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cossiemark

Re torquing head bolts

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I'm going to check my head bolts on my 1.6 xflow this weekend now that I've ran the engine in. A friend has told me to slacken them off slightly in the reverse order before I re torque them back up to 70lb is this correct or do I just do them from the torque settings that they are already at? Also do I do them from cold or hot?

Thanks mark

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Re torque, never heard of slacken first and cold.

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hi, warm up your engine, then re torque your bolts, with the last setting,  you will find that some will be lose, then you are finnised, it says in books, cheers marcel

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2 minutes ago, anglia58 said:

hi, warm up your engine, then re torque your bolts, with the last setting,  you will find that some will be lose, then you are finnised, it says in books, cheers marcel

Marcel, i'm not saying you are wrong but surely heating an engine expands the metal so tightening any fasteners? Torquing fixings at this point may read correct but be too loose when cold. Engines are assembled cold - torquing bolts / nuts should be done cold IMO.

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Usual procedure on a crossflow is built engine with all torquing done, run up to temp approx 20 mins. By the time you’ve taken the rocker cover off, rocker shaft and necessary ancillaries to get to the internal head studs the engines cooled down to enable a re- torque.

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hi colin is right, it says so in the book, every thing will expand when warming up, also the bolts, i have done that a few times, the bolts will retorque, i have don it with my engine wich started to leak oil at the front, where most kent engines leak, front left, there is a oil canel, every thing was tide except the left front bolt, this was after the engine run for 3 years, cheers marcel

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