Tips on bare metal resto

[BTM_FDR]

Hi, I was wondering what is the best to put onto bare metal after doing welding etc, I've used etch primer and Zinc182 in an aerosol, is that stuff hardy enough to take primer and paint on top?

Or will it bubble through eventually?

 

thanks

[caprimk1v4]

Thing for me is, etch primers are Hygroscopic, they attract moisture out of the air, and this time of year the air is full of moisture, standard primers also are hygroscopic so unless a sealing top coat is applied you are attracting moisture to sit against your new metal.

[BTM_FDR]

Thanks for your input, so what would you use instead then?

[stephens_xpack]

a lot of decent info here, hope some of it helps.

 

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=5&start=0&sid=133a0f96caf06ffc0500bd7dc4a27fb5

[JP.]

Epoxy Primer or Wash Primer is the way to go.

Stop using rattle cans. Takes days with these temperatures to dry and not up to the job.  

HVLP spray guns are dirt cheap these days and only need about 2 - 2½ bar to work properly.

Youtube is full of seminars working with HVLP spray guns.

[BTM_FDR]

Okay mate thanks, I'll have to find these bits at the time of priming... I'll have to remove all the stuff on there back to metal again and prime with epoxy?

Then fill?

Then more primer

And paint?

[JP.]

Well, usually bare metal, then, epoxy or wash primer. bondo, spray filler or spray primer then lacquer. Usually you don't need to prime after spray filler unless you sanded through the filler.

 

New panels come often in a black transport paint. Take a piece of cloth with lacquer thinner, paint thinner and rub it over the transport paint. If it comes off, the whole panel has to be rubbed down to bare metal. If the thinner does nothing to the transport paint, you can leave it as it is.

 

After filler / primer you need to spray the car with lacquer within a week as bondo, fillers and primers are heavy hygroscopic and you don't want moisture under your paint.

 

Epoxy primers are not hygroscopic and can be left alone for ages even in the wet ( Epoxy has a water tight seal ).

 

If you don't want to rub your car down to bare metal, just clean all the rust spots and loose paint. Then cover the whole body in Epoxy primer. Epoxy primer acts as a paint sealer too so you wont get a reaction of the old paint to the new paint.

Let it dry for a few days preferred in a warm environment.

 

Lacquer depents on your wishes. Metalic and so on comes as a basecoat and needs to be sealed with clearcoat.

 

Base colour comes as a directgloss, just spray on and done or as a basecoat ( depending on the colour ) that needs to clearcoated to..

Lots of new colours are only available as a basecoat which need clearcoat. The clearcoat  acts as a hardener and sealer on a basecoat.

[BTM_FDR]

Amazing info JP

 

Thanks a lot!! Should make life easier

 

Very much appreciated

[LEONMEX]

I am in the middle of epoxy primer on my Mk1. I have bare metaled the car and it is off to the oven this week. Pros are as stated above it is not like primer and absorbs moisture and the green stuff I am using has a shine to it also so we can see any small dings we may miss with a matt primer finish.

I am filling over the top as I have bubble arched the car and or me it will give a better longer lasting finish.

[BTM_FDR]

Nice one Leon... the more info the better