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About BeigeAl

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  • Birthday 02/09/1980

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  1. If you get the early Type 3 the input shaft is shorter so you might need to skim the bellhousing. If you use the later Type 3 the input shaft is longer so you could be OK. However, in both applications you need to check that the release bearing carrier nose (ie the bit that protrudes from the gearbox, but not the input shaft) doesn't hit the fingers of the clutch. Some combinations will mean that WILL happen. You also need to check that the input shaft doesn't go too deep into the crankshaft (ie bottoming) which may stop the gearbox being mated to the engine. Skimming should be the same as getting a head skimmed, but you don't want to make it too thin. We're only talking taking a few millimetres off it. You will only be skimming the bellhousing, not the gearbox itself. Basically you need to do a lot of checking.
  2. I think they were designed for pinto but they have the same bolt-spacing as a crossflow and it's possible some crossflow capris had them. I can't confirm though as I've never really looked into Capri stuff. Not sure on what Mk it is. Note that Type 9 bellhousings look similar but while it will bolt to a crossflow it won't bolt to a 3 rail or Type 3 gearbox. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-2000-CAPRI-BELL-HOUSING/184013520501?hash=item2ad80f7e75:g:WrAAAOSw1ABduEhE https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Cortina-Escort-Capri-Sierra-gearbox-bell-housing-3038E/193195834751?hash=item2cfb5e7d7f:g:8-4AAOSwruxbGEFc And then there's a LHD one (which I know you don't want, but interesting all the same!) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-capri-mk2-1600cc-LHD-BELLHOUSING/362444228881?fits=Model%3ACapri&hash=item54635c0911:g:Pq0AAOSwKjha4FI9
  3. That's the same as the one I'm thinking of. Part number could be 3038e 7505 or 3036e 7505. As said there's only one that fits the gearbox and has a cable clutch. If you search for Capri bellhousing in Google or Ebay you're likely to find some results.
  4. No problem. I know the thread you're talking about on Turbosport - the username of the guy who did it was Wildo105e or something? That's the only cable clutch bellhousing to fit 3 rail and Type 3 gearboxes. Looks similar to a Type 9 one but of course, the 4 bolts to bolt it to the gearbox are different to a Type 9. I think the part number is 3036 7505
  5. Fiesta steering rack sounds a good way to go then if you're not moving the engine crossmember and the TCA's pivot in the same place as the balls at the end of the tie rods on the rack! Really the only option you have for a bellhousing is a capri bellhousing but it may need skimming slightly on the gearbox side mounting face IF it ends up too deep. If I've got a Capri bellhousing I'll get you a photo of it to show you what they look like.
  6. Propshaft will fit a Type 3 gearbox from either early type (ie mk2 cortina) or the later type from mk3 cortina onwards. Later Type 3 gearboxes have a longer input shaft (approx 3/4" IIRC, due to being coupled to Pintos) which means the bellhousings for them are deeper - if you use one with a mk1 or mk2 bellhousing it's possible the input shaft will stick out beyond the bellhousing face. If you use a cable clutch bellhousing with a late Type 3 gearbox (ie long input shaft) it will push your gearbox further back - you may need to slot your gearbox to chassis mount. Possibly moving the gearbox back may affect propshaft in terms of prop not being able to be engaged into the back of the gearbox. Never heard of a mk1 fiesta rack working in a mk1 cortina as a steering rack conversion - even with mk1 and mk2 escort racks people have had issues with steering geometry problems. Steering rack conversions are known to push the engine and gearbox a couple of inches further back affecting everything behind them. If the engine goes back 2 inches, so do the engine mounts, gearbox mounts and propshaft entry. Type 3 cable clutch bellhousings will fit both types of Type 3 gearbox plus the 3 rail gearboxes, although you'll need to check how far the input shaft protrudes and if it engages with the crank spigot bearing correctly.
  7. Propshaft won't fit (different spline shapes) and will probably be the wrong length unless the gearbox you want to use is exactly the same length as the old one. Starter motor will be on the other side to the cortina gearbox. For what it's worth I think that the Type 2 gearbox is a step back - there's a reason the mk1 escort mexico, Twincam and RS1600 used the 3 rail 2000e gearboxes (apart from the ratios) - the synchros are stronger in a 3 rail gearbox. Your standard 3 rail gearbox isn't much different to a 2000e gearbox in terms of internals. Why not just buy a cheap standard cortina 3 rail gearbox and fit that? It would be easier providing it's a good 'box.
  8. Looks like a 1300 sump, no scallops to clear big ends of a 1600.
  9. A 32/32 has 23/24 chokes, a 32/36 has 26/27. A A proper 1500gt 28/36 DCD has 26/27 chokes from the factory. That means the 28/36 DCD and the DGV 32/36 have the same size chokes. Where they are different is the size in the barrel size at the manifold end - ie 28/36 DCD has a 28mm primary and a 36mm secondary, whereas a 32/32 has 32mm opening on both primary and secondary on the barrel opening, a 32/36 has a 32mm on the primary and a 36mm on the secondary. In reference to changing choke sizes made elsewhere in the thread it is not possible to change the chokes in a 32/32 or 32/36 DGV as they are "cast-in". Because of this the DGV has the choke size written on the barrel exterior. Partly because of this I much prefer the DCD to a DGV as it is a much more tunable carburetor and reminds me slightly of an upright DCOE in the way it works when compared with a DGV. The only part you can remove/change in the barrel of the 32/32 and 32/36 are the auxiliary venturis. In terms of the O/P's issue the DGV and the DCD should have the fuel pump jet squirting fuel down the primary barrel, which is easy to check when looking down the carb (from the top if carb is in your hand as the other way may give your eyes a wash-out with petrol!!) and opening the throttle. I find a good check is to have the engine running with the air filter off. Then using a good torch check what fuel is being delivered in which barrel at different openings. You will see fuel being sprayed from the fuel pump nozzle but you should also see if both auxiliary venturis (one for each barrel) are delivering fuel of similar quantites. If they are dripping fuel under running that is no good - it should be more of a mist, or even a "curtain" of fuel. Beyond that you will need some jets etc and a bit of patience,
  10. You can buy pump jet nozzles that spray into either the primary or secondary separately, or you can buy one that does both at a time. Is that carb a DGV carb? Doesn't look like a proper 1500gt carb (ie DCD 28/36), I'm almost certain it's not a DCD as yours has choke flaps. Where did you get your jetting figures / settings from? One thing that does spring to mind - did you put the aux venturi's in correctly and not blocking off the main delivery channel? They can go in the carb in two ways but only work properly one way. You'll see how they're meant to be if you remove them.
  11. A family member of mine worked on the development of this project at Laycocks Engineering (of overdrive gearboxes fame). Unfortunately I don't know much more about it as the family member now lives overseas.
  12. Never heard of brass bushes - from what I remember of what were in mine from the factory they were tin backed aluminium and then a Teflon coating on top.
  13. Sorry this is a bit late but these blocks should be treated as original 711m blocks - max bore @ 83.5mm, and if boring to bigger size than that you should be having bore-wall thickness-testing done.
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