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Posted

i think its thigns like little bracing brackets round suspension and stuff but most people say you dont need it and its really only the 'originality police' that seem to care :lol:

Posted

i wonder what the idea of the holes in the floor are all about? :?

is there also a different chassis number for a original mexico? if so can explain this??

Guest MK1gaz
Posted
how would you be abl to tell a type 49 shell from looking, is there any drastic things that stand out easily? thanks
Usually twice as rusty and crashed more often than an 1100 bodyshell !!!!!!!! :wink:
Posted
how would you be abl to tell a type 49 shell from looking, is there any drastic things that stand out easily? thanks
Usually twice as rusty and crashed more often than an 1100 bodyshell !!!!!!!! :wink:

 

Helpful as ever I see Gaz :roll:

 

It is important if you're buying a Mexico that it has a genuine type 49 shell, as the car's value will plummet without it. Some will argue that the differences are unimportant, with the exception of the anti tramp bars and one or two bits of stiffening, they're probably right. However, the values that AVO escorts are commanding over and above "standard" ones make it important to know that you're buying the genuine article if you are paying the premium that is so frequently asked for them.

 

There are a number of pointers to look for.

 

You're looking for it being what's called a type 49 shell, but the first places to look are the body and chassis plate, the chassis plate will be left of centre on the slam panel and should start with the letters BFAT, the body plate will be right of centre on the slam panel and will have the letters AVO and the colour on it about 3 lines down.

 

Next look in the boot or under the boot floor, you're looking for at minimum a row of bolts coming through the centre of the boot floor, if it's an early car there may be a stone deflector mounted on these bolts, but don't worry if it's not there as they weren't fitted later on and are hard to get hold of so if it's rotted away it may not have been replaced.

 

bootfloor.jpg

 

Then look at the axle, you should have anti tramp bars mounted to brackets on the top of it. These run forward and attach to mounting points at the end of the chassis rails. You can just see the start of them in this shot of mine

 

rearaxle.jpg

 

And here they are running forward to the chassis rail (top of the picture)

 

Antitramp.jpg

 

And here's a shot of the anti tramp bar mounting bracket that should be on the chassis rail (nearest the camera)

 

Mike-CarShow007.jpg

 

Inside the car look for evidence that it had a 6 clock dash from new, if the dash mounting panel has been cut to change from a 2 clock dash to a 6 clock one this is sure evidence of a reshell / replica.

 

At the front end the strut tops should have double plates on them and additional stiffening on the inner wings under the arches.

 

imgDscf0018.jpg

 

Hope this helps

Posted

As vista said you need to be sure at what your looking at is genuine,100% sure :wink: mine is a replica mex from an 1100 base model & has all the tramp bars,skid plates,flitch plates,top plates,six clock 140mph dash & all the other bits to bring it up to type 49 spec. It does all that an avo shell will do & no-one has ever said it is not a real mex. But it will never fetch the price of a genuine avo shell so do be sure that what your buying is really what you want :thumbsup:

Guest MK1gaz
Posted
Or you can buy all those bits for £50 at car shows :mrgreen:

 

I've heard you can buy good Hi torque starter motors too :lol:

They're £200+ and only last 5 mins whereas a set of radius arm brackets and top plates will last years if you don't get them wet !!!!!!!! :shock:

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