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bigbadsquare

Cylinder head dry build ST170

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Guys im building a st170 head keeping the vvt with throttle bodies headwork and cat cams. Can i assembly myself? Cams supposedly work with the oem springs and followers. Was told i need to do a dry build. Anybody talk me through it please? Thanks Paul bb8958b589b5086be79c6f93312a5b7d.jpgfceb4a9da343269f1ff56dd372223040.jpg5c27a5a128ab8f8099184e539276e6f6.jpgfa8742958cd11f3ad3ba0c580fbb2743.jpgc83ab5fd190e1ee10fb148a881aab916.jpg

 

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Sorry, missed this somehow. 

Yes, you can assemble the head yourself, using a DTI, Timing Wheel and a Torque Wrench with additional Angle Guage. 

Only issue I had recently doing one was when I was moving the cam to time the opposite cam, was that I twice got some slip/movement of the vernier pulley. I then fully torqued it with a Snap On Impact Wrench before moving and it was fine. 

Also had to use some thin plate shims to lock the cams. If I remember, they might have been 5mm, but not 100% sure. 

The guy I did the job for Googled a method from one of the Zetec sites. It was fairly straightforward to follow. Unfortunately, I didn't keep a copy of it. 

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Query - if taking the time to use vernier cam wheels and a timing disc - why bother with the 5mm (correct) locking bar used by Ford munchkins when changing the cam belt? Hope it wasn't to stop them turning when doing up the main bolt? If so, you were lucky as the cams tend to crack at the slots with the twisting force - better a pair of vice grips around the cam and against the head casting.

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12 hours ago, katana said:

Query - if taking the time to use vernier cam wheels and a timing disc - why bother with the 5mm (correct) locking bar used by Ford munchkins when changing the cam belt? Hope it wasn't to stop them turning when doing up the main bolt? If so, you were lucky as the cams tend to crack at the slots with the twisting force - better a pair of vice grips around the cam and against the head casting.

I think it was initially more for the starting point of getting both cams synchrosed while setting the piston stroke. However, you are correct in stating that they were used for locking the cams to tighten the pulley bolts. As I used an impact wrench to initially crack them, I also put a spanner on the cam, as it was shouldered to take a spanner. 

Probably a good job I did this then, as I was unaware that this can cause the cams to crack. I'll remember that one if I have to do another. Good shout. 

 

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I would think you were told to do a dummy build not a dry build but that’s just semantics.

i would do a dummy build with an old gasket to check for valve to piston contact.

If your using original springs then the cams won’t have much more lift than standard and measuring spring binding can be difficult with bucket lifters but you can measure lift with the standard cams and then the new cams.

i would always use oil when fitting components when I building an engine

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