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About mort

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  1. Mmm, I've taken my wiper partly to bits and found that the self park switches are two spring loaded copper rods, which bear on a wheel in the motor gearbox, I am currently washing the 40 yr old grease out to see what's what with a view to making another copper rod wiper as one of them looks to be too small to bear on the gearwheel. Pictures to follow
  2. I realise this topic is years old, but I have just got round to the wipers on my mk2 RS and found that I have an intermittant wipe position on the wiper switch. This isn't working properly so I am investigating. The intermittant wipe is done by means of a relay, which is in a red plastic box in my case at the back of the near side dash. I have just taken the relay out of its case and found that it contains a circuit board with capacitors and transistors on. This is a simple time delay circuit which triggers the relay coil for a predetermined time, set by a capacitor and preset variable resistor. If anyone is interested I 'll work out how the circuit is designed and post a circuit diagram. However I suspect that my problem may be in the wiper motor itself as the self park doesn't work either and I suspect that it is the self park which triggers the intermittant circuit.
  3. I have exactly the same problem, I replaced the seal but no better. So I investigated further and found that the shaft driving the speedo cable actually has a very thin sleeve on it and the leak is between the sleeve and the shaft, so changing the seal has no effect. I am going to have to get the gear and shaft out and replace it I guess. Has anyone else come across this construction?
  4. I've eventually repaired the degraded parts with fibreglass and body filler. I then bought some moonstone putty vinyl from Martrim. Turns out to be an exact match for the colour on the inside surface of the C pillar trim, just shows how much it has faded. I then stuck the vinyl on the plastic with contact adhesive. Put it all back and it looks just like new, very pleased with it. I also drilled a small hole in the trim where the markings for the rear seat belt fastening are. This would save me having to take it off again if I need to fit rear seat belts as I could just drill through the plastic panel to pick up the nut on the C pillar. The nuts are already welded in the body from new. All the other mounting points are in place so it would just need a pair of seat belts to fit, which I think Burtons do.
  5. I have a peculiar set of chrome wheel nuts, which need a 7/16"Whitworth spanner. The thread obviously fits correctly but instead of having a flat washer, the washer is tapered and doesn't seem to fit correctly. Anyone met these nuts before please?
  6. That's great, thanks everybody. The price is not so great though..I might try making a mould and casting them myself unless I can find some for about !5 quid
  7. My light cream plastic trim on the rear pillars have UV degraded and I need to replace them. Does anyone know of a supplier or a way of malking new ones? Thanks
  8. here you go. The first one shows the tile trim glued to a wood strip, the trim is then cut along the red line with a Dremel type wheel. The ends are then rounded off with a hammer on a suitable sized bolt. You then have to utilise the original steel mounting strip which you araldite the trim onto, as you haven't got the edges on the trim formed to slide the mounting strip into. Be very careful not to scratch or damage the tile trim that you are cutting off and using as it comes with a lacquered finish and can't be sanded or polished. The third picture shows the finished article mounted on the door
  9. On to the next challenge. The front seat upholstery and supports has been "mended" and you sink into it like you're off to Australia. Does anybody have pictures of the construction of the upholstery on a RS custom seat, or knows of a website that will give details of how to do a half decent job of re-upholstering front seats. Including the seat pad supports and how the fixings to the frame is arranged Thanks
  10. Well, I couldn't find what I wanted so I bought a metal tile trim from B&Q, cut off the piece that normally goes behind the tiles, cut it to length, peened over the ends to make a hemisphere end as original. Araldited it onto the spring steel backing, the one with the lugs on, and replaced on door card. Although I say it myself, it is impossible to see any difference from the original. Very pleased with the result.
  11. well mine is definitely yellow..perhaps that's why it doesn't show the right temperature.. I shall have to take it out and measure the resistance at 100deg. C to check... There seems to be yellow, green, white, purple, black...How irritating there doesn't seem to be a website giving the parameters of these animals.
  12. Ah, but is the colour of band significant and if so what does it denote?
  13. Ah, I've found out..The NTC sensor in the head has a yellow band on and is approx 180 ohms cold and 13 Ohms hot. If I put the lead in series with a 10 ohm resistor the gauge reads just over halfway on the temp. scale
  14. Could somebody give me the typical hot and cold resistance values for the temperature sensor please? I an not sure that my sensor/gauge is working correctly. Thanks
  15. I'm trying to redo the wiring on my RS, which is heavily into twisted wiring joins covered in PVC tape. I'm either replacing the complete wire or redoing the twisted joints with soldered joints and covering with two layers of heat shrink sleeve. The ignition coil is currently located on the NS inner wing fairly low down near the crossmember. Is this where they were originally located does anyone know please?
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