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Ford Cortina MK3 306cid windsor


Sultzi
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Hi!

This car had originally 1.3l kent so needed somekind of update to it. So now it has 2.8TT engine with cosworth t5 gearbox and Volvo 1031 rear axle with detroit truetrac lock.

This vid shows pretty good how the car has come together past the years: http://sultzi.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Videoita/Cortinapart1.wmv

You can find all the pics during project in here: http://sultzi.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Ford+Cortina+-71+V6/

And now I'm putting a bigger radiator to it and changing camshaft once again! Car haven't been dynod yet, so don't know about power yet. Maybe this year or during next will get this to dyno :)

Comments welcome :)

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  • 9 months later...

Interior almost done, just little tweeks here and there still needed. But starts to look like car again! :)

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Boot updated (new catch tank, new fuel lines, better secondary pump)

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Oil catch tank finded place inside passenger side front wing

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Engine bay now (bigger radiator, davies craig electric water pump, new fuel lines, 1260cc injectors, new fuel pressure regulator etc.)

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Thank you for the kind words :)

 

So, I did drive with this around 13000km and one day driving home from work, hitting the rev limiter on 3rd gear one inlet valve dropped due to broken retainer (oe). And now when engine is put to pieces, I discovered that Kent Cams springs ain't much stiffer than original ones, so that's pretty sure the reason why that retainer gave up. Did measure them now and they gave around 33kg seat pressure and 80kg at maximum lift.

 

Here you can see the damage

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Couple other retainers had cracks also

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So I decided to build completely new engine with hopefully better components.

 

Main thing is new pistons. I did calculate cr of the old engine and discovered that I had calculated it very wrong earlier. I thought I have cr around 8.2:1 but it was in reality around 7.3:1 :dope: Which is very low for even gasoline powered engines and I did use e85 as fuel on this. So new pistons came from CP-pistons and they will give CR of 10:1 which works alot better with turbocharged e85 motor.

 

CP needed mould of the head to design new piston. I bolted head to the block and stuffed handful of putty and let it dry over night. Result was ok. I actually did new one also because factory didn't see center line of the wrist pin accurate enough from first mold. Second one I did mould directly to one old piston.

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And this is what factory did come up with

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Took about 6months to get these, but nice and shiny

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Next thing was to get more rigid block with billet main girdle. One Ford enthusiast already had made one for 2.9 v6 and I did modify the picture to fit this 2.8 block.

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Block to start with (too big, plans did change)

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And ready

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Oil pump almost fitted, but little grinding and all was ok.

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Drilled and tapped m8 holes for the oilpan line

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ARP studs little bit too short, but friend of mine did mill material off couple mm..

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Oil pan needed to be done also, did use sump of the old one and made new mounting plates..

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Pressure plates for drilling the block to get round bores..

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Starter ring welded to flywheel to ensure it stays on

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New roller rockers from harland sharp with 1.6 ratio

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Cylinder heads needed modification to take double valve springs from Crower. Trial tested the tool for crap head

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Drilled holes to make sure there is enough material left

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Real heads done

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Will update more later on.. :)

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Thank you, will try make pretty much everything better this time :) Also boost will be more this time, previosly I drove with 1bar but this time I going to try around 1.3-1.4bar which is turbochargers maximum for reasonable boost without too much hot air. Will be monitoring also exhaust pressure, haven't done it yet, will be interesting to see where it goes with boost pressure..

 

Got some better crmo retainers

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Measuring which crank to use, this one was the best with only 0.005 of twisting measurable

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Some chinese egt sensors for each pipe

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Injectors serviced

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Bought block o-ringing tool to prevent head gasket failure with higher cr and boost pressures

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Making new fuel rails

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Fuelab electric fuel pressure regulator

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Chinese 65mm thorttle body

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I sold that beaten up cossy box and bought BMW E90 330D box, ZF GS6-53DZ. This will handle more than 1000nm of torque and should be nice to change gears also. 6-speed with extra short 1st (nice to have with hard clutch)

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Here we have bellhousing all welded up to be bolt on behind this v6

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Trial fitted the box the to block

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Ratios are these, pretty reasonable for this engine

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This type of box has pivot bearing in the axle itself (two kinds of avaible), so I draw this to be mounted under flywheel bolts.

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Some room have to be made to the tunnel

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Modified orignal gearbox crossmember

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Bought new clutch pressure plate, good for 900nm with sintered plate

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Also bought new parts for propshaft, slide part need to be on the propshaft due the new box

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And draw this adapter behind the box to mount the propshaft

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Some update to the rear axle also. Made new lower arm mounting points to get the arms in better angle with this lowered driving height.. Also did throw new bearings to the diff at the same time.

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It's now painted and mounted back to the car.

 

Adjustable upper arms

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Got me a set of new wheel also.

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These accuire some body work to fit, front end is easy

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Rear need some work, around 25mm out is needed for the body, in this picture is already taken out something like 15mm..

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Rear master cylinder is moved to the trunk (sierra abs version), made bracket for it

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Also electric power steering pump relocated to trunk

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Couple these to the engine bay, one for brake to the trunk line and another for clutch

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New gps speedometer

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Some room for the propshaft at the back, did hit the body when accelerating and hitting to hole or something

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Will update soon some more :)

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