Roops

That's exactly what I will try. Great minds..........

I am pretty sure that the outlet is not 1/2 unf 20. I bought a hose tail that was 1/2 unf 20 and it doesn't fit, it goes about a thread and a bit before it gets tight. Looking and thinking and measuring multiple times, I am starting to think that they outlet may M12. The Thread pitch matches 1.25mm, which is right for an M12 Bolt/Tube Nut. Also, the MK2's were assembled in Germany, they have been metric since before the War, so suspect that they connectors are more likely to be metric. Of course, there is always the chance that a few old tanks were put together with imperial parts in the UK and then shipped out to Germany, so there is always a chance that some of them may be imperial. This at the moment is the straw that is breaking the camels back, I can't reassemble my tank without a decent tank outlet connector, so if anyone has any ideas they would be gratefully received. I really don't want to start with the welder as the chances of totally fluid proof welds are slim. TIA Roops

I just found this thread, that appears to answer my questions. I am looking at one of these http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/hose-tail-with-tube-olive-p-378.html to replace the old piece of hard plastic tube and olive arrangement. Anyone know if it will work ? TIA Roops

Nice one. That makes sense, I realise now that it actually doesn't matter what the book says, as long as 1 is at TDC and Rotor is pointing at No. 1 lead outlet on the dizzy. Many thanks.

So I figure before I fire up the old banger I should replace the timing belt. I have set the engine to TDC as far as I can see, valves on number 1 are closed, piston on 1 is right at the top, but the rotor arm is pointing 180 degrees out according to the good old Haynes manual. Now it is a while since I worked on a Pinto, so am I just going mad or is the book wrong.....see picture. Thanks in advance. Roops

Here's a my first try... Rgds Roops

Looks like I am going to require a new battery in the near future. The engine is a 2.1, with twin 48's, Kent RC1, high compression and a bit of a blighter to start (gear reduction starter also going to be purchased). Back in the day, the old Exide Tourqe Starters were the battery of choice. What do most people use these days ? TIA

Excellent. Thanks for the info. I will dismantle and clean the ignition switch as that sounds like the issue. I have nothing coming out of the switch at all, in any of the key positions. Will also go over the earths, I figured these would require attention after the paint job.

Thanks chaps good to know. Starting to suspect that the ignition switch may be the cause of the issue. The car has been painted and I know the inside was very dusty after prep. I don't see any voltage on the blade connector for the dash when you turn the ignition on and the one working headlight goes very dim. I have the same voltage coming into the switch as the battery is outputting. Should either of the other two connections on the switch output power once the switch is turned. That's what logic tells me should happen.......

Thanks very much. One final question. The Starter motor is not on the car (Going to install a gear reduction starter). So the main feed to it and Solenoid connections are not attached. Basically leaving the circuit open. Is this likely to cause strange results/readings if I am working on the other car electrics ? TIA

Does the ignition switch feed the dash ? RS2 MKII, I have voltage at the battery isolator, lights work but when I turn the key the lights dim and dash is dead. Strongly suspect a rogue earth somewhere, or something in the dash draining the juice. Is this possible ? TIA

Leave as is. For me "Old School" will always be the rear wheel drive cars. There was a seed change at Ford when they went front wheel drive . Anything that had the original configuration are "Old School" to me, irrespective of manufacturing date.

Ok, so the plan is to take my former full Race RS2 to the ring next year. The car will need to be road legal to use on the ring and I was careful when I built it that I left enough bits and pieces around so that it could still get it back to a road legal state. However, what's the deal these days with MOT's ? The car is caged, has race seats and harnesses, assume that all lights will work and that wipers, washers and horn will also work. Anything else that's likely to be an issue ? I heard that adjustable TCA's are a no no, is this correct ? TIA Roops