Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

it may make me sound stupid but this is the first time im tackling bodywork on my own, so can someone tell me what grade sandpaper to use on car bodyfiller and on an rs2000 nosecone. Also is it ok to spray rattle can primer on the car when im gonna get the car sprayed in 2pak paint or do i need special primer??

cheeRS

Posted

use rough(40-80) to shape it.

 

then use finer to= finish it (140-180)

 

block with 240+ after primer

 

plastic primer on plastics (although a lot of plastic primer is quite shit)

 

etch primer for bare metal

 

any other primer over that

Posted

you dont do it by hand you use a flat block, it evens the pressure out so you geta nice flat finish

Posted

he means when you flat the primer use a rubbing block on the flat surfaces to help flatten out any light ripples in the primer.A two pack primer is best really as the other celluose types tend to sink after a while.Basicly it looks fine in primer and in paint but six months after the primer can sink into the repairs and filler a little and show up the scratch marks again. You would get away with small areas with it at home as its thick it doesnt throw up a lot of overspray.Top tip ,on sides of cars and repairs ,when your primer has dried spray a mist (speckled ) coat of matt black areosol on the surface as a guide coat we call it.When you rub this down it highlights all the scratchs in the primer ripples pinholes etc and shows you that you have rubbed it all down right because if you miss any bits they will be black :) for good results on the sides of cars to avoid ripples as you look along the side of the car in the repair filler etc get a rubbing block and flat the primer dry with 240 grit until all the guide coat is gone .Then reprime it again with another two or three coats.when dry spray black guide coat again and flat on a block with 400 grit paper dry again,then one more spray of black mist and then flat with water and wet and dry paper 800 grit that will give you a good finish.also when the side is wet wipe it clean and look along it as its shiny while wet you will see how straight the repair is and basicly how good it will look as if it had shiny paint on it. Treat any primer the same way.If its just a small bit then just wet flat the primer with 800 wet with a black mist coat.Only bother with the long winded method if its a repair on a door rear wing etc so the side of the car doesnt have those classic wobbly looking panels! You can rub edges and wheel archs with your hand ,its better as the block will rub through the primer on the edges if your not careful. :mrgreen:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...