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About BeigeAl

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  • Birthday 02/09/1980

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  1. Basically there are early and late tailcasings and selector rod mechanisms and you need to have the right combination otherwise gears are going to be difficult to get! Selector parts and tailcasings are not interchangeable between the different types. You also need to select the reverse gear when taking the rear case off and 4th gear when putting it back on otherwise you'll be like a man with a fork trying to eat soup. They are fiddly to set-up once you've got the right parts but not so hard that they can't be done if following a workshop manual. The later gearbox with the rai
  2. Looks like a 1300 sump, no scallops to clear big ends of a 1600.
  3. A family member of mine worked on the development of this project at Laycocks Engineering (of overdrive gearboxes fame). Unfortunately I don't know much more about it as the family member now lives overseas.
  4. 0-7mm toe in according to Haynes manual.
  5. I think the later Type 3 (there are two types of type 3 gearbox) was the only one fitted to a pinto and as far as I know it was only on the 1.6litre pinto. I wouldn't fit a type 3 behind a 2litre pinto. Not an overly strong gearbox. Certainly not as strong as a Type E. In my opinion if you're going to fit a type E jut fit a type 9 instead.
  6. Why don't you fit right angle plug leads so that you can keep the dizzy and still clear underneath your carb(s)? Cheaper option!
  7. I've got a complete diff in nice condition with genuine Ford CWP, nice gear teeth, no rust in the gear teeth etc. £275. I can package if you send your own courier.
  8. This is to fit a 1100/1300 rear bowl xflow engine - my very original mk2 1300 escort (which has a 711m 1300 block) came with one and all of the other 1100/1300 engines I bought came with one too. Numbers crossover - it doesn't mean it's only for a vehicle designated with "751" - for example a Lotus twincam has an anglia 105e dipstick.
  9. 1.75 imperial pints - it's all in the manuals! They are useful - if you haven't got one now's the time!
  10. If ou have the standard 3 rail cortina box you'll need 75/90 mineral GL4 oil (do not use GL5), and for a standard rear axle an EP80/90 hypoid GL5 is what you need. I normally use Comma oils for axle and gearbox.
  11. That's good news, glad it's all sorted. Just goes to show what these parts can withstand (ie pitting).
  12. Backlash is 0.005-0.007" - if it's tighter than that there's an issue, and the bottom and top limit need to be quite close so you wouldn't want 0.005" at the tightest spot and 0.015" at the loosest - you'd want tightest ideally at 0.005" and loosest ideally no more than 0.007". Love the spanners in the boot comment!
  13. Sounds a bit ominous! Is there corresponding corrosion on the pinion head over-run side? I wonder if some moisture has got in and sat on top of the oil and caused those marks where the teeth have have contacting? Has the car been sat over-winter?
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