Jump to content
Jimbonic

Mk2 Cortina 1300 Deluxe 1970

Recommended Posts

Hi,

It's early days yet. But, I thought I'd start a thread to (probably fairly randomly) keep up-to-date with progress...

So, I bought a Mk2 Cortina last weekend. It could be viewed as a bit of a mid-life crisis purchase! Some may say I'm trying to relive my youth - I had a series of Fords in my early driving years: 1966 1500 Cortina estate (which ended up being GT'd - I had plenty of time since I bought it aged 15), a 1970 1600E (with a mildly tuned x-flow and slightly uprated suspension), a 1954 sit-up-and-beg Ford Pop (completely standard apart from the hand-painted coachwork) and a 1955 Ford Consul (with a Raymond Mays head and obligatory visor, whitewalls and blue dots!). I'll see if I can dig out some photos of those for readers' rides...

Anyway, back to the present. I bought this car from a chap in Southend, who told me he'd converted it to manual (from Auto, obviously) using a Capri 'box, fitted a new rad, done the brakes, etc., etc. So, off I set in great excitement and confidence to show off the lovely new car to my expectant family. I got about 8 miles down the road before the exhaust fell off and it over heated! Having pulled the exhaust off (I hadn't brought any tools with me, of course) and topped up the water, I set off again. Then, it decided to set into a pretty fearsome vibration (still not sure what caused it - prop shaft not fully engaged?), which had the added effect of loosening the throttle linkage, which I bodged up using some roadside plastic string, and later one of the starter motor cables. With the help of the RAC, I completed my 50 mile journey in under 11 hours...!

So, it looks like it'll be a week or three before I can actually drive it and start with all the plans I had. They may have to be scaled back a bit, as it's going to cost me a few hundred quid to get it to a regularly driveable state. A friend reckons we can weld the exhaust back together - a sports system seems a little OTT for the, erm, "fire-breathing" 1300! I have got hold of a new cooling system: radiator, hoses, water pump. And, I'm in the process of sourcing ignition bits and pieces, as it is turning over fine, but failing to start. That's probably down to points, condenser or coil. Any ideas?

I'll have to find some seat belts for the back so that my wife will let me ferry the kids around. But, it looks like Burton have some that should do the trick.

As and when things happen and I remember, I'll be back to post updates...

1970 Cortina - as it arrived at home.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the world of classic car ownership......at least you got 8 miles of trouble-free driving in before the problems started!!! Interesting write-up and well-done on getting her home....albeit 11 hours later!

Good luck with her and bring on the updates. Nice to see a standard 1300 Cortina

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Short term plan is to make it drive!

Medium term, tidy it up, keep it pretty stock. Money and time are a bit tight. So, it will be steady as she goes. I'll make sure it steers and stops nicely. Sort the gearbox and clutch, as I think it is a bit of a bodge. It has a cable clutch, I discovered today. And, I'm sure the prop's too short. But, I need to get it up in the air to inspect that more carefully.

It has a bench front seat and I'm in two minds whether to swap that out for separates, maybe 1600E-type. I like the bench seat. But, I can't move it any further forward than it is, as it will stop me getting 2nd and 4th gears. It's fine for me. But, Mrs Jimbonic won't be able to drive it. (Some might say that's a good thing!)

I might drop it an inch or two and give it some slightly wider steels (probably 5.5") and go for the low-slow approach, perhaps a few vaguely period cosmetics.

Or, of course, I might get carried away, really sort the suspension, tune the engine, etc. But, I'm quite keen to keep the 1300.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, who'd a thought it....

Gap the points and plugs properly. Give the points contacts and rotor arm contact a bit of a clean and it starts!!

I did buy points, condenser and rotor arm. But, of course, they were all wrong. So, I have some nice shiny bits for a dizzy I don't have!

For anyone interested, I've attached a (slightly soft focus!) photo of the engine bay and mighty 1300 x-flow! (The eagle-eyed of you will spot my get-you-home throttle linkage bodge...)

Anyone on here any good on engine numbers? If so, is it possible to check whether this is a Cortina version, as opposed to Capri, Escort, etc.? Is there any difference?

1970 Cortina - the mighty 1300 xflow.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK. So, a small amount of research seems to indicate that I have a the correct 1300 x-flow. Engine number (casting number) is 681F6015HA.

So, this is the 1300 with slightly domed head and non-square big end caps? Correct?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you, Mark.

Been a bit distracted...

So, progress has been pretty slow. A combination of life, lack of time & money and a frustratingly difficult to trace problem. It seems to be a combination of the mish mash of components in the car and my technical rustiness!

The car has run, at best, intermittently. I thought I'd cracked it the other day - fitted new points, condenser and rotor arm (and raised my arms triumphantly!). I managed to drive a few miles into town and (most of the way) back before it died on me. So, I walked home and grabbed some tools. I checked the points gap (again!), checked I was getting fuel to the carb (can't see into the carb while turning it over so still don't know if that's happening). Fortunately, a passing neighbour stopped to give me a hand. With two of us, we could check whether we were getting  spark - we weren't. In a fit of pique I changed the coil, dizzy cap and HT leads - still nothing. Called the RAC. They reckoned I was getting a voltage drop before the coil. So, we temporarily bypassed the ballast resistor and it started.

That got me half of the 200 m home. We had to push the rest. The RAC chap fiddled with the idle (setting it to run a bit fast, I think, so it would run). So, they said their good byes and left me to it. Of course, as soon as they left, it wouldn't run!

Yesterday, I followed the 12 V feed to the coil back a bit and found that there were a couple of dodgy cable connections. I soldered those up properly. But, still nothing. I didn't have anyone to help me check whether I'm getting a spark now or not. So, I left it and went to spend some time with the family.

It turns over nice and strongly. I reckon the carb is a later model auto-choke version of the single choke Weber.

I'm running out of ideas.

Anyone?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have several problems all at once !! . Is the fuel in it new as it does go off after several months and can give you all sorts of running issues . Had a 2.8 capri and old fuel in it caused me all sorts of issues ,time and money before I was told to change the fuel. Do you think the auto choke is playing up ? Back in the day plenty folk converted these to manual , am sure there was a kit produced to do this . As for the condenser and points ect don't assume because they are new they wont be faulty. One last point had a Fiesta van years ago that started perfect when cold but kept stopping when warmed up and had spark issues. Turned out to be the coil breaking down when warm I think. Any way hope some of this helps and good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Wigan.

I'll check through those. The car had been used (not frequently) before I bought it and I filled up and drove it 80 miles home (in about 4 stages!). Obviously, still could be picking up something from the tank, though. I checked that I was getting fuel to the carb (took the hose off at the carb and turned the engine over and got some flow - fuel welled out). But, I couldn't tell how clean / fresh it was, of course.

Your point about the, erm, points & condenser is a good one. I'll check those out again. They were pretty cheap off eBay...!

I hope it isn't the coil. That's a new Sparkrite item. But, again as you say, you never know.

On Saturday, we did manage to get a spark by bypassing the ballast resistor. I could try that again now I've got a few more volts getting to the coil...

The auto-choke may be a bit of a red herring. I think these carbs were fitted with auto-choke in period. But, it looks from the Haynes manual that it would have been a mechanical device. The carb I have has an electrical connection (disconnected). But, it also has a manual choke (operated in the usual way via cable and knob on the dash).

I probably just need to spend some time going through everything logically, with someone else there to bounce ideas off, hold stuff and give me moral support!

Thanks again for your help - really appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×