Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all. I seen lots of videos of OSF's smoking tyres and nailing it up the strip. Now my car is running good and ran pretty much perfect last summer with a little road trip to the pod and was my run around on days off for a month or 2 when i sold my daily. Also after having a few other cars with LSD and probably the fact mine is quite low geared and maybe not as tight as new cars i had i find it annoying how easy it spins one wheel.

 

I have now decided its finally time to do a few upgrades to the drive train. Clutch back is all standard 1300e so is 1300GT/sport box dif prop etc. But powered by a engine more and double the original power 150-155BHP depending on rollers with AP clutch and sticky when warm CR500 Avon's. So my thoughts are the bits between the clutch and tyres are probably a weak link. And when axle is down while fitting new leafs and tramp bars may aswell do it all at once.

 

Gearbox wise im not sure if i want to go the 5 speed route or not but does seem easy option for a tuff gear box and allows me to keep dif ratio so no change to low end with advantage of over drive on motorway. Other option i guess is a RS2000 or Mex box but hardly easy to find, 1600sport box would only be a little stronger than mine and i already have one n the garage from a low millage 1700 caterham road car that i got cheap after thinking my box was on way out as crunches 2nd and pops out of 3rd when really hot. Also have a type 9 in my caterham and gets quite a bit of abuse with no issues. 

 

Prop thinking probs best to change it or give it a refurb as rubber doughnut is probally quite worn along with UJ. then Replace dif bolts with some new tuffer nuts and bolts.

 

DIf i was thinking of going down the 3J route with my ratio as hearing on Retards Club good things about them on Team Ashton and Harris pages. and while there is it worth doing the half shafts?  I have a ZF LSD in the 7" in my caterham and yes it needs a rubuild every few years but i like the way it locks compared to a ATB difed caterham i drove. so even though a road car havnt thought about a ATB.

 

Dont get me wrong its not a drag car or a Drift car and i wont be smoking my tyres anywhere near as much as some in OSF do, but thought just throwing in a LSD and giving it some is only going to result in 40 year old parts breaking. Also thinking would rather just do the job once, yes it works out expensive but hopefully should last with out breakages for a while.

 

What do you guys run on here? see plenty of 2.1 200BHP pinto powered cars smoking their tyres at most meets so guessing they are upgraded. 

Posted

I've got a 3j diff and half shafts in my anglia, I'd highly reccomend them! You could Proberly get away with just changing the diff but for what it's worth I'd fit the bigger shafts as well! A lot of the Harris cars are using these shafts with the big power pintos with no issues,

 

As for gearbox and axle ratio depends what you want from the car really again I've got a 4 speed in mine but it's aimed at drag racing and motorway driving can get a bit tedious, type 9 boxes are quite easy to get hold so that would be a cheap option if you still wanted the grunt down the bottom you could always go for a 4.1 or 4.4 cwp and with the 5th gear in the type 9 might be a bit more forgiving on the motorway

  • Like 1
Posted

It was cars like the Harris car i was thinking about. my thoughts where for the little extra cost I'm probs better fitting the shafts as well even though I'm probably far from the limit of what the standard ones can handle. Then thats the axle done.

 

Gear box is the one that I'm not sure about, i guess a 2000e or rs2000 box is the ideal upgrade for my 4 speed and i guess are as strong as a type 9 but are harder to find. then with a box change a new single piece prop would probably be a nice addition.

 

Why did you keep the 4speed? surly ratios would be similar in a type9 but with advantage of a extra gear? you using a RS2000 box?

Posted

I'm using a 2000e box as it bolted straight in to the anglia, it worked out more expensive to fit the type 9 and the ratios were slightly better in the 2000e, also something to think about is the 2000e bellhousing uses a hydraulic slave cylinder whereas rs and type 9 bellhousings use a cable to operate the clutch (however there are kits to convert both to hydraulic) just something to consider when pricing up options

 

downside to the 2000e is the gearlever is like stirring a bowl of porridge! And the 2 quickshift kits I found are both around £200 as opposed to £100 for a quaife quickshift for the rs box also the rs boxes have an ally tail housing which makes them lighter ! IMO I would go for an rs gearbox but both will be strong enough for what your using them for

 

Type 9 is Proberly more suited to road use but that's not what my cars for which is why I've stuck with the 4speed and personally I think x flows suit 4speed boxes

Posted

Give R.A.C.E a phone, they supply shafts for the Atlas which are the dogs danglies!! I assume they'll supply them for the English too. Try keeping your eyes peeled for a used straight cut 4 speed box, they don't go for huge money, around £500 will get you one. As for the diff, I've had a 3.79 with a 5 speed which was superb as an allrounder, and more recently a 4.1 with the 4 speed which was amazing for the B roads and traffic light GPs, but it was a right royal pain in the ass on the Motorways, anything above 50-60 mph and it was screaming it's tits off. I think a 3.9 with the 4 speed, or a 4.1 with the 5 speed would be a good compromise.

Posted

If you are thinking of going the 3J route James Harris at HPE is a supplier for there products, he built my diff for me with all new bearings really good service would highly reccomend

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...