slimrs

Or they could've been the early RS2600 ones (afaik) Oh and slimrs still...... of the capri its not an x pack yet im attempting to put it on myself

but its sooooooooooooo tempting

im really after 15s mate, but ill have a think about it and let you know, might get a new set for the cossie capri

cheers kev, where can i get revos from, been looking online and cant find any that are 9+?

just bought a mk2 capri with an xpack, but it needs some wheels. what widths can i go for or does it depend on the wheels, would like to go 10x15 but i cant seem to find any. any ideas?

why dont you keep the capper then mate

is yours the blue one mate, that looks mint i dont want to sell it but i havent got the funds to finish it properly

I'm hoping for some where between 4k-5k but not really sure!

im thinking of selling the capri, c plate 2.8i but with 2l cosworth fitted. engine runs but needs setting up properly and needs a better exhaust. there is a mackled up exhaust on there but it sits very low. really clean shell with minimal welding just a slight scuff on passenger rear panel. car runs but since putting a new turbo on it the power is down a fair bit. still got a good 6 or so months mot. just wondered what sort of money its worth as need some funds for christmas and another toy

that was on my christmas list aswell, is it really that bad?

If I were you ,in your neck of the woods go and see steve scott @A1 rallysport before you completely fook your motor! He is on the A1 just before sandy,on the southbound carriageway . puddy oh dear, that doesnt sound good the problem is that i cant take the car anywhere as it is for fear of blowing it up, and the exhaust isnt legal its just a bodge until i get one made but i need the engine running right first. if i go down without the car, i just dont know what im on about and i end up confusing everybody Hire a trailer then,way cheaper than a blown cossie engine Thats the only problem with the internet,all this talk of easy conversions and 12 second quarters makes anybody think they can do it,unfortunately it ain't that simple in the real world mate. puddy tell me about it mate, its retro fords fault lol

If I were you ,in your neck of the woods go and see steve scott @A1 rallysport before you completely fook your motor! He is on the A1 just before sandy,on the southbound carriageway . puddy oh dear, that doesnt sound good the problem is that i cant take the car anywhere as it is for fear of blowing it up, and the exhaust isnt legal its just a bodge until i get one made but i need the engine running right first. if i go down without the car, i just dont know what im on about and i end up confusing everybody

the wastegate isnt stuck open, if anything it may be stuck closed?!? "preload the actuator" i bolted the actuator on an then wound the end as tight as it would get and then stretched the end onto the pivot, if thats what you mean when should the wastegate open, because it doesnt appear to be opening unless its only during driving. ive tried revving the hell out of it but it doesnt open, could this be the problem

after pressurising all the oil and blowing it straight out of my turbo on the capri i bought a recon t34 and fitted that instead of the t3 that was on it. fitted it all up and the actuator rod was way short( the one from the t3) so i had to loosen the end. now when i start it it sounds like a tank, it still drives but seems way down on power and the turbo is getting really hot, alot hotter then the old one did. havent really had a good look at everything just thought id see if anyone else had any ideas. the one that springs to mind is that i need a different actuator

wheels look spot on mate

definately square plate mate

cheers guys, do you all mean the pcv valve under the inlet? i have plumbed this into the inlet manifold to one of the vacuum pipes. the catch tank im using at the minute is a fanta bottle with lots of holes in it, but i will get one if thats what causing the problem. its just a temporary thing. once its running again ill buy everyone drinks

100% agreed, the breather from the rocker shouldnt go down to the sump...vent em both to a catch tank. theres a valve on the side of the block (not sure if the YB has this but pintos do) if its stuck it will throw oil out the cam cover vent, mine did and i was loosing about a litre a mile, unstuck it and all is fine now. that sounds spot on mate, i lost a good litre within a mile of driving it through the breather. where abouts is this valve mate

the problem i have now is that the seals on the turbo are knackered, so if i fill it up with oil and turn it over again is it gonna just blow all the oil straight though it again or if i put a new turbo on is it gonna blow that seal and leave me with 2 poorley turbos

i bought the engine last year off ebay and its been sat in my garage on a stand since a month ago. it was supposed to have had a rebuild, everything looked new on it, new gaskets, core plugs filters and leads etc. i took a mate with me and we heard the engine running and it sounded sweet, no smoke or anything. it worked fine before i plumbed the breather pipe from the rocker cover into the sump, there was just oil coming from the breather. would it be because the engine has been sat? is there any way of testing the engine without fitting a new turbo as i dont want to blow the seals on another turbo?

ive had trouble recently with the turbo leaking oil into the exhaust and intercooler on a cossie yb. it was fine when i first took it out but leaked oil from the rocker cover breather, so i put a return on this pipe to return to the sump. when i next took it out the exhaust filled with oil and i had oil leaking where the turbo meets the compressor housing. i took the turbo uff and cleaned it all up aswell as the exhaust and intercooler and all the pipework. i also removed the return to the sump from the breather, and just put this into a catch tank of sorts so it was still breathing but would catch the oil. when i started it up there was bubbling for a couple of seconds and then a loud pop which has just emptied all the oil in the engine through the seal from the turbo to the compressor housing. it didnt leak, it emptied in a couple of seconds as if i had just dropped the sump off. i have ordered a new turbo which will be here weekend but i dont want to refit the new one for it be exactly the same. i was trying to get it running so i could do a pressure test, but it would only idle for 30 seconds before emptying the oil. any ideas or suggestions would be great and greatly appreciated

great pics sam, looked like i missed another goodun

thanks mate ill have a look

thanks mate, could it just be a blocked return pipe then, even the air filter has oil in it

just put a cossie into the capri and have been out testing it up and around the close. although it was alot of fun i did notice a fair amount of smoke coming from the exhaust, this gets alot worse when the revs rise above 2k. on closer inspection the manifold is covered in oil and so is the intercooler . im assuming that i need a new turbo lol. is there anywhere that does recon turbos on an exchange basis or is it cheaper to have a look on ebay? is it somthing i could of done in less than 5 miles driving it, or plumbing in somthing wrong or was i sold a dead turbo?