class-ified

I was chasing leaks for an age. The corner of the front and rear screens, the external trim fitting clips, the door seals, the courtesy light door switches, the c pillar vents, the heater, the panel seams... The trick is to paint on rust converter having lifted the carpet, after it rains witness marks will show you where the water is coming from.

I got an engine from jem engines in scotland when the exchange rate went crazy to the rep of ireland for 90 sterling on a mini pallet, the irish side was taken care of by landbridge ltd. their email address is info@landbridge.ie i have a phone number as well 028 90629080 i think it is an irish number. Do you mind me asking who built up the engine for you?

Took the radiator out, looks very shook. Holding water but the fins are dropping out left, right and centre. Been offered a brand new Radtec racing pinto radiator, stant cap, fan and inline switch gear for 200 euro from the fella that sold me the 1300cc mark II escort. Is a radiator of this cooling capacity asking for trouble on such a small engine, was thinking i'd use only glycol (anti freeze) instead of water glycol mix to lower the cooling capacity, obstruct a section of the fins to reduce the convective area, use flexible hose to make connections or modify the connections. It'll cost the same to recon the radiator i currently have and buy a fan kit. Am I right to see this as a future proof sweet deal or are there any catches? Are standard radiator still effective less a significant number of fins. Is it possible to fit these radiators without cutting the radiator shroud top and bottom?

Just a heads up, the anti drive kit requires the twin cam front anti roll bar to clear the double width mounts.

Toby Had the brother hammerin away on the clutch pedal while i'd my head under the car, looking at the clutch fork with the gaiter peeled back, not the cable for sure. sporty-courty16v Bell housing is well secured to the engine and gearbox. I'm thinking i'll order up from burtons a standard clutch kit, cable and aligning tool. Got a sissor lift for a motor bike, should make lighter work of supporting the gearbox. Cheers for all the advise.

X flow 1300: air filter, mild steel 4 2 1 manifold, large bore stainless steel system. Traffic lights thrashing, been happy out with the bite and feel of the old clutch just lookin at life expectancy, is this just the car showing its age or a habit of all clutches.

Checked the connection of the clutch cable to the pedal and clutch fork, made sure there were no issues at the fire wall and that the cable hadn't collapsed. Got the brother to press the pedal and the clutch fork behaved as expected. Guess this means new clutch, any recommendations, been looking at the burton power catalogue, standard or uprated, bearing in mind i have a history of clutch abuse? Advise greatly appreciated.

Cheers for the heads up, i'll check the cable come the morning, here's to hoping it's as simple as that.

Driving hard today in the mark 2 esc, lost all feel out of the clutch pedal, still able to go between gears with difficulty, a firm hand at the right revs, but a standing start was near impossible, the clutch was either bitting or not when selecting gear, got her home though. The feel of the clutch pedal is totally different now, doesn't feel like the clutch cable is broken though. The engine is sounding sweet. No hassle selecting gears with the engine off. The diff is running quite, execpt at a standing start, think this is down to the way the clutch is bitting. Thinking clutch, never experienced a clutch just go, always got some kind of warning. Does this sound like a release bearing failure to anyone? Thanks Rob

The neighbours not to fond of me after the failed attempt on my mark 2 resuled in his car being taken and burnt out. They had the know how, reconnected the coil, started, ht lead only to realise no battery, in the process they put in a window, did a job on the columb, ignition and loom. The car was revisited again since. Now its behind a removable bollard.

Ford Xflow Trigger Wheel Kit

Deluxe Loom Kit & Additional 2m of Shielded Wire

Silicone HT Leads

EDIS 4 Kit - EDIS 4 Module & Connection, Coilpack & Connection, VR Sensor & Connection

MegaJolt Lite Jr. - Load Sensor Type: Manifold Absolute Pressure

Wait one, pics are coming.

Arrived as expected just gotta get my post count up before i can post images. Bear with me on this one.

After placing an order with trigger-wheels expecting delivery today. Google trigger-wheels for further details. MegaJolt Lite Jr. - Load Sensor Type: Manifold Absolute Pressure - £110 EDIS 4 Kit - EDIS 4 Module & Connection, Coilpack & Connection, VR Sensor & Connection - £35 Silicone HT Leads - £25 Deluxe Loom Kit & Additional 2m of Shielded Wire - £24 Ford Xflow Trigger Wheel Kit - £39 Postage & Packaging - £35 (Steep even for shipping to the Rep. of Ireland) The MegaJolt Lite Jr. is a programmable ignition controller designed to work in conjunction with the Ford EDIS module. The two combined creates a stand-alone, fully programmable, crank-fired and distributor-less ignition system for 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engines. Google autosportlabs for further details. Bound for a 1300 Xflow with 4-2-1 long centre branch manifold (Probably think i'm cracked). Just looking to touch base with other MegaJolters. Rob.