BigBubba

Just get a Quaife ATB and forget about ramp angles!!!! (that's sure to cause a riot!!!) Get that 3:54 diff ripped out while you're at it and stick a 3:9 in there, or a 4.1:1 if you've got a 5 speed box. Best performance upgrade you'll do, it'll feel like you've got 200 horses!!!!

Either will be fine for general use. Forget the rear only cage. With a Cossie lump in there, you want a full cage to stop the chassis flexing.

MX5 is probably heavier than a mk1 'tina. There's a lot of steel in those little convertibles. Power may well be an issue though, especially when it's easily extracted from a Zetec or XE. I say go for it if you like the idea of it, try and get a drive in an old mx5 first though to assess if the power delivery etc is appealing to you. You could always go mental and start bolting on throttle bodies or a supercharger!!!

Decambered springs work fine, you rarely have to make them flat. Getting someone to do it locally though can be a pain in the ass. Gartrac can do it for you for a fee. Beware though, some MOT testers don't like decambered springs, but half of them nowadays wouldn't know what a leaf spring is! Lowering blocks are easy, cheap and can be returned back to standard height simply. I've seen some guys weld box section onto the spring mount on the axle to lower it further, but I wouldn't bother with that. My RS in my sig pic is on -2" blocks with 146lb single leafs.

Can't imagine it'd be any worse than a Zetec/XE conversion. Especially if you are using both the engine and 'box. If your considering Mazda, it's gotta be a Duratec though!!!

Any old shite will do , most now use alloy tube so any thickness of steel will do the job.

If it's for road use stick to 180 to 200lb maximum, length depends on ride height, wheel size etc but on 13s 12" will be a good starting point I think. For the rear, see if you can pick up a good used set of mk2 Bilsteins (not sure if they fit a mk1), they're still great fast road shocks and you can get them for much cheapness. I just sold a good pair for £26 !!!!!!

Don't pay any attention to the photo on the link, the text states telescopic rear dampers not coilovers. If you want to run coilovers on the rear you will need to turret the back mounts and fit slipper springs etc. you'd be better off looking at converting the fronts yourself, £50 buys the kit, £40 for springs. A wee bit grinding and welding and it's job done. £150 will buy a pair of AVO adjustable rears or less than £100 for Spax. The kit you mentioned is pretty much bolt in, direct replacement - but NOT rear coil overs.

What exactly are you looking to buy? Front coil overs and rear shocks, or coil overs front and rear? A wee bit more info would be great before we can give our opinions/advice.

I hope she rebuilt it and fitted a lairy cam and 45s?? If not she's got a brass neck!! What Nissan is she wanting built? Tell me it's a balls out sx 200 drift machine!!

What about something like this? It's a RS X Pack decal. Available on Ebay. At least it's period correct??

A proper GRP4 mk2 with a Screaming millington diamond II. Either that or a Hathaway prepared Evolution RS200.

Thanks for the info, i'll store that for future reference!

You'll be struggling to buy a slide kit off the shelf, it'll have to be custom made and it'll cost mega bucks!! The nearest thing nowadays are roller barrel throttle bodies. What you could do however is fit a set of bike carbs like Kawasaki ZX9 - these are essentially slide throttle.

Have you considered just buying a shell? You'll get a tidy shell for that sort of cash, and the rest is easily bought used over a period of time. It'll take an age to do, but you'll be left with a cracker

World Cup x member was designed for use on the Safari cars etc to allow greater clearance between the sump and x member to avoid contact when going over rough terrain. TCA mounts are also in a slightly different position, altering camber angles. Of no real benefit on a road car.

Pretty much the same as all the rest. A lot of the Stockie F2 boys use ITG filters if that helps? Those guys are usually at the peak of Pinto tuning etc, and usually know their stuff.

Use 3mm line tape to get the contour around the lights etc and good old masking tape for the rest. Because the line tape is pvc you get a nice clean edge. A rattle can of Upol satin black will only be about a fiver, and will do a grand job.

Not sure about anywhere to drop in, try a bearing specialist maybe?

Have you tried taking the terminals off and giving them a good clean with emery cloth?

Lad points!!!! Classic!!!!

Sometimes when they are moulded the slit doesn't form - possibly cheaper to mould this way?. Does it have a groove along the bottom, inside? If so, just run a blade up it.

Yeah, easy to get good power from the XE. You can pick a Zetec up cheaper though and no distributor to faf around with!, so it's really down to preference. Fitting them's essentially the same, both require new engine mounts, bellhousing etc, but both are equally well catered for in terms of kit. With the XE you can use a manta sump etc, but these are getting like hens teeth so prices are climbing.

Grinder will work fine. You can also use a reciprocating saw if you're concerned about sparks. Plasma cutter is the way to go though, especially if it's irregular shapes - Try cutting out a circle with a grinder!!!!!! You can pick them up for reasonable money too. Loads of TIG/Plasma cutter combos for sale.