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Coolant / Anti freeze


BaileyMex

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Our local offerings are of course different from yours but we do get differing qualities. The better ones are premium pre-mixed with de-mineralised water and some state they are "long life". I have had cheaper ones that crystallised inside the engine after I left it standing for a couple of months and I had to take the inlet manifold off, change the water pump and thermostat and housing and stick a pressure hose directly into the block to wash it out as well as the expected radiator removal and reverse flush. The crap went everywhere and all the grass died around the driveway where I did it! While I have heard it said that they are all much of a muchness I totally disagree. Look for known brands you have heard off, and the "Premium", "Long Life" and "De-Mineralised Premix" tags.

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There are particular mixes to suit engine internal make up's ie. majority cast iron, steel with small quantities of aluminium and others aimed at majority Alloy engines!

Corrosion and degradation can be significant if wrong coolant used - also mixing brands / types or mixing std with long life! Easier to stick to one brand and/or completely drain and refill with new every couple of years!

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Going to drain and flush the whole thing and re fill with fresh, not been done for years as been off the road so time to do it,

May opt for this as I have seen it referenced on other classic sites

https://www.holtsauto.com/prestone/products/coolant-antifreeze-ready-use/

Anyone tried this in an OSF?

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Recently drained the coolant on my car and flushed the system with new G12 coolant (pink). Then filled it up with the G12 stuff but only after I removed the radiator and flushed that also (upside down). Couldn't believe that crap that came out of that. And as Ian said never mix different kinds of coolant.

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BTW - I use the Evans waterless coolant so this is all by the by for me 😀But my bike on the other hand is very particular about coolant spec - silicate free alloy engine! Royal PITA so stick with Halfrauds Brand of correct spec, pre mixed, and so far trouble free. I've heard / seen evidence of water pump seals failing due to incorrect coolant, so it is a thing!

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Shouldn't be that difficult should it 😁, I've not bought any yet either.

Some say pink, some say blue and to go for one with blue glyco in older engines. the Hagerty Classic Car website said Green!! > https://www.hagerty.com/media/archived/cool-under-pressure/

Like you, it's never cold so the antifreeze bit it irrelevant, just the cooling and corrosion prevention really.

 

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2 minutes ago, BaileyMex said:

Like you, it's never cold so the antifreeze bit it irrelevant, :dope:

Sorry? Where do you live in the UK that it never drops below 0C ? ? ? As i've personally experienced a totally frozen radiator from overnight sub zero temps in Surrey - it does happen! Admittedly the coolant was probably closer to water than a mixture but there was some in there! An original cooling system is open to the air and if you've got water and air - you'll get rust! Build a system that is closed to the air ie. with expansion / pressure vessels, rust potential is minimised but the coolant mixes don't just minimise rust, there are plenty of other metals all of which are subject to galvanic corrosion - the coolant helps with that as well.

If you doubt the effectiveness - just fill the system with de-ionised or reverse osmosis water only and pray for eternal warm weather 🤣

 

 

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23 minutes ago, katana said:

Sorry? Where do you live in the UK that it never drops below 0C ? ? ? As i've personally experienced a totally frozen radiator from overnight sub zero temps in Surrey - it does happen! Admittedly the coolant was probably closer to water than a mixture but there was some in there! An original cooling system is open to the air and if you've got water and air - you'll get rust! Build a system that is closed to the air ie. with expansion / pressure vessels, rust potential is minimised but the coolant mixes don't just minimise rust, there are plenty of other metals all of which are subject to galvanic corrosion - the coolant helps with that as well.

If you doubt the effectiveness - just fill the system with de-ionised or reverse osmosis water only and pray for eternal warm weather 🤣

All I was saying is that during winter, even if we do get freezing conditions, the car is in a heated location, so remains at a decent temperature.

The daily cars outside would of course be susceptible to a freezing rad if not using the right anti freeze, but the Mex has a nice toasty rad next to the front of the car all winter

 

 

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46 minutes ago, BaileyMex said:

Some say pink, some say blue and to go for one with blue glyco in older engines. the Hagerty Classic Car website said Green!! > https://www.hagerty.com/media/archived/cool-under-pressure/

So you haven't spoken to the guy who says use Evans waterless coolant ...

Whatever you get don't mix it with anything else.

Edited by Miniliteman
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Cheers all

Ordered 8 litres of the Prestone ready mixed stuff from Toolstation at just over £15 for 4 litres, so will have plenty and some to spare.

https://www.toolstation.com/prestone-antifreeze-coolant-ready-to-use/p72674?_br_psugg_q=prestone+antifreeze+coolant?searchstr=prestone

Will drain and do a plain water run and flush, then use Holts Rad flush to try to flush out some of the crud, then re-fill.

 

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5 minutes ago, Johnny Boy said:

I’ve never used Prestone , but it’s blurb does sound like it’s very good all round.

 

Watched a few vids on YouTube and the general consensus is that it is good stuff - 🤞🏻

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I've always use Ethylene glycol on my 70s/80s/90s cars   When I bought my Cortina,I poured in 100% neat Bluecol BLA005 to make sure the internals get nourished well. As we know,when we drain the coolant,not all of the old coolant  comes out. So when I poured in the Bluecol,it was slightly diluted. I  driven it for a day,so it gets pumped around the system. Once cooled,I drain it and then dilute it accordingly.

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