deluxemk1

Ricks idea sounds best i think not that ive done it before leading should be ok I think . Lead kits are available from frost restoration or eastwood I belive

circuit racing ,drag racing etc aside dont bother roller rockers seem a waste of time if your driving on roads with 30 limits and cameras !

As said above I guess never wet flatt filler.Dry blocking primer is the right way and final flatting can be done dry with a dry flatting system or wet. I got to be honest I do tend to wet flat the last stage on primer with 800 . It is a good idea to make sure each panel is dryed as quick as possible after its flatted and clean with some panel wipe. I tend to run a bake on my booth if its a whole car flatted to ensure no moisture is present before top coat stages. If you are doing it at home use a good cellulose high build primer mix it 60 percent primer 40 per cent thinner. If you only want to use an aerosol look at your paint factors or I belive Halfords actually sell it now UPOL HIGH 5 high build primer in a can not 2 pack but good for small repairs and better than the mickey mouse ones that are normally for sale in there. If youve got any bare metal it will need a etch primer first or it wont stick.Look for another aerosol can in the same rang prob next to the other one in halfords called UPOL ACID 8 thaey should do you .As far as keeping the panel damp free just put a heat gun on it (NINE QUID FROM MACHINE MART) to ensure all the damp is out

Nice one well done chap. Oh saw your granada estate up your road today tis well cool

I have no words for that just a phone call to the RSPCA. ROYAL SOCIETY of PROTECTION of CRUELTY to ANGLIAS. Get the guy responsable for that locked away before hes allowed to do that to another car.

Yeah use lighter coats mate paint it half as wet.Degrease it first as well.You are more likely to get reaction on the first coat if its to wet.

Nice jobs,the blue engine bay looks just like the pic of fezzas bay I did before xmas minus the strut brace ! Nice work going on there

Thanks for the help guys Il go to the workshop and check today

Thanks er sadly the o rings are not overtightened I feared that and replaced em again with new ones .The lock nuts on the carbs have been tightened just enough to leave that 1mm gap or so they say to leave between the two brass cup washer with the rubber sandwiched between them so thats okay.The float cuts off the fuel flow easily and quickly so I think thats okay as well. God knows wots wrong! One other thing for initial start up the mixture screws should be wound right in and then wound out exactly one full turn on each screw am I right?

Get a ready mixed matt laquer.Look for a paint supplier like Brown Brothers etc or you local professional paint supplier. Just mix it with the hardener it requires. Thats only if you want your car t have a matt or satin finish that wont rust .I think people are getting confused here.If you want to do a shiny bit of paintwork the same as the rest of your car and you just want to protect your repairs from the weather before the big painting session , primer the repaired areas.Leave overnight then flat the repaired bits with 500 grit rubbing down discs dry or you can wet flat em with 800 wet and dry.If you wet flat it make sure you dry the primed bits with a heat gun or similar to get any damp out.Then just spot a little single pack laquer on the primed bits to seal em from the weather.That will lt you drive the car in the rain and give to time to do the other bits in stages without worry.When the day to do your paint job is here just flat the panels off all over with 1200 laquered repaired bits and the rest of the panels your going to paint .clean em mask em and walop your colour of choice over the lot as normal.Hope that helps ya.Remember in closing if you dont have breathing gear dont use two pack paint .Ask the paint company you deal with for single pack or 1k paint or laquer.All the best

Hey everyone I need help for a change ,rather than lecturing about paintwork I need help with carbs.Twin 40s to be exact Right heres the drama ,I have a set of holbay (yeah I know they arnt the best ones!) 40s .The carbs are rebuilt and serviced mated onto Ian Walker inlet manifolds.When I fired these carbs up a year ago they poured petrol out the back carb.Since then the engine was left for a while .I orignally thought I had a dodgy o ring seal and replaced it.No joy still chucking it out.Then thought fuel over pressuring and surging because it had the mechanical ac pump on them.So scrapped that for a electric pump,filter king regulator etc from rally design so I got a steady even flow at 3psi to them.Checked the bowls inside were full of fuel by removing the top of each carb and running pump and moving float to check fuel flow and cut off.These seem fine .So when I put it all back together and cranked it on the push button soleloid and worked the throttle linkage to my disgust the poxy back carb started chucking fuel out again in the same place.Got the raving ump with it now cos I hoped all the money sorting the fuel system and new o rings would sort the pig out.Dont think the float height is excessive either.If I cant sort it Im gonna offer a reward to anyone who can sort it on our open day this saturday at the workshop.Please help Im a helpless car painter I dont understand such things Whose clever with 40s then ?

Nice one SHINER ! Wel have to be getting you some sunglasses to hide that fine specimen thursday nite or up garage saturday at our open day ! HE HE .(Mitchvilles)

Yeah thats the stuff all different brands but thats the gear youd need

Kris is a diamond geezer Do buisness with him .Not sure bout pop rubbers but had some trouble with fit on east kent stuff (mk1 tina) might be resolved now though We did some hot rod pop stuff coulpe of years back and Kris was the most helpful guy we had a lot of dealings with him .Hes your man

V8 ian is right.If you want the rat look it needs laquer on it.Ive done a few rods that need what we call the suede look matt metallic like it looks when its just the basecoat on there.There is a additive you can put in normal clear laquer called matting agent ,and in fact some paint manufacturers can supply it premixed eg glasurit do it if anyone wants it look for a company called MORRELIE .You can just buy the matt agent ,but remember its got to be the same manufacturer as the laquer you are going to use with it .Experience also tells me if you add the twenty percent or so to the laquer as recommened its not normally enough id add bout 35 percent to your laquer.Paint the clear not quite as hard as you would normally either as sometimes it will still gloss.Seen it recntly on a ford pop rod a mate did ,not enuf matt in the mix and painted to wet, It came out gloss grey instead of rat primer . Id use the premixed stuff much better result.If you put this over primer/matt black etc you will get the same durability as youd get with normal shiny paint but you get that tough look !

ARGOSHIELD CO2 should be kept in fire extinguishers on in the pub

Two pack primer will probably be ok for a little while (few weeks) Cellulose primer will hold back water as much as a bath sponge.Even if it looks alright moisture gets in and underneath it giving that lovely microblistering to your new paint about three months after its sprayed nice n shiny then that damp just want to get out again!If its got to go outside id flat it as if ready for paint then just flick a bit of clear laquer on the primer bit to seal it from the weather.Then on paint day just flat it with 1200 and wack your colour on .Hope that helps

Cheers fellas wouldnt say wise words just think the way to get on in life is be fair to people .Pricing realisticly is better in the end cos people know what they are getting for the money they pay,being the cheapest doesnt mean thats what people want for their pride and joy .Our cars are more special and will always be treatly differently to the daily driver shopping trolley stuff.Gonna do a open afternoon/evening sat 9th Feb if anyone wants to bring down their ford that would be cool probably do a bbq at the garage for those that turn up.If not then Il stuff my face and drink any beer lying about .Before I get pissed Il offer any answers to questions body n paint wise if anyone wants to ask .Loads of parking outside workshop .There is a cafe next door on the estate doing fry ups til 3pm then its my burgers after .Hopefuly Il see some of you there. Mitchvilles in on the isle of sheppy.Junction 7 m20,then a249 toward sheppy, piece of cake to find.Those who got sat nav punch in ME11 5HN Look for Klondyke Industrial estate Its signposted.

The Anglia is allowed I guess cos its got the salt flat thing going on.I remember that in the 90s at thurrock n chelsea cruise.It was always parked with Rattle n Hum the purple pro street mk1 tina .The escort,er measure twice cut once id say and check it was measured in centimetres then not cut in millimetres by accident

Ok top top tip let us pros do the prep unless youve done it several times before.It actually can cause more work for a painter if you flat good sound paint with the wrong grit papers etc although having said that your avarage old skool ford will probably need 2 pack priming all over the outer shell at least.I estimate most repaints including engine bay at 2200 to 2500. A decent repaint in a booth with good materials will be 1800 to 2000 pounds.Reason being its a weeks work for one man really to get nice most workshops will be 20 pounds and hour which is good when you see that a main dealer warranty on machanical charges at 40 pound per hour! That 2 grand breaks down easily at 20 per hour allow 900 to a grand for the guy to take his normal 100 pound a day wage then have 400 quid to keep the upkeep on his shop which if its like mine it cost me over 40 grand to get going anyway!600 quid will be paint and masking materials rubbing down discs ,all that stuff that said thats for nice paint like glasurit (which new bmws are painted in ) or ICI paint not that mickey mouse junk people tart up used cars on forcourts with.The remaining 200 allow for a little profit or covers any additional dings work that might be missed on the first guesstimate of the job! The industry standard for a normal new car repaint is 80hrs which works out at 3 grand for a new car with very minor damage.So that 1800 to two grand is a real touch really.Expect a nice job for that money a grand gets it sprayed one colour with cheap paint normally by a painter called Biffo or Toppo wearing larger than normal shoes ,red nose,and strangely enough his work shop is normally a marquee rather than built of bricks .You know the rest I think! simon. (MITCHVILLE AUTOBODIES BOSS PAINTER BLOKE)

Gazebo sounds like the best move.Covering cars can play hell with paintwork.Ive done repaints on cars because of microblistering.I had a v8 anglia a few years ago,painted it ,left it to breathe with no cover for six months then put a nice breathable cover on and it blistered on the roof and bonnet.Best to keep the shite off and let air move arund it freely!

Bear in mind when you do that, a vehicle body shell is designed with what is refered to as stressed and unstressed panels.Cars with bolted or unstressed panels in its design have the stressed sections strengthened for accident damage.Normaly a car with stressed panels ie welded wings carries some of its strength through these panels,by fixing these panels with bolts it can make the shell weaker in a accident than it normally would be.Sounds like a good idea as long as you are aware its not as strong if you bash it unless you beef up the chassis here and there

That looks like that colour mk2 consuls sometimes had on them think it was called seafoam blue.Could be matched from what we call a colour brick or basicly spraychips that gradually go from dark to light in each colour very gradually

Thanks for your comments everyone It means a lot to us ,starting a buisness is tough. I really want a workshop where all car nuts are welcome ,hopefully I will organise some cruise nites over to us this year when the weather is better for all us ford nuts .Thankyou Lee for letting us mess with your car it was fun to do! Mister Bicker our paint brush awaits you Asbos capri is next in Cheers simon.

I restore old cars for a living,Ud have to be absolutley demented to take that car on god.Ud need to spend about 8 grand on the body,2 or three on the trim plus the hood and then the mechanical bill,its not that easy to get those bits either I had til recently a mk1 consul and although john blythe golden days ford etc are very good think this would be a mission,thats about 20 grand to do that by the time you bought all the bits plus buying it 27grand for a mk1 mmmmmm