Plz help pinto now fitted but wont start!!

[1300e ian]

Hi ive swapped the 1.6 engine on my van for a 2.0 pinto with type 9 box.

It was running before i removed it but now wont start.

Ive fitted new battery to starter cable, new starter( from burtons), new coil, new dizzy cap, rotor, leads and plugs.

Strong spark to dizzy, slightly weaker at plugs but still spark.

When i press the throttle i can see fuel jetting into the carb.

The engine turns over but doesnt even try to fire. When i pump the throttle cranking it somtimes pops thru the carb.

It started the first time i tried but ran rough and white smoke out the exhaust before i let go of the throttle and it stopped.

The leads were on the wrong way.

Now fitted fire order 1342 but not been able to start it since.

Ive noticed today that after cranking it that it is dripping fuel off the plate between the engine and gearbox? Its not near the fuel line could the pressure of cranking be pushing it out somwhere?

Any help would be great ive spent a few weeks on it and not getting anywhere

Thanks

[RWL81P]

i take it the dizzy is the correct place? timing. the inlet manifold gasket is in good condition and not sucking air in? and any vac pipes are sealed up?

[1300e ian]

I didnt move the dizzy when swapping the engine but have slightly ajusted it either way to see if it made a difference.

Ive got a vac pipe from by the brake cylinder to inlet manifold and a small one from dizzy to carb.

There are 2 others another by the dizzy and another on the inlet manifold but they are blocked off

[colr6]

You may have the firing order correct but did you start in the correct position on distrib. With timing marks lined up it can only be firing on 1 or 4 cylinder. Line marks up see where the rotor is pointing put no 1 lead there to start with and make sure your going in the right direction.

[1300e ian]

Looking at the front of the car with timing marks lined up. No 1 is on the right at the top. Rotor going clockwise

[Mexican Gerbil]

Might sound silly but do you have the dizzy 180 degrees out? That was my problem. If you've got spark at the plugs.

[1300e ian]

Hi the dizzy cap only goes on 1 way round.ive tried moving the leads round 2 spots but still the same

[colr6]

If it's a Bosch distrib brown small cap, it will have mark on the top lip of the case. The rotor should be pointing to that when firing on no1

[1300e ian]

So looking inside the cap i have an F and oposite that a 3

Number 1 plug is on the 3?

[colr6]

Was referring to a mark or notch on distributor casing like a little cut out when timing marks are lined up crank and cam it will be either facing that mark firing no 1

[1300e ian]

Sorry i see what you mean.

I will have a look

Thanks

[John escort mk1V6]

But did you took the complete dizziy out ?

[jas]

Did u put a new belt on u maybe 180 out put 1 to4 and 2 to3.

[mk1del]

crank the engine with dizzy cap off to make sure you know which way rotation, Set the cam belt pulley to the mark on the head, make sure this corresponds to the crank timing marks, this is no1 tdc, remove dizzy cap , make sure the no 1 plug lead lines up with rotor arm and recheck the other leads follow the rotation,  ,of the firing order 

[1300e ian]

Thanks guys will have another look at it today.

I havnt had the dizzy out and it was running when i bought it altho it would take ages to get it started.

[1300e ian]

So ive been on it today.

The dizzy is the right way round may need slight ajustment to line up correctly.

I wanted to sort the fuel leaking and checked the oil.

It was way past the max level so i drained it.

It ran out like water. The fuel ive been pumping for weeks must have found its way into the oil as it wasnt being burnt.

Its then thinned the oil so started leaking out of any gaps it could find.

[1300e ian]

I was also told to try putting abit of oil in the plug holes to make sure nothing was seized.

Im thinking maybe when im trying to start it its having fuel and oil onto the plugs so not starting?

Ive disconected the fuel line and sealed it off.

Could i take out the plugs and turn the engine over to blow out any oil or crap from in the spark plug holes?

Then clean plugs refit leave fuel off and spray some starter spray in the carb. Turn her over and see if she tries to start as not even trying at the moment just turning over.

Does this sound ok?

Could i leave the sump plug off for a few days for any fuel to evaporate?

Anything that i shouldnt be doing?

Im working this week so will be next weekend before i can get back onto it.

Thanks guys i do appreciate your help and info

[Vista]

Yes to taking plugs out and turning it over. Leaving sump plug off for 24 hours though, no. No point, it'll not make any appreciable difference.

[1300e ian]

Thanks vista im going to get some cheap oil in and turn it over a few times then drain it new filter and good oil

[colr6]

Thanks vista im going to get some cheap oil in and turn it over a few times then drain it new filter and good oil

If you do spin the engine up without plugs and its on electronic ign either disconnect the supply to ign or put some plugs in the end of the leads as it has been known for it to back up and blow the ign module.

[1300e ian]

Thanks.

Ive put new oil and filter on, checked the plugs for spark while they were out looked ok i think. Ive refitted them left the fuel disconected and sprayed abit of starter fluid down the carb.

Turned it over still didnt try to fire up altho the engine now turns over twice the speed it did before.

I ran out of time but should be back on it weds.

[puddy]

Sounds like you have bore washed it , I'd tow it down the road  and if it does start keep it revving until it clears .

 

puddy

[mk2 ben]

Ok first thing get a compression test make sure you have decent compression on all four cylinders you say you already have fuel at the carb make sure inlet manifold is not leaking double check cam and crank timing to make sure that is spot on now this bit might sound daft but just try it turn it over and spray lynx deodorant in the carb it's flammable and acts like easy start see if it fires up pinto engines are very basic you need compression, timing ,sparks and fuel I had this on a pinto it was overfilling and the fuel was basically putting the spark out pintos also like to crank over quite fast so try getting a nice big battery on there I've got a big diesel van battery on mine the fuel in the oil is called bore washing which is why I say to test your compression and Leeds me to think your gettin too much fuel in the cylinders but it might be alright after it's running as it'll be using the fuel instead of bore washing hope this helps let us know how you get on

[1300e ian]

So i got back on it today testing compression and checking i had 12 v at the coil.

the switch live is reading 12v at the coil until i connect the poss and neg wires from the dizzy. It then reads about 7v same when cranking?

could this be the dizzy electronic chip,some other part of the wiring or the ballast wire?

i had another 12v switch wire to starter motor but no room for it on the new starter

i put a jumper cable from battery poss to coil which then gave it the 12v and good spark.

i also switched the leads on the dizzy 180 again a cap of fuel in the carb and she started sounded great.

so the dizzy must be 180 out from the last owner but if i take it out and turn it the vacum part will be on the front and the wires coming out of the dizzy at the back? Does that sound right?

so at the moment no1 lead now is front and left looking at the van from the front with the wires at the front vacum at the back

i also found the fuel in oil problem.

my carb is a copy webber but when running the floats not working.

fuel fills the chamber then overflows down the carb flooding the engine.

Not had chance to look at that yet and just need to sort the 12v to coil and should be good to go.

it was so good to hear her run ?

 

[mk2 ben]

It don't really matter which post on the cap is number one as long as it runs if I remember right you wire it from the key so when you engage 12v to the starter you also feed 12v to the coil when you release the key to the second position you go via the ballast resister , so you get 12 v on crank and 7-9 v when she's up and running as soon as she sounds sweet you can work on your carb problems ?