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It's happened again. On way back from powderham show. Was overtaking a car, so high revs, car was hot and it just cut out. Lucky there was a layby up ahead which we rolled into. Nothing at the key again. Let it cool for 5 mins, still nothing. Got out and wiggles a few things and it started. Went to pull away and cut out. Tried and again and started and indicated to pull away and cut out. 

No pissing about on a busy main road. Got AA to take car home. Tried replicating problem with high revs and it was fine. 

So intermittent problem of no power getting to the ignition system. This is going to be fun to solve.

 

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Can't offer much advice except that testing when static whether at idle or high rpm won't be putting the system under load when things usually fail - could point to ign. or fuelling! Not much help but best I can offer at distance!

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When it goes into stop mode, do you also lose ign switched items like heater/ indicators ign light ?

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38 minutes ago, colr6 said:

When it goes into stop mode, do you also lose ign switched items like heater/ indicators ign light ?

Yes, noticed that today when indicator stopped flashing in the layby. Hazard lights still worked so still getting power from battery to some of the car

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Sounds like it's more heat related due to something expanding and breaking a connection. When it cools down again you can't find the fault/break is not showing. 

Haven't gone back through the thread, but:

1. what's the score with your distributor and coil set up?

2. Have you done any work around this area previous to this fault showing up? 

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The lines I’m thinking on are there are two circuits on the car, ign fed and battery fed. If all or most of ign fed items go off the most likely culprit would be the ign switch. If non ign fed items are working like lights side/ head then it proves the main feed is ok. The only other thing in between feed and ign fed stuff is the switch. Without studying a diagram that would be my conclusion. Otherwise you would have to familiarise yourself with what wires should be live all the time and ones which should be live with ign on. It would be wait till the fault occurs and out with a test light to see what you’ve got unless you find a ‘green ‘ plug somewhere.

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Just on a note though, keep a length of wire with you and if the car stops. Link a wire from battery side of solenoid to ign side of coil, push start the car and it should start. At least it will get you home! The down side of that if it is an ign feed fault then you would have no indicators/ stop lights wipers.

if the ‘fault’ corrects itself whilst you hot wired it nothing will be harmed apart from you won’t be able to stop engine with the wire in place as you’ve by- passed  everything.

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2 hours ago, dt36 said:

Sounds like it's more heat related due to something expanding and breaking a connection. When it cools down again you can't find the fault/break is not showing. 

Haven't gone back through the thread, but:

1. what's the score with your distributor and coil set up?

2. Have you done any work around this area previous to this fault showing up? 

That's exactly what happened to my Electronic Ignition last year, it would cut out when it reached operating temperature and it was the plug that joins the module to the distributor sensor. When it heats up from the engine the plug would expand and not make contact even though the clips that hold it together appear connected.

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4 hours ago, Mexican Gerbil said:

It's happened again. On way back from powderham show. Was overtaking a car, so high revs, car was hot and it just cut out. Lucky there was a layby up ahead which we rolled into. Nothing at the key again. Let it cool for 5 mins, still nothing. Got out and wiggles a few things and it started. Went to pull away and cut out. Tried and again and started and indicated to pull away and cut out. 

No pissing about on a busy main road. Got AA to take car home. Tried replicating problem with high revs and it was fine. 

So intermittent problem of no power getting to the ignition system. This is going to be fun to solve.

 

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Did they give you the lecture about the reliability of old cars?

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No lectures about old cars, he was a little grumpy as his shift was due to end that was all. 

I have swapped the following in order to fix this. Starter solenoid, coil pack, points, condenser, dizzy cap, leads and plugs. Cleaned up all wires going to and from starter solenoid. Bypass the battery cut out switch. The car turns over and starts alot easier as before it struggled. Hoped the fault was in the solenoid.

Wanted to hot wire yesterday but didn't really know what I was doing. I did by pass the solenoid to the starter. The starter span over but no spark so wouldn't start. I have removed the alternator plug whilst car is running with no effect, also removed the top and bottom wires on the solenoid when car is running with no effect. 

Until it happens again I wont know what to fix next. Could it be the key barrel ? Because its like switching the key off and having no power from it. 

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It won’t be the switch barrel, it’s the plug part that goes on the end of the barrel. To hot wire is quite simple. Wire from battery feed on solenoid. Two big wires on solenoid, one goes to starter other is perm batt feed. Coil one side goes to dizzy the other side is ign switched feed connect to that one. Engine now has its own feed for ign only. As the starter won’t spin in your power loss scenario push start the car.

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I've just read though this, and I'm sorry if it's been mentioned or I'm thinking out the box in the wrong direction... But I had a similar issue years ago and it ended up being the earthing cable to the engine, The black sleeve over the crimped part made it look ok, But under it, it had melted bad and only gave in when the car got hot!

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Well......

Had 10 mins spare so went to tinker with the car. Attempted to start and then pull leads off to try and find where the problem is. Turned over twice then nothing.... dead..... no electric anywhere.

Meter out. Live and earth from battery still intact (battery in boot). Loop out starter solenoid and starter spins but car wont fire. Loop out ignition (live to + side of coil) made odd noise and when starter span up, started to smell so quickly stopped that.

Disconnect battery now. When I have an hour or 2 I will go through all of the electrics and see what's going on. All fuses still intact. Last week the hazards still worked now nothing. 

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I've just read though this, and I'm sorry if it's been mentioned or I'm thinking out the box in the wrong direction... But I had a similar issue years ago and it ended up being the earthing cable to the engine, The black sleeve over the crimped part made it look ok, But under it, it had melted bad and only gave in when the car got hot!
As Cuili says sbove....was going to mention the earths Chris. Check them all, especially the engine to body ones.
Got a similarish problem my other mk1. Runs great for 2.5-3 hours....then plays up til she wont start atall. Next day starts fine!! Gona have a play this weekend.... and go for long spin!!

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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Its tooooooo hot the play with cars.....

But made a start and re discovered my concourse Ford earth cable which is now shiny again. Also cleaned up live connector to battery. Working the way down the cables I discovered a loose one. The main live feed to the car. Which explains why nothing works now. But until it cools down I'm not sweating anymore tonight to clean up more cables.

 

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Now I've cooled down again, I have cleaned up the engine to chassis earth and made up a connection to start the car. 

Started on the first try which was a shock. Now the car was running I set about pulling wire to simulate breakdowns in the wires. 

First pulled the feed to the top and bottom of started solenoid....... car still runs. 

Pulled live battery feed off..... still runs. 

Only when I pull the plug from alternator and live off battery does the car stop running. Obviously 

However. This doesn't simulate what happens as I still had a live feed as the lights still worked. Will have to do some miles in it at the weekend and see if it happens again  

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Anyone had one of these apart 99% sure this is the fault. A dry solder joint on the black wire. I've tried to repair but the solder I have isn't taking. Not sure if any damage has occurred inside the switch from the heat of the soldering iron. 

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Had the sparky in work do a better soldering job. Then I had is apart and twas a bit pooey inside. Cleaned up and put back together. Bit tricky with lining it all up but eventually got there.

 

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Nice job - surprising the amount of crud that accumulates in a 'relatively' clean environment!

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It was one of those jobs that when apart I thought, oh no.... what have I done. But it's quite simple really. 

Just fitted to the car and started and switched off fine. Will have to do some miles now and see if it was the fault 

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48 minutes ago, Mexican Gerbil said:

It was one of those jobs that when apart I thought, oh no.... what have I done. But it's quite simple really. 

Just fitted to the car and started and switched off fine. Will have to do some miles now and see if it was the fault 

Fingers crossed for you.

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4 hours ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Ditto, holding my breath.

4 hours - You dead yet? It's not Double Jeopardy ya know :scared:

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3 hours ago, katana said:

4 hours - You dead yet? It's not Double Jeopardy ya know :scared:

From me holding my breath or from Mexican Gerbil electrocuting himself?

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