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Dawnrazer

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About Dawnrazer

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    SY13

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  1. What's the general concensus with regards to Atlas width and bubble arches? I'm looking to use an Atlas to fit to a Mk1 that will have bubble arches. Currently it doesn't so can't test fit as yet. When finished I'm thinking a 50" Atlas, converted for disc brakes and 8J Minilight wheels will be ok. Wheels have -6 offset. Can anyone advise if this is likely to be a problem? Never used Atlas before so can pretty much pick the width on this one. What are you guys using currently? Don't need the rims mega tight on the arches, but equally don't want to lose them in there... 😎
  2. Job done. 👍 I should leaen not to be such a wuss when it comes to glass. Had a MK1 Elba camper and got 90% windscreen out before it shattered. Scared the crap out of me! 😵
  3. Anyone got any tips for getting the glass out before I ruin something? From the inside or outside? Corners or middle? This stuff terrifies me since my last windscreen ended up in aound a gazillion tiny pieces! Appreciate the middle strip needs removing first on front and back. Also, perspex replacements - anyone have any reviews on them?
  4. Job done. Still pretty tight but both together seems to be the way. 💪
  5. If I was feeling brave enough, maybe! Still need a rolling shell for now though so figured easier the other way....😌
  6. cheers guys. Had kinda come to the conclusion all in one go, but advice always welcome! Luckily I have no battery tray and most components are already off. Will get to some pics if I remember tomorrow but I'm also doing it on my own so may get a little carried away
  7. Anyone know if it's possible to remove a 2ltr pinto from a Mk1 and not the gear box at the same time? Its fitted with an RS sump and standard x member but looks awfully (in fact too) close to the sump as if it wouldn't move forward enough to seperate from the gear box anyway. Is isn't an RS car and I didn't fit it! Is it easier/possible to take both at the same time or take off prop and drop the box out first? I don't want the engine anyway so brute force is available! It's tomorrow's job, so any advice appreciated. Forgotten how much I hated the engine mounts on a Mk1. Can't get to the damned nuts inside the cross mounts!
  8. Thanks for the replies chaps. Most informative. No, it won't be rallied and is for road use only, but last time I did this conversion I used the WCXM as it was easier to make my own mounts. there weren't kits available back then. There's even a letter in CF I wrote where they advised me NOT to do the swap as it was too tricky and untried....how things changed. They even sent me some classic car oil as It was star letter! Usless.... As for pictures, when I get round to stripping I shall add some. The car is under wraps for now whilst I try and decide what route to go down. Thanks again for the input. I like this place!
  9. Evenin. New here so please don't shout if I've put this in the wrong place. I've recently come into possession of one of the first Mk1's Reg 01st Feb 68. I think this was the earliest date you could have one? No matter. The shell is pretty good to be fair, and I've owned a lot worse, though not had an escy for around 15 years now. Sadly it's been messed with and has a wheezing pinto with RS running gear I think all round and a T9 box. My main concern is the lack of front end stability with more horsepower. I'm going the zetec route eventually having done this conversion years back. Will a WC Xmember fit onto this shell and is it easy to covert to post 1970 Escort front legs and antiroll bar etc? My memory fails me but did the early Twinks have anti roll bars with double width kits? I don't want much power, say around 170bhp, but suspect the current method of sticking to the road may struggle. With a shell like this it's almost sad to covert it, but so much has been changed I might as well go the whole hog. Any help or advice appreciated.
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