Rebuilding 1600 xflow engine for MK2 fordor

[mafijoosi93]

Sers,

I'm from Germany and want to rebuild an 1600 xflow which I've bought recently.

Plan for the winter/spring:

-Get the old 1300 with 4 speed box out of the car

-AVO adjustable in the front and cutting the Springs

-vented disks and big drums

-PU bushes

-T9 Gearbox

 

The plan for the Engine:

-getting the head machined (unleaded and ported, stronger springs) -> a Friend does that

-rebore the Block and new pistons.

-bring the pistons and con rods to same weight and balance the con rods

 

Now my questions for you:

 

I would like to rev the engine quite a bit, if possible 7k. Power output maybe 100-110HP.

Do I have to use ARP bolts on head, mains and con rod?

Do I have to balance the crankshaft with the fly wheel and then with the con rods and pistons (not with exactly them, but with their weight. I hope, you know what I mean )

Do I have to get HD bearings and a double thiming chain?

Can I rev it up to 7k with the standard valve train( cam, follower etc)? I'm not asking for high power output at 7k, but for the ability to get there =)

 

 

I'm asking, because my budget is a little bit small (I study and work only in the holidays...), but I want to do it properly. 

 

Thanks!

[Fiesta Steve]

Hi, you do not need arp bolts for that spec, you do not need hdbearings or double width chain.

Save your money for nicer things..

[rallyesport04]

i agree with steve to rev to 7k you can run standard equipment it will however rev alot freely if you lighten the flywheel and balance the crankshaft and flywheel together   make sure the pistons and conrods all weigh the same too it will make a very noticeable differance in how freely it will rev

[mafijoosi93]

Thank you, that was exactly the thing I wanted to hear! =)

Shall I use new bolts? I heared, that the Kent doesn't use expansion bolts and you can use them several times.

How do I lighten the fly wheel? by drilling it where the clutch is pressed against or making holes in the outer part? sry, I can't say it better.

 

 

Here are two pictures of the car and the engine (sorry für bad quality, Samsung cell phone with "dust camera"...)

 

The 1600 Kent with 9" brakes and some other stuff in the trunk of a Micra.

It looks like a sport boat because of another Kent in the trunk Normally its not that bad

That was my first long trip, almost 600 miles (1000km) in 3 days.

 

Good night!

[Fiesta Steve]

You just need to get some meat off of the back of the flywheel. You need to take it to someone who knows what they are doing really..

[rallyesport04]

if you have a 1300 remove the pistons an put them in the 1600 it will give you higher compression ratio about 10:1 it will unlock even more power for free  i reused my bolts many times with no problems one engine i had was very high compression an gave no problems if you can afford a cam like a kent cam kc234 you will have a liverly little x flow

[mafijoosi93]

Hi,

using the 1300 pistons won't be the best thing, because I think they are worn. I had 6-8 Bar (17-23psi I think) with a good compression tester in my 1300LC engine and I don't want to use the pistons of my HC Sport because of uncontrolled explosions of the gas (do you call it knocking?)

 

Are the holes for the valves smaller in the 1300 pistons than in the 1600?

 

A good cam would be very nice, but in Germany there are relatively strickt emission laws. I have to have less than 3% CO in idle. Will I get this with the kc234? Is there a little bit more tame cam on the market?

 

Btw: I have to go to an Engineer to get the engine registered in the car (is the Shell durable enough, are the emissions lower with the new engine and such bullsh**). If it sounds like a baby on crack I will have a little problem

 

sorry for giving the informations bit by bit, but sometimes you don't think about everything at the same time =)

Tanks!

[mafijoosi93]

Hi,

Another question occured:

How much reving will the original oil pump endure?

[DT36]

Hi,

using the 1300 pistons won't be the best thing, because I think they are worn. I had 6-8 Bar (17-23psi I think) with a good compression tester in my 1300LC engine and I don't want to use the pistons of my HC Sport because of uncontrolled explosions of the gas (do you call it knocking?)

 

Are the holes for the valves smaller in the 1300 pistons than in the 1600?

 

A good cam would be very nice, but in Germany there are relatively strickt emission laws. I have to have less than 3% CO in idle. Will I get this with the kc234? Is there a little bit more tame cam on the market?

 

Btw: I have to go to an Engineer to get the engine registered in the car (is the Shell durable enough, are the emissions lower with the new engine and such bullsh**). If it sounds like a baby on crack I will have a little problem

 

sorry for giving the informations bit by bit, but sometimes you don't think about everything at the same time =)

Tanks!

 

I would think it's more likely that the piston rings and bore wear are giving the low compression, rather than worn pistons.

[mafijoosi93]

Ok, I will have another look at that. The worn pistons were my first impression after stripping the 1300 GT, but i haven't measured them. Maybe I can do that after Christmas. I don't own proper measuring instruments for that kind of usage. But my university does =)

[DT36]

Ok, I will have another look at that. The worn pistons were my first impression after stripping the 1300 GT, but i haven't measured them. Maybe I can do that after Christmas. I don't own proper measuring instruments for that kind of usage. But my university does =)

 

Ok, I will have another look at that. The worn pistons were my first impression after stripping the 1300 GT, but i haven't measured them. Maybe I can do that after Christmas. I don't own proper measuring instruments for that kind of usage. But my university does =)

Go for a compression test, both wet and dry. If the compression raises when you squirt some oil into the bore then it is likely that your rings or bore are worn. If the compression doesn't raise, then this points towards valves not sealing properly.