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eastoe73

Mk1 Escort sill and floor

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Hi all, I need some advice on outer sill and floor fitting. 

I have braced between the door pillars and removed the floor an outer sill, I have mocked up the fitting of the outer sill and floor and there are moor adjustments to be made to the new panels than I thought they would need to make them fit nice (they are expressed steel panels) but think I will be ok.

My question is do I fit the outer sill first or the floor (driver side full floor), my thought is to fit the sill first so I can get it to line up with the door and make the floor fit from there.

This is my first time doing this so any advice most welcome, HOPING I HAVE NOT BIT OFF MORE THAN I CAN CHEW :) 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

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My thoughts would be as you said, fit the outer sill first so that everything lines up correctly, then fettle the floor to match.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

Paul

 

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having had this done, although I didn't do it personally, the guy did it on site, so I was able to see how it was done, and from memory, and it was a while ago, the floor, sills, door posts and closing panels were put in and lined up together and clamped everywhere prior to any welding being carried out, I don't remember any fettling work to the floor itself, and tbh I think that lined up fairly well, but the sills were so far out from the originals it took a day on each one to get them the correct shape, (magnum junk) I even seem to remember helping hang the doors prior to anything being welded as well, to make sure it all lined up, and the shell wasn't just braced between A and B pillars, he made a whole frame inside the car before cutting anything out, that was front to back, side to side and horizontal and vertical diagonals

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56 minutes ago, Ray said:

I even seem to remember helping hang the doors prior to anything being welded as well, to make sure it all lined up, and the shell wasn't just braced between A and B pillars, he made a whole frame inside the car before cutting anything out, that was front to back, side to side and horizontal and vertical diagonals

Sounds very sensible - unless the chassis is bolted to a Motoliner table and jig, it'll move all over the place when the cills are removed, as you are only relying on the roof and maybe the tunnel to stop it racking and / or twisting.

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As said it’s bit of jiggery pokery trail fit everything and drill holes and self tapper the panels in place or clamps etc 

trail fit the door to get gaps correct and that it sits flush with rear quarter 

tack weld panels in place and check gaps again 

then get on with some welding checking as you go to make sure nothing distorts 

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Are the chassis rails still there or have you chopped them out as well when I did mine my inner sill was still ok so I unstitched the floor from the rails don’t know if you have one but I used a spot weld remover like a little flat drill bit cut the rot out then put the floor in but back then they where in 2 half’s front and rear wot a pain then tacked it in place but I would say tack loads of strengthing bars so it doesn’t move the more metal you take out the more it will move this side the inner sill was gone just like the rest of the car 😂😂😂D8744CCD-1B10-4537-94BB-D9F7A542735B.thumb.png.7e4ae166e29ec1e05bba499c7dc972ce.png0FAF08BE-C51D-401E-AFE0-C3E77DC67934.thumb.png.4c8f44419ee616afa9150cdca6d90aed.png679E9DB1-C71B-453C-9462-B97D85D72C45.thumb.png.821020b8f46375d6e3dace264197a1e7.png

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Thanks for all the advice, I have re-fitted the door to check the sill alignment and it still shuts and lines up nice so hopefully no movement in the shell.

Thanks again Mark

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