BigBubba

Think they’re basically standard road pads with a jazzy name! If you’re looking for advice on pads, give George Snee a shout at roadtrackraceparts.com Completely unbiased advice, and steered me right trying to source pads for my gtr280 brakes recently.

The only place to get genuine ceramic coating that works is Zircotec, but it aint cheap!!! What are you needing done? Manifolds? Turbo manifold/down pipe? If it's just standard n/a manifolds i'd get good quality wrap and do it yourself. You can get DIY ceramic coating kits, which i've used before, but the results aren't great and it'll never perform the same as properly applied ceramic.

No mention of Track rod ends on the above list, have these been replaced? Might just be the image (or my dodgy eye sight!) but looks like the off side taper is bent???? Either way, it's a cheap one to eliminate.

Why not just replace them with standard ones? Adj TCAs are only any use if you plan on playing with geometry. No point splashing out 200 notes to run standard geometry.

Hmmmmm, you could be right there!! Definitely sidedraughts though!!!!

imho, dont waste your money on 40s, they are too small for a 2ltr Pinto. The max choke size is smaller than an inlet on the head. Save a wee bit longer and go for 45s. They'll support circa 190hp should you wish to increase performance in the future. I'd fit a 38 or bike carbs before 40s, but bike carb set up can be expensive if bought new. I ran a bike carb/megajolt set up on the Green RS in the pic for a while - all 2nd hand, and was well worth the coin. Ran like a sweetie, had circa 160hp and sounded the dogs balls on the cam. Previous car had 45s, RL31 cam and monster valves etc. 187hp, pulled like a train to 8000rpm and had a bark louder than a scrap yard rottweiller!!!!! Get yourself to a local Stock Car builder, they'll show you what kind of power can be produced on a stock carb!!!!! (with supporting mods obviously!)

You can do it using a set of old Lotus Esprit Turbo DCOEs. These were designed to be used with forced induction and will bolt onto a pinto DCOE manifold. All you need is a sealed plenum chamber, turbo, exhaust manifold and intercooller and away you go!!!!!!!!!

Hi Guys, Does anyone have any personal experience with any mappers in Scotland? Getting set to get the mapping done soon, and needing genuine input on who to trust on the rollers. I'm in Fife, so Performance HQ are near, and have heard mostly good things, but heard a rumour at the weekend that they've had a few blow ups on the rollers, so not sure now. AVA also have a good rep online, but looking for some feedback to help me make an informed decision. Any help is appreciated. Cheers G

Certainly looks like a heavy duty Atlas diff - maybe P100??? Have a look on Google images, you'll see plenty with tapered bearings. Not sure of the application though, early capri maybe??

Hi, are you running compression struts or an anti roll bar on the front? You could cure that by changing the length of your compression struts, or fit a twin cam arb - they have a slightly longer threaded part, so when you tighten it all up it gives you more caster.

Unless you have a tarmac rally car or circuit car don't bother!! They will have no effect on the "lightness" of the steering. You can buy 2 types, concentric or eccentric. Concentric has the bearing in the middle (standard), the eccentric has the bearing off centre, so you can alter camber and caster angles. As mentioned it's caster that affects the steerings ability to self centre. Too little caster gives the symptoms mentioned above. That's why drift cars run huge amounts of caster, to allow the wheel to essentially turn itself straight when they let go. The more the strut leans back means more castor, the more it leans forward means less.

I ran 180ilb 10.5" on AVO coilovers and had no issue with travel. Is the shock pictured the same as yours? Looks like a mega short insert, the pistons on mine are about double that length. Super stiff springs with that bad boy me thinks.

The other 2 tubes will be for water, some carbs had a water feed to stop icing etc.

Salmon pink is actually Signal Red, and I love it. If I could have another in any other colour, it would be Signal Red.

You can fit a little sleeve made from silicone hose where the spring is to stop the rattle. Mine drove me crazy too!!

Meant to add, if you're getting a single piece prop, avoid the Rally Design ones. I had a nightmare with stiff joints and balance issues. Go for one from Peter Lloyd or RACE etc. You'll pay more, but no issues. Nothing more annoying than bolting on a new prop, only to have to remove and refit loads of times.

Quaife ATB, standard shafts, 4.1:1 diff and you'll get away with the 4 speed if your a B road blaster. If you're doing a lot of A road stuff then get a 5 speed type 9, but they're not quite as straight forward to fit on a x flow i'm told. I ran a 4 speed with a 4.1:1 on a 170hp Pinto and it was fine on the rural lanes, but did get a bit nippy at 60/70 mph

Just do a search for Welding Cable , you wont go far wrong with that. Biggest issue is voltage drop because of the long leads. Bigger wire means less resistance, hence less voltage drop. I used to use a big ol' leisure battery in the boot when i was running a mega high compression pinto, but you should be fine. If the battery is goosed, by all means, get a larger one, but if you don't need to spend hard earned then happy days!!!!!

You don't really need a big battery unless you're running high compression or electronics etc imo, the gauge of cable you use will be more important when moving the battery to the rear.

Plenty have done it, but for me the tyre size never looks correct. They need stretched on a little. You may also need to roll the arch lips a little too, depending on ride height.

Hmmmmmm, good point. Seen plenty done, but not sure how Mr MOT tester would view it. Would they even notice?? Can't imagine a Mk2 front bumper would offer a pedestrian much impact protection anyway!!!

I love the 3rd picture. Slammed and de-bumpered, looks ace!! I can't leave anything anywhere near original for long though!!!!!!!

The space saver on the back spoils it though!!

Squires Brothers (R.A.C.E.) shafts are reputed to be the best out there. Never used them personally, but I know a couple of guys who race mk1s in the historic saloons and they both swear by them.

Yeah, had a Quaife in my old set up. It was a fantastic diff. I was running a 190 hp 2.1 Pinto, with a leaf sprung rear end and it handled like a dream. As you mentioned, I never had it on 3 wheels on the road though!! Always felt sure footed, and had no problem flinging it sideways either when provoked. Everyone seems to discount them, preferring a plate diff "'cause that's what the rally boys use". Sure, they use them because they spend a lot of time on loose surfaces and on 3 wheels, plus they can change ramp angles to suit surface conditions to change braking and understeer characteristics. Personally, I just want something that I can fit and forget. You'll never forget you have a plate diff fitted, because the constant banging and clunking at low speeds will remind you of that!!!!! It is a personal choice, but I would have another one in a heart beat.