A few tips.....

[DAZZA]

I get quite a few PM's asking pretty much similar things so heres some answers. Based on 1/43rd cars.

 

- When you intend to build a replica, look for as many key features of your intended subject as possible. For instance, dont buy a Mk1 with sqaure headlights just because its in the bargain bin, when your subject has round lights.... simple.

 

- To remove the shell from the chassis plate, the screws are located under the petrol tank on the rear and sump/cross member at the front, the flaps are easily removed with a flat precision screwdriver.

 

- I will only use Halfords spray paint. It has a perfect pressure and never clogs. Tamiya paints for are very thin and very expensive, airbrushing is another good option but is slow and labourios. Local motor factor paint just does not cut it, they spaltter and have to strong or to weak applications. You dont have to wet sand between coats, after primer and top coat just use a cutting compound and polish.

 

 

- For dished wheels on a 1/43rd, look for the 1/64th hot wheels porsche carrera (99p woolworths!) remove the spokes using a side cutter and sand the remain down with 400 grit paper. You can then remove the tyres from the 1/43 and use the standard steels or alloy equivalents which push in to the larger of the 2 step levels within the hot wheels tyre. To adjust the dish, keep or remove the inner tyre retaining fins on the 1/43rd rim. Although different scale sizes the Hot wheels tyres become dead ringer for 175/50's!

 

- After the above, the wider track of wheels will require the base/chassis plate to be shaped accordingly. I use a bench grinder to grind the existing wheel cut outs a little deeper.

 

- Lowering. Assuming your using the popular Vanguards range, the axles are held by 2 sprung rods. Using side cutters, simply pull them back of forwards out from the chassis plate. Glue a 1mm plastic strip to where the axle sits, I use strips opf old credit cards. This in effect lowers to an approx scale of 2".

 

- Interiors are in plastic and are very hard to lighten in colour, so ensure good prep with some 800 grit for the paint to stick.

 

- A great feature is to the subjects number plate which measures approximately 12mm by 3mm. Always do this on the computer down to small font, hand written looks a little ropey.

 

- Key do's and donts.

- Always try to keep things to scale, wheels, tyres, spotlights,rollcage diameters, 1/43 parts, dont always look good on other 43rd models.

-try to get things like stripes and logos form shops or graphics companies where you can, im looking to get some 1/43 mex and RS stripes done in bulk.

-Although I really dont like 1/18th stuff, the detail can be extended to engine swaps and colour coded suspension. "Eckie" is your man on this.

- Try to mount in a display box with a related theme, grass tarmac etc if its a job, present or gift.

- Paint. Always build about 2 to 3 coats of "dusting" of primer and top coat before laying down a wet coat.

 

Hope this has answered some questions.

[mk1super]

If i may add to what dazza has said.

 

On the paint matter nitromors and a wire brush are fab for removing the paint the car already wears. So thanks to Antz for that tip. And if you want colours such as Vista orange or Signal yellow etc you may have to ask Halfords to mix these up for you.

 

And just like a real car prep is everything, i cut corrners once to speed up a build and ruined a door for one model. so take your time.

 

As for detailing of suspension i use Tamiya acrilic paints and as fine a brush as i can get, sometimes cut down brushes to make them finer and bind em up with super glue for very fine detail work.

 

Undersides of cars i plastic prime then spray body colour.

Door cards get the same treatment then masked off and hand painted semi gloss black, as ive found it looks alot like real door cards.

 

Oh and Suspension is a gently prize apart by hand then glue back together, loctite used sparcely ive found works best.

[mr squidian]

top tips lads!