that had switch holes were the 2000e Corsair and I think some 3 rail Mexico's had them, but obviously quite rare. It is possible to modify the box to take one, but its a box out and take apart job. Have done it once but it was coming out anyway.
  17. Not put you off have I ?? sorry if i have.
  18. Yes check body work very carefully. Panels are scarce especially the front panel, wings and rear valance. These two in attached pic are mine. The blue one all the panels i got from Ireland at the time. I couldn't find a thing here in the UK apart from one sill. Some I got from Expressed- again expensive. The green one I've just bought some lower panels for too as this one is a rolling resto. Mechanically more or less identical to the Mk1 Cortina with a few subtle differences. As for value, they are on the up and decent ones are starting to fetch strong money. I would expect to pay at least 4k for for the one in OP pic, but like the others spotted, there does appear to be something going on with the drivers door bottom and the sill below it so check that out carefully. Not sure what is going on with the front left strut top cap cover either, is that starting to push through? cant quite make it out. Check inner wing strut areas very carefully. Check boot lid bottom edge too, hard to find decent boot lids. Another important area is the fuel tank. Prone to rotting out at the top where the boot mat sits, as water gets in the boot is soaked up by the mat and just rots the top out.
  19. Unless it was registered before 1st Jan 1968.
  20. Kenbex522


    Back on topic, A lot of the records were removed in the late 80's early 90's, ie untaxed reported scrap vehicles etc because their rubbish computer system of the time couldn't cope. So to free up space a lot of records were transferred to microfiche at central base Swansea. I know this because my missus worked in a DVLA local office until they closed. Sometimes it would take weeks to get info from them in these situations. I wouldn't imagine the process has speeded up any these days lol.
  21. Kenbex522


    In the words of the remaining Chuckle Brother...oh dear oh dear... ?
  22. Kenbex522


    In the words of the remaining Chuckle Brother...oh dear oh dear... ?
  23. Insurance mainly if you stay with the same company. There is no reason to be notifying anyone else. Just make sure everything is done properly with the proper parts and any old redundant holes are welded and cleaned up
  24. I saw on an importers website couple of weeks back that if the car is eligible for no MoT ie 40 years old, it no longer needs an MoT for first registration.
  25. Kenbex522


    Yes I know all that but the company they use doesn't do them for free do they, thats my point. It costs DVLA for each visit they do. So they only do them where they need to or suspect when something aint right. They're not going to do thousands of visits on hunch of someone ticking box on a website, because even SGS dont have that amount of staff.
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