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Scortedvan

Mk1 Escort - St170 Conversion - To be or not to be..?

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2 hours ago, dt36 said:

Give Mike at Lyons Engineering (Brynmawr) a ring.  He did a job for me last week and is working, as it's a small family run business.

He dynamically balanced my bottom rotating mass for me on my Pinto.  Thoroughly recommend him.

 

Thanks for that - I've found him on the internet so I'll call him in the morning and see what he says. Thanks for the suggestion!

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Evening all! So some more progress made and as always another question :) The packages have increased in both size and frequency, and most pleasingly my engine turned up. This was duly stripped of things no longer needed which are now on  ebay.

I also got the flywheel modified, which in all honesty i ended up doing myself, both to save a couple of pennies and also because I wanted to. It turned out well, all holes drilled and tapped in the correct places, to identical depths etc so it will certainly work to an extent. Im happy in the future to re adress this if I need to.

Todays question though, is regarding the crank case oil breather/separator and pcv valve. Can the original setup be retained with the pcv modded to flow without vacuum - does it physically fit in that location with the starter and exhaust in the same area?

Alternately i have seen a plate that i could make myself with a 10mm barb connection - is this more suitable in terms of physically fitting?

i have no real preference, and im happy to leave the original setup in place if it fits.

Thanks everyone !

Joe

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Evening all, little update just to track things for my own record if nothing else! The new engine has been stripped of ancillaries, cleaned and the block given a decent coat of ford grey engine enamel. Its come up really nicely to be fair! Ive had a look under the cam cover, which has pleased me as it looks brand new, and the oil looks really fresh which is a good sign.

I will inspect the bottom end at the weekend when the sumps being swapped over for the RF one - my fitting kit should arrive tomorrow so if all goes well id like it sitting in the car on the mounts by Sunday evening. That said I'm not in any rush really. 

Regards the breather, Ive done a bit more digging and i think its fine to leave the original one as is, the engine mount should clear fine and it seems much better than some of the aftermarket solutions. Thats been cleaned and painted also.

In regards to the fuel system I've managed to sort that now i think, i found a reasonably well rated pump from a company called racing lines - it was new but never fitted so I got that for a great price. And I got a bnib Fram filter for £3 which was nice, and a malpassi regulator and pressure gauge bnib. Fuel lines wise, Im using an-8 nylon braided line for the supply, an-10 for the pump supply line and the same but an-6 for the return, all from an ebay seller named torques_uk who seems highly regarded. To be honest its cost a fortune but its not an area that should be scrimped on.

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This is the one, i don’t have a part number for it, but it is adjustable between 1-5 bar so should be fine for my application. Do you have any views on this?

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Few jobs done over the last week then. Firstly the engine kit arrived from retroford, and its all really good stuff. Very well made and will suit me down to the ground. The engine got a check over, cleaned and paint and then the sump, mounts and water manifold fitted. 

I then gave the flywheel, clutch and type 9 a test fit and everything seems good. The lrs707 starter appears to be correct, the clutch release arm is sitting in the same position as with the pinto and the clutch cable bracket fits nicely. I am still waiting for a new spigot bearing so thats all i can do for now.

I then turned my attention to the wiring and fuel system. The wiring under the bonnet is already in good condition as i have worked on it previously, really it was just a case of taping the no longer required coil and dizzy wiring into the loom ( so everything is always reversible easily!) and moving the temp sender connection to the bulkhead. I already have a kenlowe electric fan fitted with a relay, which was activated by an inline sender. Ive removed this, and ran the earth for the relay also to the bulkhead where the new rad fan switch will live on the water rail. I plan to use the rad fan switch to switch the relay earth, because that way i will also be able to use the me221 management to also switch the same earth (probably via a diode but ive not looked at the me221 wiring yet) so i can fail safe the circuit.

With the fuel system Ive took the original fuel tank outlet out, cut it back flush and opened the feed hole up. Now i can weld an an10 fitting to it once i have some gas! The return, im just going to run a pipe through the sender, replicating the original setup on the senders mk2 escorts came with i think!) 

Still need to strip the cam cover back and paint that, its a real eyesore at the minute, but i also need to block the breather port on the back and fit my an an10 fitting on the side. 

I also moved the fuse box off bulkhead to the passenger footwell to ensure clearance, and cut the heater matrix hoses back flush with the bulkhead for the same reason. 

 

 

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Evening all, few more bits done. The cam cover has been modified to trim some unneeded excess from the back of it, move the breather port. Ive also painted it, and despite it turning out well, its mot really the colour I was after (much too dark). But it will certainly do for now!

The breather, i just cut the original port of the back of the cam cover, drilled it out from 10mm to 10.5 and ran a m12 tap down it, to take a odd slim bolt i had lying around. I then drilled a new hole to take an an6 fitting on the side. It has to go right in the corner so the original splash plate in the cam cover can retained, and continue performing its function. I will probably end up with a catch tank somewhere but id like to avoid tanks all over the place under the bonnet - i was hoping to find a combined unit so coolant expansion tank/oil catch tank in one, but they dint seem readily available. If anyone has any suggestions here, they would be welcome?

The new spigot bearing is in, so its just a case of bolting the box to it for hopefully the final time and planking it all in. I can do this Friday fingers crossed.

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Managed to get some time yesterday to get the engine and box mated together and dropped into the car. The grp4 tunnel certainly makes fitment far easier than with a standard tunnel, and im really pleased with the retroford mounts and sump. There isn't much tolerance around the bulkhead and subframe, yet everything fits perfectly. They also look factory finish which is pleasing!

The only thing that needs adressing is the gearbox mount which has ended up a few mm from where it sat before but to be honest thats a complete non issue all things considered. One thing that may come back to bite me is my choice if starter motor. All research pointed me toward an lrs707, when using a zetec flywheel. And thats what ive used, but i went cheap and it doesn't seem very good... i did power it up whilst on the floor and it engaged the ring gear and  span  the engine over but it doesn't fill me with confidence to be honest!

Plenty of stuff i can do now, but i do need to save some cash aswell - outstanding items now are exhaust, throttle bodies and engine management so not exactly cheap!

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HI all,

Little bit more progress made! The plan was to complete the fuel system after getting the engine in, so thats what ive been concentrating on. I have the pump and filter fitted in a very nice cradle, and I also got a bit of a deal on a superb pump/filter manifold from Torques_UK (who are fantastic by the way, cant say enough good things about them - everything's next day delivery, everything's quality and he answers all questions).

I then started getting the supply and return line ran in, which went well. The black lines and fittings against the green car look really good in my opinion (also in the picture ignore the fact that I only go one of the P Clip eyes over the bolt I noticed after looking at the picture I took and sorted it!). The lines are in the engine bay now, just need to decide where the regulator will sit. I really wanted it on the bulkhead by the brake res, however there may not be enough room, and it may end up living on the inner wing. I need to work that out. I also got the return line fitted into the sender which is great, to be sure i half filled the tank with fuel and hung it upside down so the sender was the lowest point and nothing leaked (better safe than sorry!). I also sorted the supply to the pump fitting but this I'm less happy with. Its fine, it doesn't leak, but I really want a proper adapter. So being unable to locate one, I've commissioned a company to make them. I have managed to muster some interest on another forum, so I should be able to sell a couple to cover the minimum order cost of 10.

Finally one thing I wasn't expecting to get this month was a set of throttle bodies, which also came up at a very respectable price (half what I expected to end up paying). They are from a Hayabusa and came with a manifold to suit and the injector harness. 

Next steps now will be to wait for payday! And then order the cooling system parts I need. I'm going to use RF pipes, although costly, it will be nice to just have them fit without messing around.I am still trying to source an expansion tank that I like, lots on ebay but I just haven't seen one that I think will suit properly yet. Id like a cylindrical one that I can get tucked into the nearside corner really. I am half thinking of running waterless coolant and no expansion tank, but ive also thought there are some fundamental flaws with doing that so im undecided as yet.

From that point, I will just need engine management and an exhaust - everything else should be done! I had the engine turning over on the key the other day which was good to hear, though I still need to put a cam belt kit on it so it was only a brief flick!

 

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1 hour ago, Scortedvan said:

I am still trying to source an expansion tank that I like, lots on ebay but I just haven't seen one that I think will suit properly yet. Id like a cylindrical one that I can get tucked into the nearside corner really. I am half thinking of running waterless coolant and no expansion tank, but ive also thought there are some fundamental flaws with doing that so im undecided as yet.

 

Have a look on Fac3book for Alwyn Zakham Bickham.

He might be able to help you out with this.  His work is of a high quality.

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Thanks for the heads up - im not on Retards Club but I'll get the missus to get in touch with him later. Ive just looked through some pics a black cossy mk2 and the combined brake and clutch reservoirs he built for it is exactly what I'm after for coolant and oil catch! Thanks again

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The bay in mine is so jammed I couldn't fit an expansion tank if I wanted to but I've gone the Evans waterless coolant route - always planned so that's sorted. Just got to repair the cylinder head now ! ! ! 

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16 minutes ago, katana said:

The bay in mine is so jammed I couldn't fit an expansion tank if I wanted to but I've gone the Evans waterless coolant route - always planned so that's sorted. Just got to repair the cylinder head now ! ! ! 

Did you see the head Steve put pics up of yesterday on Vulcan Engineering Retards Club page?

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Not on faceache (haven't even got a smart phone - such a luddite!) so wouldn't have seen it - Think i'm sorted though, got a refurbed 2.0L head for good money, should be delivered tomorrow if all the starts align!

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3 hours ago, katana said:

The bay in mine is so jammed I couldn't fit an expansion tank if I wanted to but I've gone the Evans waterless coolant route - always planned so that's sorted. Just got to repair the cylinder head now ! ! ! 

Exactly this - i really want to have the engine bay as clear as possible if i can, by the time regulators, catch cans and expansion tanks are fitted it all starts to look a but cramped! Theres a pic online of a green mk1 engine bay with a black top zetec, you can see nothing but the engine intake and exhaust and it looks brilliant.

How are you finding the waterless coolant? I carried the conversion out on a customers car and i was quite impressed by it, however the inability to carry out emergency topups i always found a bit of an issue!

Kind Regards

Joe

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50 minutes ago, Scortedvan said:

Exactly this - i really want to have the engine bay as clear as possible if i can, by the time regulators, catch cans and expansion tanks are fitted it all starts to look a but cramped! Theres a pic online of a green mk1 engine bay with a black top zetec, you can see nothing but the engine intake and exhaust and it looks brilliant.

How are you finding the waterless coolant? I carried the conversion out on a customers car and i was quite impressed by it, however the inability to carry out emergency topups i always found a bit of an issue!

Kind Regards

Joe

Don't know yet - just finished all the electrics and discovered 3 snapped exhaust valves ! ! ! So have to fix that first but hopefully it'll be running some time next month! The coolant loss doesn't worry me - Litre bottles are available, so i'll keep one of those in the boot!

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11 hours ago, katana said:

The bay in mine is so jammed I couldn't fit an expansion tank if I wanted to but I've gone the Evans waterless coolant route - always planned so that's sorted. Just got to repair the cylinder head now ! ! ! 

Does that waterless coolant take away any horsepower like some suggest?

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5 hours ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Does that waterless coolant take away any horsepower like some suggest?

I haven't seen any such comments but haven't been looking for them either! The fluid appears 'thicker' than water, definitely more slippery but how any HP loss would be measurable - Hmmm! To my thinking adding 1 bar pressure over water against zero pressure in an Evans system is as detrimental for power - its probably bar room speculation and beer bollux!  

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I would hazard a guess to say if the fluid is more viscous, then it would put a touch more pressure on the water pump.  If there's no issues in chasing BHP numbers, then there's no issue. It would be so minimal anyway, why worry about it?

Either way, from what I've read on this waterless coolant, it seems to be pretty good and would give a bit more peace of mind to people doing tour runs etc.

I can remember going into the Services on the M4 coming back from Heathrow and saw a MK1 Capri in the car park with a trickle of water coming out the back end of it.  I went back to my car and put a note under the wiper blade.

One KFC and a loo stop later, the Cappa was gone and I got in my car to resume my run home.  About 3 miles past the services, there he was on the hard shoulder, bonnet up with steam coming out of his bay.  As I looked at him, I could see his lips moving "if only I'd gone Evans"...

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13 hours ago, dt36 said:

I would hazard a guess to say if the fluid is more viscous, then it would put a touch more pressure on the water pump.  If there's no issues in chasing BHP numbers, then there's no issue. It would be so minimal anyway, why worry about it?

Either way, from what I've read on this waterless coolant, it seems to be pretty good and would give a bit more peace of mind to people doing tour runs etc.

I can remember going into the Services on the M4 coming back from Heathrow and saw a MK1 Capri in the car park with a trickle of water coming out the back end of it.  I went back to my car and put a note under the wiper blade.

One KFC and a loo stop later, the Cappa was gone and I got in my car to resume my run home.  About 3 miles past the services, there he was on the hard shoulder, bonnet up with steam coming out of his bay.  As I looked at him, I could see his lips moving "if only I'd gone Evans"...

LOL But if it was leaking water then it so too it would leak Evens coolant? The stuff may also have a higher boiling point but a boiling tragedy is an underlying signifier that the cooling system is not operating efficiently or too specification. Evans would not have been boiling true but it would still be running at the same temperature with the underlying cause of the overheating still there and reaching that critical fatigue temperature of engine components is still same regardless of the coolant type and you would be reaching that critical point without any warning signs like a boil over. In fact because it has a slower heat transfer they admit it runs hotter at the head. I think people may confuse the high boiling point for better protection when in fact it could just be concealing overheating within system when it exceeds engine temperature limit. It definitely is appealing for its anti-corrosive properties and longevity but it doesn't fix overheating caused by mechanical issues it just hides that through lack of boiling over. It took me a while to get my head around it but its not the miracle solution to your overheating MG or old classic that is running too hot for whatever reason, it will still be running too hot you just wont be alerted to the fact. Fix the cause of that overheat not think a miracle fluid is compensating for the the cause of your overheating, it simply isnt.

I would have been mouthing I should have fixed the leak and top up the fluid when some decent chap took the trouble to warn me about it before I head down the road!

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The biggest advantage I can see with it is the pressure reduction in the system - and this was the reason a customer asked for it. Without the pipes/heat exchangers under constant pressure/stress the likelihood of leaks will be reduced to an extent at least. But the con to me as I said before is; what happens should you have a leak and you don't have a waterless coolant top up bottle to hand? Putting water in is essentially writing of ~£60 worth of fluid, and then needing to go through prep work again would be irritating. 

That said I am very tempted by it, and at the minute I'm swaying towards using it, and just making sure I have a top up bottle in the boot as Katana mentions! Nice to hear different peoples opinions on the subject though.

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