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About stupiddad

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  1. Thanks dt36, just checked out the RS2000, explains the avatar image- looks wicked. I think I will just press on and smooth the chamber edges without doing too much else, seems a shame but it is the safest course and, now that HMG says I can leave the house and visit shops from 5th July, I can just take the head to Crewe and do some paint prep while its warm. Appreciate the help and advice. Will get the valve seat relieved as you suggested, if I'm not chasing revs it makes no difference to the lift so why not.
  2. Thanks dt36, just checked out the RS2000, explains the avatar image- looks wicked. I think I will just press on and smooth the chamber edges without doing too much else, seems a shame but it is the safest course and, now that HMG says I can leave the house and visit shops from 5th July, I can just take the head to Crewe and do some paint prep while its warm. Appreciate the help and advice.
  3. dt36 Thanks for straightening me out on the name point. Katana I'm sorry you feel that the question is impossible, it obviously isn't and given dt36s warning regarding lowering the target CR it is quite important . The numbers below are dummy numbers to avoid using algebra and are merely used to illustrate potential or possible answers. Given the cam and valve setup, which I specified in my earlier post and that the head is virgin and unmolested which I also mentioned earlier, one possible answer is " With the FR30 and standard 1600 valves and without any work to the chamber skimming 20 thou gave me 9.75:1 with a 1.75mm gasket" another possible answer is " I had 80 thou in mind but it broke into a gallery before it got there unfortunately", another is " I took 6cc of metal from each chamber and a 20 thou skim gave me 10:1 with a .75mm gasket". Posting without reading the thread is of little help, but thank you for your time..
  4. Tool polisher I'm sorry I have no idea. Sir See my post on 17/6 I don't do that and here's why, you can do it however you wish. Your viewpoint presumes I am either reckless or already have the knowledge I am looking for i.e. the amount that can be skimmed and leave adequate valve to piston clearance with the cam and valve setup and therefore how much metal can safely be removed working on the chamber. As valves open on an angle the measured clearance does not translate to the amount of skimming necessary and it requires more complicated maths and more precise measurement than I have at my command to derive one from the other. As you know, the porting is unrelated to the CR and it doesn't matter when that is done. Shaping the combustion chambers without knowing your limit parameters runs the risk of removing too much metal, leaving a clean flowing head with less compression than you need for a decent burn with high street fuel even with a minimal gasket and that means its scrap unless you reduce the cam lift to increase your piston clearance and skim again. I'm trying to avoid expensive mistakes by seeking what is probably existing knowledge and guidance, rather than having to throw away historic parts or making do with something less than I wanted by being too enthusiastic with the die grinder . If I know how much is, in theory, removable from an unmolested head for the intended setup I can calculate the maximum amount of metal I have to play with in the combustion chamber and plan the work, remeasuring volume as I go. I measure the chamber volumes as precisely as I can at home, which is probably +/- 3% in practice, if I am really careful, as a guideline, but I am prone to making mistakes, which is why I like to check first so that I can profit by other peoples experience and, sometimes, their mistakes. Once the home chamber work is done the engineer can make more precise measurements of gas flow and chamber volume, balancing out each chamber, then skim as required. I have found this method to work well in the past and to be economical.
  5. Thanks for the input on compression, I am happy to be guided by you. RE. valves and springs The head and stem sizes quoted in the haynes book of lies for standard versions are the same, as are the valve spring free and compressed lengths. This achieved by varying the stem length, Inlet 4.449 (1600) 4.376 (2000) Exhaust 4.431 (1600) 4.35 (2000) If you factor in the quoted production tolerances +/- 0.016 and you get 4.376 + .032 or 4.408 making the disparity in length .041 of an inch for inlet and similar .045 for exhaust so i am going to try it with original 1600 valves, seats and springs for slightly higher lift which is the point of the exercise. Check with a 40 thou feeler gauge to see the difference. I do not recommend grinding into the hardened top of 1600 valves to reduce the length. Thankfully the advice on compression with the cam means less skimming so more distance between valve and piston, if the putty says still not enough I will fit standard 2.0 valves. This exercise is intended to uprate to a better road driver for the least money possible and without resource to anybody else, save for changing the compression by skimming the head, which is a step that could be skipped if CCing the combustion chambers suggest a compression of anything above 9.85:1 apparently as you can increase this to about 10:1 with choice of head gasket. Thanks to Spammer for that. Sierra 1600 head with hardened exhaust seats and good valves £50, Weber 28/30 DFTH, also from a 1.6 sierra, and manifold £50 plus gasket set and valve oil rail £36. I will admit to being lucky with finding a 1600 head already fitted with a 2000 cam on ebay for £60 without hardened seats. Oh yes £11 to Amazon for the set of bits for the porting, already had the dremel. 35 horses for £200 and better fuel consumption seems an OK deal to me. Actually I fitted the first sierra head to the spare lump so knock £50 off. The bonus with the Weber, which is a much better carb and more fuel efficient and can be fitted in 30 minutes, is that is has a water temp controlled choke so no electrics or electronics just 1 yard of tubing and it starts on the key whatever the weather. I make no apology for using preSI units as I am a a preSI person. This turned out longer than I meant but I wanted to be as clear as possible.
  6. Oh yes I forgot the compression point. What I am after is to learn how much the head can be skimmed to leave a reasonable gap for stretch at 6000 rpm with the FR30 fitted, using a fairly thick multi layer gasket as I don't like thin ones except for high performance engines which this is not intended to be. I can do this and have the engineer check but a figure from someone who knows would be a good starting place. I can then determine how much, if anything, I can do to relieve the shrouding in the combustion chamber and still have 11:1, which is sort of the reverse to checking combustion chamber size and then working out what you can mill off. Thank you all for your interest and your input, glad to be able to share information with Sir about modern pintos.
  7. I probably confused some of you earlier so here's what I should have said, it isn't actually a 2.0 head it is a 1.6 head with a 2.0 cam fitted. I refer to it in my head as the 2.0 head because it has the 2.0 cam. Nobody wants 1.6 heads so I have four with different descriptions, half cut , full cut etc. at £30 to £50 with good valves they are a bit of a bargain and I know I can f*&k up even simple things, so spares are comforting.. I agree 11:1 is about as far as you should go with cast pistons, the engine has been in the car for forty odd years and the bottom end has not been touched as it is a 34,000 mile engine which sounds and drives as tight as a drum. It is just a bit underpowered for its weight in modern traffic, I don't want to fit a five speed gearbox and I have a mate looking for a limited slip diff for the salisbury with the right ratio to reduce cruising revs on the motorway and help in the twisty stuff.. The carb is a Weber 28/30 dfth as fitted to 1.6 pinto in sierras for many years and I am not looking for huge performance from what has always been a bottom of the range family car but nevertheless about 95 to 100 bhp should be achievable at low cost with economic cruising. It is a long time since I raced about the streets in a car although I do occasionally stretch the legs on the FJ. As of yet the head has not seen an engineer, only a dremel for the porting. I have followed advice re relieving the tight curl above the valve seat and taken a little from the bulk under the valve guides, measured with wooden .forms to ensure consistency, as well as taking the ridge from the valve's head. The head was bought already fitted with the cam and perhaps the relieving was done when the cam was fitted, I have checked on the bench and and cannot find any sign of binding, is it likely to be different at high revs? I only pay people to do things I can't afford the tools for, wherever possible, as playing with vehicles is my hobby. Just seen two more replies notified so I'll post this now.
  8. I have finally finished the porting on my 2.0 head and yesterday I managed to put a new core plug in the rear of the block, no not the head the block. By the way if anyone else is doing engine out/in as a lone hand you can save some time by tying the back plate on through the dowels, supporting the gearbox with a bottle or rolling jack and centring the box with a ratchet strap over the wing. Sorry didn't think to take images but the locations are reasonably obvious. Anyway back to the 2.0 head, the engineer I'm entrusting with the work wants me to specify or provide valve stem seals that will survive the higher lift ( the point of doing it ) and apart from the Burton articles , which do not seem to have earned universal acclaim, I have no idea where they might be sourced or the spec. to quote, so can any of you knowledgeable engine gurus point me at the right things. If you care to clue me in on relieving the shrouding v. compression and how much it can take in terms of skimming the stock head and 2.0 cam for about 11:1 and 6000 rpm I would be a very happy bunny indeed. Like everybody else Mr Vizzard has very little to say about the 1.6 except get a 2.0 ( or better) but I need Bob to remain original or arguably so, I couldn't find a good carb to replace the single venturi ford so I've had to make do with a dfth from a sierra, but with insurance at £56 a year and no tax I'll try to cope, us pensioners have to watch the pennies.
  9. I have spent hours flushing my heater rad in my Mk 4 Cortina using different products including the Harpic with phosphoric acid and never achieved any significant increase in flow or heat transfer. The last straw was rusty water in the passenger footwell so I bought a new rad from demister man, took ten minutes to fit requiring only marginal relieving of the holes in the front plate. It came with a strip of self adhesive foam and I used some halved pipe lagging to ensure a snug fit which I taped on with duct tape. When I was bleeding the topped up coolant sysem I cracked the jubilee on the top heater pipe which is the highest part of the system; I was astonished to see a jet of water emerge rather than a rusty trickle and the demist vents issued hot rather than mildly warm air . My advice is don't bother messing around with an aging heater rad buy a new one, it will keep the interior of the car dry and warm and keep the windscreen clear of fogging and condensation. It is easy to fit needing only a crosshead and a flat screwdriver on mine. If you do remove your heater rad for any reason make sure you unhook the battery first as it comes close to the ignition starter solenoid when drawn from the heater box. Nice warm toasty feet too.
  10. So do you have the strong angular jawline necessary to carry it off, the Katana thing I mean. I used to love mine but it went in favour of the FJ12. Yamaha all through, hardtail xs 650 when I finish the coupe. If god spares me. Nothing tingles like a parallel twin.
  11. Thank you Vista, that thread will take a while to understand, meantime will share my issues with theheater.
  12. Hello and thank you Vista, been reviewing the topic and noticed one or two good ideas and a couple of dire warnings.
  13. Thanks for that Katana-didn't you used to be a Suzuki
  14. Hi I'm an old fart with time on my hands who bought a Ford Escort 1.3 new, please note there was no mark 1, ( on any old ford) and has driven all sorts of fords since. My Mk4 Cortina has been well used since being dragged from the barn and now it's free of ved and mot with cheap insurance its probably worth doing some of the jobs I have been putting off for a while. Currently that means backache from trying to get hot air flow to demist because all the perished foam has fallen down into the diverter blocking both up and down airflow while leaving high speed ambient (very cold) air fine. My next trick will be to visit a mate while I have the heater box off and see if we can blow it clear. It drives well with poly bushes most places and pulls fairly well with Weber water choke carb from a 1.6 Sierra , DFTH I think offhand, and some home porting. Next head upgrade is to skim a 1.6 head fitted with 2.0 cam and hardened exhaust ports which is currently being gently ported. When the tin worm or speed humps have seen to the exhaust I will be looking for a four branch and 2" (probably). As the gearbox is the original 4 speed I will be looking for a better diff at some point since the 1st gear is ludicrously low if you are not pulling a caravan, but that will have to wait until I am getting something closer to 100bhp than 65. For my sins I also have a phase 1 (yes there is a phase 1) 916 Alfa Spider 2.0 TS on which some of the electrics work, which ones vary from day to day and is one of the more involving things about trying to get places in an Alfa. I am working on my Peugeot 406 coupe 3.0 V6 which will hopefully be on the road in the spring. Fantastic cruiser for silly money until I broke it. What is vexing me at the moment, and the reason I finally got round to registering, is instrument cluster bulbs, there appear to be three different types, 3 larger panel illuminators, the warning light/telltales with finally the rear window heater switch bulb. I have ordered some T5 leds which I hope will sort the warning lights but I don't know what the other two types are. I have a few tools and some experience so would be happy to help if anybody local was stuck.
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