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That pic above, i pulled the bar fully to one side just to show you. 

The article i read sead that too any more than 1.5mm and the bar could move whilst driving and adjusting the bias without  the driver knowing. Makes sence.

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3 minutes ago, John escort mk1V6 said:

With mine estate i did put in a cable to ajust it , thats makes it easer to set it up.

Yeh, i didnt fancy a cable. I was hoping to set it up, lock it off and leave it. 

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8 minutes ago, Rich T said:

Yeh, i didnt fancy a cable. I was hoping to set it up, lock it off and leave it. 

Yes when it`s done , then leave it alone , but when you must dive under the dash a couple times to set it up , than is a cable a nice thing to have , with our MOT in The Netherland it`s failure , when you can change the brake balance like this.

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The 'rocking bar' is normal and should happen - its how the 'bias' bit works. Static / at rest the bar should be closer to the front master and less the rear, as the pedal is pressed the bar will be level / perpendicular with both cylinders, continued pressure goes to front and bar moves away from cylinder. Its to ensure that although force is being applied to the pedal, it is being split in un-equal amounts front vs rear. I couldn't get my head around the 1/8" clearance either - it just puts the clevises too close to the rose joint such that they bind up - i've spaced mine where they don't bind up.

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1 hour ago, katana said:

as the pedal is pressed the bar will be level / perpendicular with both cylinders, 

This is the part that isnt happening. When i press the pedal the bar flips up or down. The rods do push into the cylinders and the pedal feels good. 

Last night  i had a tinker and brought the gap down to 2mm. Thats 6mm off centre between both rods (3mm each). They still look straight to the naked eye. Bar not flipping now and no binding. 

I may wind the gap back to 8mm and fit spacer shims.

 

 

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