Another paint question

[jimbo]

I would bet a pint on this question having been asked before......Here's the situation.

 

Errrrrmmmm......

 

I've just removed and treated rust, applied porous filler and primer and all the while I'm throwing water at it. Then I seal the whole lot in with some Signal Yellow.....

 

Is this not just asking it to rust through again?

 

Is this crazyness just to keep Isopon in business, or have I missed something.

 

I know that in time I gotta weld some metal in there, but even then with all the TIG practice in the world, I'm gonna have to get the porous stuff out again. So the same applies.

 

Somebody end this confusion for me please

[aden]

what do you mean throwing water at it mate?

[aden]

do you mean wet flatting?

[Rick]

its all good mate as long as the moisture doesnt get back to metal it shouldnt rot through, unless youve filled a hole with filler without backing it up with fibreglass resin or even better, metal

[jimbo]

do you mean wet flatting?

 

That's what I mean.....

 

I see what you mean about holes. A wing repair with filler is just like wedging in a solid sponge, I guess.

 

It is just a case of only wetting it as much as need be to do the job - i.e. put water on the wet & dry not the repair.

 

Also, I guess I should just allow the repair a bit of drying time before applying the paint, yes?

[Rick]

if its in the slightest bit damp mate paint wont take to it anyway. get a heater/hairdryer or whatever on your panel before you paint and degrease it, you shouldnt have nay probs then

[Mrs O/H/C]

you should dry flat filler......never ever wet flat filler

 

also if poss you should dry flat the car !!

[over_head_cam]

As above is ideal I must admit, I'm a wet-flatter though, but deffo not on filler

 

The primer is not as pourus as a sponge and wont take on water like filler would if it was wet. As long as it's all perfectly dry before it's painted, it will be fine

[harris horse power]

you should dry flat the filler , then to get rid of the pin holes (sponger effect) you need to give the repair a few coats of high build 2pac primer. wet flatting the primer is fine but you need to block the 2pac primer down first to get rid of ripples etc, then wet flat it.

 

simon

[jimbo]

I'm so naive with all this stuff.......

 

2pac primer? I'm just using some rattle can stuff for these repairs. Can I get 2pac in cans, or is that a spray booth job?

[aden]

you can buy 2 pac (or 2k) primer in rattle can, but if you only doing a small repair, then a normal can from halfords or whereever will do, rub the filler dowm dry working up to about 240 grade paper, then put lots of coats of primer on, when this is completely dry then wet flat back with 600 or 800 wet and dry paper, dry it off completely then put your top coat on, you can then even wet flat the top coat with 1200 grade wet and dry paper and give it a good t cut, BUT be very careful not to go through the paint! im sure the bodywork boys will tell you the pro way of doing it but this way works for me

unless you have cut the rotten metalwork completely out and replaced with new, then im afraid it will come back eventually, but if you look after it it will last, phew hope that makes sense after all that

[Rick]

the beauty of 2k stuff is it goes on nice and thick and gives you a good layer to work with wheras rattle can stuff is like piss water.

 

depends of the job your doin. rattle cans are ok for small jobs. iv just used some rattle can white primer on me van its pretty crap but does the job

[deluxemk1]

As said above I guess never wet flatt filler.Dry blocking primer is the right way and final flatting can be done dry with a dry flatting system or wet. I got to be honest I do tend to wet flat the last stage on primer with 800 . It is a good idea to make sure each panel is dryed as quick as possible after its flatted and clean with some panel wipe. I tend to run a bake on my booth if its a whole car flatted to ensure no moisture is present before top coat stages. If you are doing it at home use a good cellulose high build primer mix it 60 percent primer 40 per cent thinner. If you only want to use an aerosol look at your paint factors or I belive Halfords actually sell it now UPOL HIGH 5 high build primer in a can not 2 pack but good for small repairs and better than the mickey mouse ones that are normally for sale in there. If youve got any bare metal it will need a etch primer first or it wont stick.Look for another aerosol can in the same rang prob next to the other one in halfords called UPOL ACID 8 thaey should do you .As far as keeping the panel damp free just put a heat gun on it (NINE QUID FROM MACHINE MART) to ensure all the damp is out

[over_head_cam]

I've been using the Upol rattle cans on KJ's Escort with excellent results

 

The etch is quite fumey though so remember well ventilated area is good