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Marcus

1600 x/flow with 1300 pistons

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Afternoon guys, can you tell me if you can put standard sized 1300 pistons in a 1600 block. As I am thinking of doing this to my mk2. What CC do they increase the engine to and is it worth the effort.

Thankyou for any info.

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Hi,

 

1300 Pistons do indeed often get fitted to 1600 blocks, but it will not increase the capacity of the engine, what it will do is increase the compression ratio.

 

It also depends on if you are referring to a 711M block type engine that has a flat head with valve head cut outs in the piston crowns, or a older 681F block or 691 block, the original head on one of these would have a semi chambered head, with a a bowl in the piston crown but NO valve cut outs in the piston crown.

 

Crossflows are a very easy engine to tune to increase power output, but power output also need to be tractable !!, soon able to give you the spec of a 150+ BHP 1660 crossflow, but it would be a pig to use as a knocking about Sunday burner, I tuned my own 1600 MK2 Escort with a ported head, better flowing exhaust and manifold, port matched the inlet manifold and cleaned up any casting marks from the throats, electronic distributor and had it all set up on a rolling road, the operator tickled up the main jets by one size, and she runs very-very well for a 1600, but I dont want to go further with it than it is now,  or it will be temperamental to drive, as she is,  it pulls from tickover to 6000 RPM very nicely indeed.

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Fabulous info, mine is a 711m from a 1600 sport. Running on a 4 branch and single box 21/4 inch bore. I have put a electronic distributor in her and she is running on a DGV 32/34 Weber. I would like to give her a new ported head and cam, also I would like to go the DCOE route also. And yes mine revs easily to 5500 to 6000 😁

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3 minutes ago, Marcus said:

Fabulous info, mine is a 711m from a 1600 sport. Running on a 4 branch and single box 21/4 inch bore. I have put a electronic distributor in her and she is running on a DGV 32/34 Weber. I would like to give her a new ported head and cam, also I would like to go the DCOE route also. And yes mine revs easily to 5500 to 6000 😁

if you are going ported head and big cam i would have the crank and shells looked at/reground while the engine is out and in bits

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If your going to put a cam in, get the bottom end balanced inc the piston and rods, you could even lighten the rods or stick a set of H beams in and you will need at least offset keyway or vernier timing gear, lighten the flywheel and a decent clutch plate

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Thx guys, still trying to get to the bottom of the vibration when on fast idle. I can feel it through the gear stick.

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4 minutes ago, Marcus said:

Thx guys, still trying to get to the bottom of the vibration when on fast idle. I can feel it through the gear stick.

broken engine or gearbox mount

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As the other guys have said, to  fit a cam, you need the engine out and invert it to change the cam/followers.

The thing is a crossflow will run even if very knackered, they do tend to give the piston rings a rough time once they have covered 40K+ miles, so if you put a high lift cam and ported head on, it WILL greatly accelerate any wear in the bores/rings of the pistons that already exists now.

Check the crank for wear on all 9 journals, and bore wear, ring float in the ring grooves/ ring lands.

Even a very well looked after crossflow, they are a 1950's/1960,s designed engine, so do wear quite fast compared to a more modern engine, my Escort had 23k miles on from new when I decided to give it a mild road going tune, but I still ended up with all new bearings, and a set of rings after glaze busting the bores, clutch is a must have while engine is out, also bear in mind that the crossflow eats its own cam bearings, so that,s a good engine builders job to get them out & replace, and to make sure the new cam bearing journals will run in the new cam bearing, that,s a job that needs time and care.

 

The 1600 should give 80+ BHP in good nick, why are you after more !!??, I would not want to push a used crossflow more than 10/15% more BHP and drive it hard up the revs, I just enjoy the extra little bit of torque I got out of mine with a "High Torque Cam" (255 degree), mine still cost a grand in all with a rolling road session.

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Serious info thx everyone, so not really recommend to rev it hard then. Maybe no more then 5000 rpm then 🙈.

i have always loved the note of a x/flow on DCOE carbs. But going by what you guys have said, mite be safer to keep with DGV I guess.

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This is wha5 I think you should do to start

38 DGAS Weber with a good ported Head matched inlet and exhaust and see what you think all top end stuff BUT before you do do a compression check and see how all four cylinders relate to each other! 

If you want to build the bottom end after that you could build it separately then bolt those bits on 

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