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About BeigeAl

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  • Birthday 02/09/1980

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  1. Looks like a 1300 sump, no scallops to clear big ends of a 1600.
  2. A 32/32 has 23/24 chokes, a 32/36 has 26/27. A A proper 1500gt 28/36 DCD has 26/27 chokes from the factory. That means the 28/36 DCD and the DGV 32/36 have the same size chokes. Where they are different is the size in the barrel size at the manifold end - ie 28/36 DCD has a 28mm primary and a 36mm secondary, whereas a 32/32 has 32mm opening on both primary and secondary on the barrel opening, a 32/36 has a 32mm on the primary and a 36mm on the secondary. In reference to changing choke sizes made elsewhere in the thread it is not possible to change the chokes in a 32/32 or 32/36 DGV as they are "cast-in". Because of this the DGV has the choke size written on the barrel exterior. Partly because of this I much prefer the DCD to a DGV as it is a much more tunable carburetor and reminds me slightly of an upright DCOE in the way it works when compared with a DGV. The only part you can remove/change in the barrel of the 32/32 and 32/36 are the auxiliary venturis. In terms of the O/P's issue the DGV and the DCD should have the fuel pump jet squirting fuel down the primary barrel, which is easy to check when looking down the carb (from the top if carb is in your hand as the other way may give your eyes a wash-out with petrol!!) and opening the throttle. I find a good check is to have the engine running with the air filter off. Then using a good torch check what fuel is being delivered in which barrel at different openings. You will see fuel being sprayed from the fuel pump nozzle but you should also see if both auxiliary venturis (one for each barrel) are delivering fuel of similar quantites. If they are dripping fuel under running that is no good - it should be more of a mist, or even a "curtain" of fuel. Beyond that you will need some jets etc and a bit of patience,
  3. You can buy pump jet nozzles that spray into either the primary or secondary separately, or you can buy one that does both at a time. Is that carb a DGV carb? Doesn't look like a proper 1500gt carb (ie DCD 28/36), I'm almost certain it's not a DCD as yours has choke flaps. Where did you get your jetting figures / settings from? One thing that does spring to mind - did you put the aux venturi's in correctly and not blocking off the main delivery channel? They can go in the carb in two ways but only work properly one way. You'll see how they're meant to be if you remove them.
  4. A family member of mine worked on the development of this project at Laycocks Engineering (of overdrive gearboxes fame). Unfortunately I don't know much more about it as the family member now lives overseas.
  5. Never heard of brass bushes - from what I remember of what were in mine from the factory they were tin backed aluminium and then a Teflon coating on top.
  6. Sorry this is a bit late but these blocks should be treated as original 711m blocks - max bore @ 83.5mm, and if boring to bigger size than that you should be having bore-wall thickness-testing done.
  7. 0-7mm toe in according to Haynes manual.
  8. I think the later Type 3 (there are two types of type 3 gearbox) was the only one fitted to a pinto and as far as I know it was only on the 1.6litre pinto. I wouldn't fit a type 3 behind a 2litre pinto. Not an overly strong gearbox. Certainly not as strong as a Type E. In my opinion if you're going to fit a type E jut fit a type 9 instead.
  9. It's possible, you'll need either or both a thin/modified jackshaft to clear the con rods and maybe non-Ford con-rods and thinner diameter big end journals ie big end journals ground down to a smaller size (if not already done) to avoid the jackshaft. Shorter pistons needed so that they don't clatter the crank webs at the bottom of the stroke as you'll already be needing short con rods to give you enough room. You'll likely need custom made short pistons, and maybe rods depending on how it's all worked out. There's likely to be rods that'll work with mods but really not one part of this proposed route is going to be straight forward compared with "normal" modifying. 85mm bore size possible on a 711m but you might ruin a couple of blocks before you get there. The bores might not break through but they may be thin depending on age and how centrally the reboring work is done. People will say " I had an 85mm and it had no problems" but how many did have problems? Engines like this ought to be treated as development engines as it's outside of usual parameters. By that I mean expect some hiccups along the way! It's not a straight forward answer but I think 87-88mm stroke is about the limit on a crossflow block when used with a twincam head.
  10. Why not just set one set of valves with 0.050" lash plus the relevant normal valve lash? Save machining anything twice then!
  11. Why don't you fit right angle plug leads so that you can keep the dizzy and still clear underneath your carb(s)? Cheaper option!
  12. I know how a car looks to its owner is important (and I think wider wheels do look much better) but going around a track faster is better than going slowly but looking awesome! - just check out the racing Lotus Cortinas that ran on 13x5.5" wheels! 180+bhp too and they managed on slim wheels! Perhaps drop back fractionally on wheel size to give you more clearance and you might get away with a tyre with slightly less stretch that still clears the arches.
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