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Afternoon.

My car is in bits at the moment getting its RHD conversion.

Anyway, before it goes back onto the road itll be getting a few mods in the engine bay which means ill be using a remote servo.

Seen this pedal box https://www.burtonpower.com/adjustable-bias-pedal-box-ford-escort-mk1-cable-clutch-brk001.html  (Ill be comparing prices with other companies before i buy) and looks like what i need, i think.

Do i run one master cylinder to the servo ( front brakes ) and non servo to the rear or twin servos?

 

Cheers

 

Rich

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Just run servo on fronts, do NOT buy one of the cheap Lockheed repos servos. Their shite, look out for a girling powerstop one or get an original Lockheed ones.

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How do you avoid repro stuff?

I plan on buying everything from one of the usual suspects and not ebay.

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6 minutes ago, Rich T said:

How do you avoid repro stuff?

I plan on buying everything from one of the usual suspects and not ebay.

They are usually listed as Lockheed ‘style’ and cheap comparison to a  genuine one.

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Thanks.

Yeh, ive seen parts for sale with style in the ads. 

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Ok, a little update.

 

I ordered the pedal box just after my 1st post on this thread from Burtons.  8 or 9 weeks later it still didnt turn up! Canceled it and ordered the same one from Motorsport tools on friday and it was here with me by yesterday lunch time! and £30 cheaper! 

It has the Willwood cylinders. One is 0.625 and the other is 0.75

Anyway...... Would it be ok and safe to run the car without a servo all together?

Or does the mere mention of doing this mean i should be dragged through the streets by horses and publicly flogged?

 

Rich

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Safe? Yes, lots of people do it. Hard work though, and I've found it a little nerve wracking when someone in a modern car pulls up hard in front of me and I have to stand on the brakes like my life depends on it!

I also confess that I like my creature comforts and if I had my time again on the van, I would incorporate a remote servo somehow.

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Mmmm ok.

 

Thanks for your replies. Got a week or 2 to think about it before i start on the brakes.

 

Rich

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Ì ran my Twincam without a servo for many years because you couldn't get the leather seal for the booster at the time. I got lucky one day when I approached a brake place who had found a guy to hand make the leather seals which were the same booster as an old Lamborghini he was working on except it had two. So it was no trouble to make a third seal but still cost a fortune. Now of course they are dirt cheap on Ebay! But before getting the booster fixed, while I coped with it at no point did it ever feel safe. I never opened up the taps in fear that I may have to pull the car up suddenly. It sort of defeated the purpose of having a Fast Ford. I always remember coming home with sore arms because as I was breaking I was wedging my arms behind the steering wheel to be able to push the brake pedal down. It totally takes the fun out of driving and is always at the forefront of your mind. Get a booster and get the most fun out of it.

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Been running my mk1 without a servo for 3k miles without any problems. As above...just need to press harder on pedal!!
Also upgraded from single circuit to dual circuit mk2 m/c....mot tester commented how effective the brakes were

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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An 'un-servo'd servo system is completely different to an un-servo'd bias box system. The effort involved in the former is stupid as the assistance does it all for you! The latter can be designed to have a pedal as hard or as soft as you like or as above add a servo on the fronts (for those without muscles LOL!)

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Car Builder Solutions do a selection of servo’s and I note they do a twin servo setup, it’s a beast and probably needs fitting in the boot.

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Just doing google images of pedal boxes and came across this thread on another site.

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=886871

Ive got the exact same pedal box for my car, fitted but not plumbed in yet.

 

The reservoir feed pipes are in the ports on the cylinders different to what i was expecting :think:.

Mine came with no instructions but would have thought that flow in would have been nearest the cylinder base and flow out at the end of the cylinder? Surely? 

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I've got the same pedal box and never even considered the 'backwards' plumbing! The inlet is 7/16" and the outlet 3/8" so obviously designed that way and they seem to have bled up ok -  although I think i've got my masters sizes back to front AND the wrong way round across the bias bar...........so they'll have to come out at some stage!

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That is correct, self explanatory really the larger hole been the feed. Just make sure on the brake pipe thread size, most of mine are 3/8 unf normal mk1 size but also have a couple of cylinders with metric thread.

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Thank you both.

Never really done any modifying on my cars, other than a bit of lowering here and there. Ive always changed parts like for like on the cars ive had and would have this time if the servo would clear the 40s.

 

Rich

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Evening. Another question.

Ive got the braking system set up and bled and the pedal feels good. But havnt tried them yet as i havnt fitted carpet, seats or gear knob. 

Thing is the bar that the cylinders attach to seems to seesaw when i press the pedal. Is this normal? The lock nuts that lock the cylinder rods to the pedal are tight and i cant see any way of keeping the bar horizontal. I know its floating on a rose joint  so the cylinders can move indipendantly but should there be any seesaw movement? Its not excessive but i thought the push rods should stay inline with the cylinder

I cant see any way of stopping it , it maybe normal. I do not know. 

Rich 

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Have you adjusted the freeplay on the rods coming out of the master cylinders to the bias bar? 

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Yes. Theres no free play. It feels like a new car brake pedal. 

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I'll try and have a look at mine tomorrow. 

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Having a quick google and have found that the gap between the clevis's and the pedal tube should be 1.5mm max. I have a gap of 8mm. But prior to fitting the box when fitting the cylinders it was measured out correctly to make the push rods run dead straight with the cylinders.

15635670703984768355325028617744.jpg

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