paul capri

thanks for your help guys. Yeah being 20 isn't ideal but if necessary I would buy the car and keep it till I'm 21, then I should be able to get cover. I've already driven it as the guy had a traders policy, awesome car and well worth the expense and the wait though

bell, admiral, and elephant are the same company, i found admiral to be the cheapest though, £800 odd on a 2.8 with 2yrs ncb and a CD10 (3 points)

Right im looking to buy a capri which has been converted to sierra indepandant rear and sierra front suspension too, and it has a yb engine. basically its a sierra cosworth but in a capri. The car has been changed from a 2.8 to a 2.0 on the log book but im worried that it needs an idependant check or VIC because otherwise if I insured it and god forbid, crashed it, then the insurer would look at it and say their not paying out because essentially its not a capri (which is what I would have insured it as) and then id be in big trouble. I'm wondering if it would be put on a Q plate though if it where checked???? just looking for advice from people that have done a conversion like this??? Cheers.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Capri-MK1-Ne ... 48385d63fc

I realise this has gone off topic but what management did he use on the pinto turbo?

bump ??

can anyone shed any more light on the problem?

yeah they are a larger diameter anyway. I would happily change the top mounts to suit the dampers, that way I havn't lost out and I can use the uprated ones but every top mount I've looked at is designed to fit the round type insert

why do things always have to be so fcuking awkward? one of the damper inserts in my 2.0 capri struts had blown so I decided to replace them both with KYB uprated ones. I bought them on ebay and left feedback before checking they where right, and as sods law would have it, there wrong and he hasn't accepted my return.... £65 spent on some mystery dampers?!?! So in the attempt to get the car sorted over the long weekend I bought an original Boge damper (just the one) from ebay to replace the blown damper. However.... its the same as the KYB ones,.... WRONG?! Basically the problem is that the top of the metal stantion has flats on it for its full length but the original one I've taken off the car only has flats at the bottom, about 3mm in depth, and the rest is round, so my top mounts dont fit over either of the new dampers!!! Do I have the wrong top mounts or are both types of damper insert I've bought wrong?

greenstuff pads are a good compromise for track and road. The problem with red and yellow is they only work well when theres loads of heat in them. If you where driving around town or on the motorway and hadn't used the brakes in a few miles, you wouldn't be able to stop very well. Personally I'd get both types and swap them over for normal use and track days, doesn't take 5 minites with those mondog calipers, just undo the sliders and take the caliper off, then change the pads on the carrier.

"how much fun is this thing?!"

ahh that sounds cool. I was wondering what he'd do with the rear end of the car. It seems there aren't any off the shelf options for capris but I'm not afraid of adapting escort kits

Recently reviewed in retro ford, the conclusion was that its brilliant! Where would I buy one? I know its designed for escorts but it would be a good start for my capri

hopefully wont be anything serious tom. Theres not alot to go wrong with a carbed pinto If its still running with a points dizzy then its likely to be the condensor.

make sure if it's over-fueling you get it re-jetted asap. I ran a 38dgas on my 2.0 pinto and it still had 3.0 jets in it. The engine was mint, had only 40'000 miles on it, but because it over-fueled so much it was washing the bores and caused the rings to stop sealing over the space of about 2 months

Just giving my capri its second freshen up after having used it daily for 2 years. I had originally used black waxoyl underneath but its all washed off inside the rear arches and - on one bit of the chassis rail that was mint before - its actually started to rust, while coated in waxoyl! Also I get fed up of getting covered in the stuff when you're underneath the car working on it, so basically want to know what's the best thing to use to rust proof and paint underneath the car that won't come off! The car is white so it will need to be black underneath, can't really use body colour, I'd never keep it clean!

seems logical. I'll give that a try if I get chance through the week, if not then saturday. cheers for your help guys

The bias valve is a manual type one, just has a knob that you get 8 turns on. Its a landrover master cylinder with 2 outlets, one is split right at the master cylinder itself with a T-piece to feed both the fronts. There is a single hose which feeds the rears, this is where i've put the bias valve in. I split the rear hose with another T-piece where the O/S flexi mounts. I then ran a separate copper pipe over the prop tunnel and used another braided hose for the N/S calliper. (rather than a copper pipe over the axle which doesn't allow you to bleed the calipers separatly). Brake dust.... that reminds me. The N/S front wheel (which usually locks) has become black after a week. The O/S front wheel is nigh on clean! the rear wheels are equally dirty though. Does any one else recon that if you kink a braided hose you automatically f*uck it then? I can't think of anything else? Help me im looking at e30 bmws again!!

Collapsed flexi hose.... when I was sorting something out with the brakes i dropped a caliper while it was attatched to the flexi which kinked it. Didn't think anything of it. I didn't think it could cause a problem? you might be onto something there. Will swap it over and see.

Checked tyre pressures which are fine. The steering rack and track rod ends are only a few months old. The track control arms are fine, they are also mounted on polybushes which are about a year old. The tyres can't touch the rim even in car parks etc. I rolled the lip round and have run it on the correct width spacers so even though the wheels are 16x8s I've got plenty of clearance. When you brake you dont get any steering wheel wobble, it just sends the car all over the place, however after trying to stop it a few times, a slight shake of the steering wheel does seem to develop, with and without the brakes applied. the car is dangerous really, someone pulled out straight in front of me last night on a narrow road and how i kept it out of the ditch when the nearside wheel locked up I don't know. Oh and the bias is only in the rear line and i've got it wound nearly all the way out at the moment, it's certainly the fronts which are causing all the problems.

okay I dont know if i've got this is the wrong section but I thought if i put it in here then most people will see it I've done the gtr 280 brake kit conversion on my capri which is 280mm front discs on monde0 calipers and rear cossy discs and calipers, I've used new discs, pads, mastercylinder, copper pipes, braided flexi hoses, bias valve and I rebuilt the front callipers with new seals. I've pressure bled the whole system and the pedal feels great, but when you actually brake its just scary! it pulls on one way, then the other, and locks either of the front wheels even from like 60mph! I took the front callipers off earlier to check that the pistons move freely which they do, cleaned it all up, re-bled the front and it does the same thing! Any ideas?

fixed or reclining? i had some cobra daytona reclining buckets in my capri, comfier than most and held you in bloody well. Changed to a 2.8 recaro interior now though

yeah its alright if the winning bid was made days before the auction ends, but considering he waited until about 30 seconds from the end to bid and then didn't bother to pay, and he still hasn't paid or replied to my emails!! In my experience if they havn't paid in 2 days they won't at all. RS2000 alloy sump anyone?

yeah, the seller cant raise an unpaid item strike until 4 days after someone bought an rs2000 sump off me which was won midday on saturday, he bidden minutes before the end of the auction and he still hasn't paid for it. so f*ucking irritating!!!!!! Must admit i would have raised an unpaid item strike by now if i could. If he has problems paying for it then EMAIL ME!! not hard. sorry ebay is abit of a sore subject at the moment, the last THREE things in a row ive sold the buyers have backed out on!!!

i thought you where only swapping the cam tom? u dont have to run it in unless the bottom end has been rebuilt... well thats me anyway, when I've swapped cams they get death out of the end of the driveway!