Anyone any good about car electrics

[greenfordpop]

First time out for a propper drive in my Pop since i replaced the engine. Then i broke down near Weymouth on bank holiday Monday 50+ miles from home and had to be recovered It turned out to be the coil which was giving out a weak spark, enough spark to let the engine idle, but not enough to pull away, it would just die. On closer look today its got a Ballast Ignition Coil which for some reason has bypassed the Ballast resistor (when replacing the engine) which i guess is why the coil broke down. I`ve connected it all back up and it now seams to run fine.

Does anyone know if i've damaged the coil or could i use a non Ballast Ignition Coil and bypass the Ballast resistor? As the Ballast resistor gets very hot or is that normal?

greenfordpop AKA Barry

[Stiggy]

Ballast resistors can be a pain, general idea was for extra boost when cranking, extra spark when cold, as soon as starter is released coil drops back to ballasted voltage some are 7 volt and 9 IIRC but its been 18 years since I faffed with old time stuff.

 

May have damaged it, may not sorry.

[Savvi]

When you relplaced the engine did you put the wires on the starter soleniod the same way as they cam off ?

 

The idea as said was to increase the spark when cold to give a better spark and also allow the car to run on a lower voltage with normal running which helped protect the points condensor etc.

 

Yes the coil will get warm when engine running as it take a big charge let lets it go again to create your spark, however if it gets too hot it will break down and cause similar problems to what you described.

 

Personally i would tend to change the coil now you have had problems if not using in the winter i guess a non ballest type by passed would surfice, or better still go for a electronic ignition kit which will give you the correct coil and a better system.

 

Bigdaz on here just bought a complete kit for £150 and fitted himself with no problems, he couldn't believe the differance it made.