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MM77

What is meant by a box section?

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5 minutes ago, notenoughtime said:

with the blasting he will do any bit you want so you could leave the main panels and just do the bits you want

Given the underlying theme of this thread is minimisation of future horror stories I would get the entire thing done just to be safe.

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What is meant by a box section?

I thought it was the body of a Mk2 Escort from the front apron to the rear bumper?

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1 hour ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

I thought it was the body of a Mk2 Escort from the front apron to the rear bumper?

Have you read the whole thread? 😂it was a general question about draining any enclosed section really 

must have drunk to many Fosters last night 😂

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🤣

I did but couldn't resist a Mk2 style joke.

I wouldn't have thought the box sections needed drilling to access on cars over there. Mother nature created her own for you guys :wink:

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6 hours ago, MM77 said:

Ah ok, thanks for the clarification there.  Very helpful.

The shell is Aussie sourced so the only rust I'm aware of is in the heater bowl.  I have stripped it down completely and there isn't any more rust in it anywhere, thankfully.  So I'm not really concerned with it coming back in a box.

 

I wouldn't be dipping it then if its an Australian shell then. Just blast it externally where needed. Definitely check the C Pillars though particularly the vents from behind. While it may appear fine on the outside,  someone has most likely tried to correct it superficially but very few actually address the vents rusting from behind due to a moisture absorbing sealant being used by the factory. This in turn allows water to drip down into the inner guard so check both your outer and inner rear arches. These with the heater bowl are the main Australian car rust vulnerabilities with the odd footwell repairs needed from damp carpets being sure to get them to blast out the tar sheeting in the front footwells and replaced with a rust preventative paint coating instead. The tar sound proofing can be replaced with a dynamat type product on top of that to seal the footwells off from moisture.

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1 hour ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

I wouldn't be dipping it then if its an Australian shell then. Just blast it externally where needed. Definitely check the C Pillars though particularly the vents from behind. While it may appear fine on the outside,  someone has most likely tried to correct it superficially but very few actually address the vents rusting from behind due to a moisture absorbing sealant being used by the factory. This in turn allows water to drip down into the inner guard so check both your outer and inner rear arches. These with the heater bowl are the main Australian car rust vulnerabilities with the odd footwell repairs needed from damp carpets being sure to get them to blast out the tar sheeting in the front footwells and replaced with a rust preventative paint coating instead. The tar sound proofing can be replaced with a dynamat type product on top of that to seal the footwells off from moisture.

Thanks for the advice.  I bought it just at the very start of the latest craze (ie, 2007) so got it very cheap and also a very good example.  This was it prior to me getting my spanners out (ie, ruining it).

Mexico 010.jpg

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And after.

(It's a completely bare shell now and desperately needs some love).

Mexico 026.jpg

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16 minutes ago, MM77 said:

Thanks for the advice.  I bought it just at the very start of the latest craze (ie, 2007) so got it very cheap and also a very good example.  This was it prior to me getting my spanners out (ie, ruining it).

Mexico 010.jpg

Here I was going all on about C Pillar rust and all that with Mk2s on my my mind forgetting you were talking about a Mk1! My mistake. So not much chance of C pillar rust there then. Just boot floors, heater bubbles and footwells instead. Boot floor being your most likely. Looks like a bit in the gutter channel that should be an easy fix. Looks pretty sound and good to me I would just blast it where needed. I dont think dipping is necessary and could create more problem than really needs solving with that shell.

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Think I would get the front blasted looking at the pics, remove the wings, leave the rear as is don’t make yourself work what are you going to gain 

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2 minutes ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Here I was going all on about C Pillar rust and all that with Mk2s on my my mind forgetting you were talking about a Mk1! My mistake. So not much change of C pillar rust there then. Just boot floors, heater bubbles and footwells instead. Boot floor being your most likely. Looks like a bit in the gutter channel that should be an easy fix. Looks pretty sound and good to me I would just blast it where needed. I dont think dipping is necessary and could create more problem than really needs solving with that shell.

We are thinking alike! 👍

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6 minutes ago, MM77 said:

And after.

(It's a completely bare shell now and desperately needs some love).

Mexico 026.jpg

Definitely wouldn't trouble myself dipping that. Its really sound. Just blast areas where needed but there dont appear to be many of them unless you want to strip it back all over. Hows the boot floor? Aussie Mk1s seem particularly vulnerable there.

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This is the best pic I have of the boot on hand but as you can see it's only surface rust.  It was shipped over in 2015 and has spent the last 12 years dry stored so it's (hopefully) the same condition now.

You guys are starting to sway me toward sand/soda blasting.

 

 

 

Mexico 018.jpg

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10 minutes ago, notenoughtime said:

Think I would get the front blasted looking at the pics, remove the wings, leave the rear as is don’t make yourself work what are you going to gain 

Most of the dark patches on the front is simply dirt that collects under the headlight buckets. Just a bit of patch rust along the front apron seams. I wouldnt bother removing the wings either. Australian cars rarely rust out the tops of their front guards only sometimes down lower at the sills but that also looks pretty good down low as well from the images I see. I think a bit of blasting where you see some spot rust will see you well with minimal effort. Just check your sills and lower doors skins and drains.

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5 minutes ago, MM77 said:

This is the best pic I have of the boot on hand but as you can see it's only surface rust.  It was shipped over in 2015 and has spent the last 12 years dry stored so it's (hopefully) the same condition now.

You guys are starting to sway me toward sand/soda blasting.

 

 

 

Mexico 018.jpg

Yeah the floor always a weak spot on those Mk1s. A few spots around the rim and I would look closer at the rear panel that seems to have a bit of filler in it. They are the kinds of areas to direct your blaster guy too. I would take out the boot floor though and replace in one piece. If you find a quality replacement let me know I need to do the same with my Twincam!

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By Australian Mk1 standards even the boot floor rust is pretty good. I think you have a winner of a car there. Very sound from what I can see. If you have any images of the floor and footwells I would be very interested.

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12 minutes ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

By Australian Mk1 standards even the boot floor rust is pretty good. I think you have a winner of a car there. Very sound from what I can see. If you have any images of the floor and footwells I would be very interested.

Well the floor looks much worse than it is with surface rust and general dirt.  Let me find a pic.

 

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Alot of the brown you see in the photos are not rust but the brown underfelt that clings to the floor when you lift the original carpets. The drivers side between the seat mounts seems to be the worst part but if you give that a good wire brushing and rust converter I think you will be surprised to find there arent really many rust holes there. You may not even find you need to replace that floor panel. Soda blasting would be beneficial there. One of the door seals must have had a leak in it that allowed the water to collect under the seat. Usually the worst spot is where the floor curves up  to the bulkhead but yours isn't that bad there. Most of the rust you see if surface only.  I would be interested to see a comparison shot of the floor after its blasted. I think you will be pleasantly surprised how intact the floor still is. There will be small patches for sure but by Escort standards its pretty sound.

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I reckon it’s had rear quarter damage in the past hence cracks in inner wheel arch and rear quarter marks 

looks like a good shell to start with in my opinion 

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You guys are amazingly observant to be picking up details like that!  I have no idea to be honest.  This is why I can't wait for the dip/blast to see all the hidden secrets.

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My research continues.

What are the pros/cons of 2pk etch vs weld through primer? I have googled but would like to hear the opinions of the forum.

The difference is only £50

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It's not my field, but as far as I'm aware they are what they say... Weld through is for use when welding. The Etch is for priming the hole body before painting.

I don't think the weld through primer is a suitable all over undercoat primer to paint on to.

That's my understanding of them, I could be proven wrong. lol 

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8 hours ago, Cuili1 said:

It's not my field, but as far as I'm aware they are what they say... Weld through is for use when welding. The Etch is for priming the hole body before painting.

I don't think the weld through primer is a suitable all over undercoat primer to paint on to.

That's my understanding of them, I could be proven wrong. lol 

Thanks for the reply but yeah I think you misunderstood. I'm only given the option of either/or and given the Weld Through option is more expensive I'm obviously of the belief this is the premium one.  Why or how though I'm not sure.  

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I don't think the cost makes it a 'premium' product - they are designed to do different jobs. The weld through is a metal preparation that will protect the base metal whilst allowing more work to be carried out ie. welding additional metal in without reducing the protection provided by the paint. An etch primer is really used after all the work is done to provide a really well bonded coating over lots of material bases, steel, braze, filler, weld material, stainless and aluminium metals where normal primers coat the base but don't 'bond' to it. It should be harder wearing and provide the best base for finishing paint. Hope that helps a bit.

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