BigBubba

No good for road engines apparently, causes a varnish build up on components. Who knows if it will actually cause any problems though, and how long it will take. Some guys dose their fuel with it, just to get the smell at combustion! Ok with carbs i assume, but dont fancy firing it through injectors! Are there any modern synthetic oils that smell nice when burned???????

Another vote for the Ferodos from me. Awesome stopping power.

My old RS was geared to do 140mph, and used to sit behind my mates Prodrive Catalunya Impreza all day long. That was a 2.1 with 45s and a 3.7 slipper. Pretty much balls out with 3 angle valve seats, huge valves, wire ringed block etc, was dyno proven at just under 180hp, but had loads of torque too. 115mph should be easily achievable. Decent spec around 150 at the flywheel and a 3.9 or 4.1 diff should do the trick. If you can find an old RS tuning guide - the Ford one, online, it has a wee graph showing final drive ratio, revs and speed.

If I remember right, photobucket has a menu which gives you the URL to copy/paste into your post. There's a few options though, Retards Club etc, so make sure you select the one compatible with forums etc. As for the car, just go the whole hog and turn it into a Mexico replica, or stick some arches on it and have a rally replica! Lots of guys would want to keep it unmolested, but I wouldn't be able to help myself!!!!!!!!

Heard Arrow Auto Engineers are pretty good when it comes to bias boxes. Was gonna use them myself, so if anyone has used them before I'd be grateful for any reports.

Modifying the crappy fabricated square turrets I bought to fit the shell!!! Radius for the inner wheel tub was miles away from being right.

Plate type definitely better for drifting and doing donuts, but it's still possible with an ATB. Crappy short clip, but check it out. Standard Pinto with ATB (Not mine)

Don't get me wrong Stiggy, you're totally right that if a wheel was to become airbourne then the torque biasing becomes an issue, hence why most, if not all rally prepped cars have plate diffs, because they spend a lot of time in the air and on loose surfaces. But there's far too many folk reading misleading posts online, basically trashing the Quaife ATB, saying it's effectively useless in RWD applications when they've never experienced the diff first hand. It's simply not true. I've used both, and found the ATB to be a fantastic product, very progressive, even with a 190hp Pinto. I've never had problems keeping both rear wheels on the road, and found it easy enough to slide about when provoked.

I hear this argument all the time, about lifting a wheel, and its very relevant if the car is used on stage or circuit, but how often have you lifted a rear wheel on the road? It only happens if you're banging over kerbs on track, a la BTCC. More often than not, a well set up tarmac car will cock a front wheel due to roll centre changes. I still say ATB for the road, plate for competition and 200+hp. There's no doubt that a well set up plate lsd is the ultimate set up, but for fit and forget, trouble free motoring, the Quaife has it beaten hands down imo.

Totally agree with JP, the plate diffs are great for competition, but setting ramp angles and preload is a total minefield, and can cause all sorts of issues on the road, as he said, locking the back end or pushing the car into understeer. Loads of people online hate the quaife atb with a passion 'cause they find it hard to drift with, but drifting doesn't make a car quick, grip does, and the quaife does that beautifully, without drama or smoking tyres.

Plated diffs like tran x or 3j are awesome for the track or competition and the grip is unbelievable, but can be annoying for road use, they tend to clunk and bang a lot when doing slow speed manoeuvres, they need set up correctly, and the clutch plates do wear out over time requiring a rebuild. Quaife atb is a great all rounder if track use is only occasional and it's mostly used on the road, it's quiet, it doesn't require setting up, and will never wear out so no costly rebuilds. Plated diffs give more grip on loose surfaces and snow/ice, and if you break a half shaft it'll get you home ATB diffs never lock, so on the loose stuff they act more like a standard open diff, and if you break a shaft you'll be phoning the AA for a lift home. Had a Quaife fitted to my old RS and found it to be excellent...... and lets face it, how often are you gonna drive on a gravel stage, or in 6" of snow?

Yoko 048, awesome in the dry, lethal in the wet!

Yeah, it's the guy who runs Caprisport.

Not fancy going fully mappable? I fitted Megajolt to mine and was ace. Relatively easy to install and use, and can be picked up pretty cheap 2nd hand. Omex, DTA and Emerald also do ignition only kit, and Chester Sportscars do a full kit too.

I want gold discount!!!!!!! ​ Needin heavy duty clubman 4 link kit and panhard rod kit.

U'll be able to get most stuff of good ol' fleabay, much cheapness. Most stuff can be worked around if the thieving sods get enough time, but hidden switches can be a right pain in the arse to locate! Used to have a fuel pump switch inside the filler flap of my dads old mk3 'tina!! You can even fit a second one wired in series on the dash, and mark it up as a heated rear screen!

Loads of small things you can do, removable steering wheel, wheel clamp, fuel shut off valve, hidden switch for ignition and or fuel pump, battery isolator, FIA type master switch etc. If they can't start it or steer it, it's not gonna be easy for the buggers to take it quickly. Cat 1 or 2 alarm/immobiliser would be an obvious choice, but due to the simple wiring of old Fords, they're actually pretty easy to get around.

I try to do as much myself as is possible, but I understand why people pay to have work done, and I find your honesty in that respect refreshing. I have taught myself to do most jobs, from spanner work to welding and painting, and have found the journey extremely satisfying, but this was born of necessity rather than choice, as I simply don't have the funds to pay for the endless amount of work involved in maintaining a classic Ford. If you can afford to have it done professionally, then why not? What really yanks my chain, is when guys claim to have done big fancy engine conversions, and intricate fabrication work all on their own in the small lock up beside their house, when in actual fact they have paid tens of thousands to have it done professionally. ( I know one guy personally, who claimed to have built this fantastic creation, with an all steel screamer of a turbo'd powerhouse, then later discovered he bought the shell ready converted in primer, and the engine was bought built up from a mutual friend! ) Really pi@@es me off!!!!

Haha! Should have became a journalist!!!!! Appreciate the comments guys!

That's what it's all about in my eyes. It wasn't that long ago that the thought of putting a Vauxhall engine in a Ford was a crime punishable by hanging! Now look at it! Some of the most successful Rally and drift classic Fords have been XE powered. Lately the most popular choice for competition is the Duratec, an engine designed by Mazda!!! Long live individuality, and keep pushing the boundaries!!!!!!!!

Very personal thing, classic car ownership. Some are purists who weep at the mere idea of straying from anything original, but for me, the term "original" means being unique, the first, to be inventive. I love classic Fords for the style, and the feel, the nostalgia of it all. I hate the poor performance however, and I have heavily modified all of my past Fords, and will continue to do so. My current RS has been modified in such a way to provoke opinion, many hate what i've done, while others applaud. That's the beauty of the Old Ford scene, it's constantly evolving. Don't get me wrong, I love admiring the standard "concours" cars, and gaze in awe of the commitment and labour involved in maintaining them, but for me it's all about the visceral experience. You just can't beat the whine of a straight cut 'box, the pop and spit of fuel stand off on a set of sidedraughts, the chirp of a compressor wheel as the boost slams against it. These are the things that keep the blood coursing through my veins, and the hair on my arm standing up. A beautifully restored, standard car may well be pretty, but sadly doesn't set the pulse racing.

Try Ears motorsport, or Camskil tyres, both had them for a good price a couple of months ago.

Rally Design do sell brake kits, but i'm certain the radial mount kit they supply is just a block of alloy that you have to machine yourself.

I think poly bushes are ok for the track, but for road use you cant beat new rubber bushes. I feel that lots of people, especially when it comes to Escorts, get caught up in the GRP4 madness, as I like to call it! You've got to have a 5 linked turreted back end, compression struts and roller top mounts, everything polybushed and rose jointed. Don't get me wrong, all this equipment has been proven in competition, but for a fast road car? 5 linked turreted rears are great if you're going over yumps in a welsh forest at 100mph, but is it required for a road car? No. The same applies to Polybushing etc, great on the silky smooth tarmac of a race track, but for the average pot hole infested carriageways of the UK? Will they sharpen the handling of the car? Undoubtedly, but they will also put unnecessary stresses on the shell. Competition cars are strengthened in order to absorb the shock etc, but the majority of ours aren't. If it's a road going car, I say leave 'em well alone! (sorry for the rant!) :big hug:

4 x Yokohama Peradas, custom alloy sump, and custom rear axle, oh and alloy fuel lines and fittings.