Pug

Just as an update I decided that I needed to get the car back on the road before I miss anymore of summer such as it's been this year! I decided to put the old adaptor back so with some careful filling and cutting I managed to make use of the bit of thread that was undamaged. I carefully screwed it back into the block, it was fairly tight and I got about two full turns. Being aluminium it has probably damaged what thread remains but I used a bit of thread sealer to prempt any potential leaks. This also meant that the existing electric sensor could be reused. I'm leaving it 24 hours before testing to let the thread sealer to 'go off' although the one I used doesn't harden. Once we get to the winter I can spend a bit more time getting it sorted. Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions, always good to get ideas to help progress a situation.

Do you think that in the past someone has put the aluminium adaptor in and that's why the thread is so damaged? How do I check that it's a helicoil?

But it's not UNC either, photo here

I don't think it's a UNF thread. I've tried a 1/2" UNF tap which doesn't fit nicely. I've tried to take a photo which I think shows that the thread in the engine block is courser than UNF.

Don't worry, I'd never shoot the messenger. I'm always open to all suggestions or opinions and never assume anything. You have in fact raised some very interesting ideas. The aluminium adaptor was very hard to get out so I'm not sure whether it got damaged going in or coming out. I did check straightaway in the engine block for debris and didn't see anything although I do share your concern that some may have found it's way into the engine. I will consider changing the oil. I can only assume that the thread on the adaptor is NPT as that what the eBay listing stated. Unfortunately I don't have any taps to check. All the adaptors I see on eBay and elsewhere state NPT so I can't see that the supplier got this wrong. I'll do a bit of research for another adaptor unless anyone can suggest a good quality one? Thanks again for your post 👍

I've checked that and it's all clear 🤔

Update: I ordered another oil adaptor but still having problems fitting it. The attached photos show the old adaptor, the new one and the old sensor. The new adaptor won't screw into the block as it seems too big. If I measure the thread in the block with callipers it's 11mm. The thread on the new adaptor is 13mm. I know I'm measuring the major diameter on the adaptor and the minor diameter in the block but a 2mm difference seems a lot. I also understand that the thread is tapered so the dimensions will be slightly different along the length of the thread. As you can see in the photo the thread on the old adaptor has been badly damaged so there was obviously a problem when this was fitted previously. Strangely the sensor will screw nicely into the old adaptor but will only go two turns in the new adaptor before it comes to a stop. I'm reluctant to force it as the thread in the aluminium adaptor will easily be damaged. The sensor will not screw directly into the block. I've checked the thread in the block by running a pick along the thread and it appears to be undamaged. All this keeps me thinking that the thread in the block is slightly different to the adaptors but it's very close. The block is definitely not 1/8 ntp as that is far too small. I'm at a loss so has anyone got any suggestions?

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll order something with 1/4 ntp thread which I hope will fit ok.

What thread/size is in the block on a 1600 x flow? I've got a pressure sensor which I think has a 1/4 ntp male thread but it seems too big to fit in the block. It's not massively big, just a mm or so. I've tried a 1/8 ntp fitting but this is far too small. Are there any other thread sizes?

Yes, bearings ok as were the brushes. The alternator didn't look that old so must have been a failed rectifier or regulator.

Thanks for this. In the end I got a repair kit which I fitted this morning and pleased to say that my alternator is working properly now. Thanks again for everyone's advice!

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Good tip, thanks.

Thanks for the information. If it was a dynamo the last time I done something like this it must have been a long time ago 😳 I do have a sleeve for the back but a very long bolt which is probably not standard. I'll sort some more appropriate bolts when I put it back.

Thanks vista for the useful advice. I've now taken the alternator off and found that the the lower bracket is about 6mm shorter than the lug spacing on the alternator. There's some extra washers etc to make up for this. It also has two separate bolts rather than one long one going through both lugs. Is this normal?

I I mean a Lucas substitute

So the view is that it's better to get a refurbished Lucas?

I think you are right that it's a Lucas!

I'm pretty sure my alternator needs replacing. I've tested the output both at the battery and also at the two red wired terminals on the alternator itself. They measure 12.5 volts at tick over and there's no change when the engine is revved. There's no markings on my existing alternator so I'd like to know what specification I need. Details are: 1979 Escort currently fitted with a 1600 xflow (now1700cc). 70 Ah battery in the boot. Current alternator has 3 terminals, two thick red wires and a thinner blue one (which I assume goes to the ignition light?) Recommendations on make would be welcome too.

Thanks for getting in touch. It's certainly a lovely car. I'll message you.

Thanks!

Sorry, I may be being thick but I can't see any code in the message 🤔

What is the code I need to book?