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Waterless coolant !


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never had any probs before i had a crossflow that ran hot changed the stat for a colder one made little differace put water wetter in an reduced the temperture a fair bit enough to make me put the original stat back in when i broke the car for bits i found i almost blocked the inlet manifold heater outlet to heater with silcone :oops:

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I have bought 2 x 5 ltr Power 180 for my RS2000

 

As my engine is a "fresh rebuild" there is no water in the block and the radiator is totally dry inside

 

I have had to use workshop airline to blow out ALL traces of water from the heater matrix

 

There is a water flush additive available but in my case engine not been in car for a year so have been able to dry out all components

 

I have done a lot of homework before spending £110 to "cool" my engine !!!

 

This fluid does not freeze till -40 deg/c and will not boil till it reaches 180 deg/c

 

The best bit is that until it boils the fluid will not increase the pressure within the cooling system

 

Get your engine roasting hot say for example 120deg/c and you will be able to remove rad cap without any coolant blowing out as what would happen with water/anti-freeze

 

BUT BUT BUT

 

I can not stress this enough if you do not FULLY DRAIN any old water from your system then Evans Waterless Coolant will have water particles within it and they will consequently boil

 

Also you can ONLY top up (say a hose bursts or you replace rad or thermostat etc) with EWC hence reason I purchased 10 ltr

 

Once I have finished my rebuild I will update on how EWC performs

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Sounds pretty intense:-|

 

 

The theory behind the concept is sound lets hope the application is as good !!!

 

When you look into the science of water as a coolant then the theory makes a lot of sense to go Waterless

 

Engines run efficient at apprx 90 deg/c yet water boils into steam at 100 deg/c

 

Water freezes at 0 deg/c yet we often suffer temps below this figure here in the UK

 

So when a rad cap is added it allows the water to boil at a higher temperature say 110 deg/c but a performance engine or an engine that usually suffers poor air flow or cooling properties will reach 100+ deg/c within no time at all - so the water will still boil

 

Note:- once water boils it is unable to transfer heat from the engine to the radiator so no cooling can take place

 

The addition of anti-freeze to water will actually lower the freezing point BUT this will also have a dterimental effect on the boiling point so again it not hard to boil the water/AF mix

 

EWC can be put into a domestic kettle and it will not boil unless it reached 180 deg/c - it will still get hot which allows heat to be transfered to radiator but will not boil

 

Hope this makes sense ???????

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Lol Dave you hero :mrgreen:

 

 

You mean what I said made sense to you ? :thumbsup::lol:

 

 

Yep I have a pint glass for my Stella lol

 

 

Actually Stella Artois has an alcohol content of 5.2% so it may work as an antifreeze - lol

 

Not sure how good Stella 4% or Cidre would perform though !

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Sounds pretty intense:-|

 

 

The theory behind the concept is sound lets hope the application is as good !!!

 

When you look into the science of water as a coolant then the theory makes a lot of sense to go Waterless

 

Engines run efficient at apprx 90 deg/c yet water boils into steam at 100 deg/c

 

Water freezes at 0 deg/c yet we often suffer temps below this figure here in the UK

 

So when a rad cap is added it allows the water to boil at a higher temperature say 110 deg/c but a performance engine or an engine that usually suffers poor air flow or cooling properties will reach 100+ deg/c within no time at all - so the water will still boil

 

Note:- once water boils it is unable to transfer heat from the engine to the radiator so no cooling can take place

 

The addition of anti-freeze to water will actually lower the freezing point BUT this will also have a dterimental effect on the boiling point so again it not hard to boil the water/AF mix

 

EWC can be put into a domestic kettle and it will not boil unless it reached 180 deg/c - it will still get hot which allows heat to be transfered to radiator but will not boil

 

Hope this makes sense ???????

 

 

I knew it...there just had to be someone on this site with a brain..Many thanks for your input,keep us posted.. excellent :thumbsup:

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sounds great, also from a safety point of view aswell because once water is under pressure it raises the boiling point as Dave said to say 110 deg/c but once that hits the air (say a burst hose) it turns into steam and can cuase a nasty injury :thumbsup:

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This sounds good, I look forward to hearing how you get on.

Just a few questions tho.

What is the life expectancy of the fluid?

Will it affect any gaskets/rubbers to perish? (Especially on old cars)

What effects will it have on rust already in the system?

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No but i use coolantless water :)

 

 

nice.... comimg from someone with NO car .. :hush:

 

OI !! i have got a brain you know i was trying to be comical :mrgreen:

 

Well i thought it was funny anyhoo, grumpy man :(

 

:cuddle:

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This sounds good, I look forward to hearing how you get on.

Just a few questions tho.

What is the life expectancy of the fluid?

Will it affect any gaskets/rubbers to perish? (Especially on old cars)

What effects will it have on rust already in the system?

 

 

Found the Q+A's section but will e-mail em regarding existing corrosion

 

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/faqs.html

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